Thread: Repair 107 year old sash cord

Hi Graham,

I can't see your photos, but I have repaired sash windows in the past. As with antique furniture repairs, I found it best to do the minimum absolutely necessary. Paraffin wax helps the windows run smoothly, even in weathered frames. Replacing the cord can be a balancing act, but, at least 20 years ago, good cotton cord was still available. I saw the result when people tried nylon and synthetic cord but it wasn't pretty. The synthetics are very sensitive to temperature and behave quite differently especially in the cold. Lumpy would be one word to describe using synthetic blind cord.

One of the issues is likely to be some rot in the joints. Consider using an epoxy timber preservative/hardener instead of cutting them open unless you are very expert in mouldings, glazing and joining. Th epoxy stinks so good ventilation is needed, but it can save a lot of pain.

Sash windows are great and can work well with a bit of care. Enjoy.

David

You need DaveTTC, calling Dave.....Sometimes his internet doesn't work so a PM might be best to get him when he rejoins the internet.

Replacing a sash cord is a straight forward job and in your case of a lower sash, it involves the least amount of work.
There are plenty of youtubes to tell you how to do it, and this one is alright, not great though:

The things to watch out for are:

1. Allow yourself plenty of time and start work early in the morning just in case you get stuck. I've replaced plenty of sash cords when I started it took half a day. Now I can do it in about half an hour.
2. Make sure you get the right diameter sash cord. You may also need the parting bead - the dividing bead that separate the two sashes. Measure all the sizes before going down to the timber yard. If you are careful or lucky, you may well be able to re-use the existing one. Also check if the pulley rotates freely and if it needs replacement. Also some galvanised nails wouldn't go astray. Get proper sash cords, no nylons. Bunnies have them.
3. You could either use a solid scraper (one that doesn't flex) or a butt chisel to pry out the stop bead. Right you have to learn how to use a chisel the ways that chippies do, hit it with a hammer and use it as a pry bar, not as some sort of paring tool like woodies do.
4. First take off the vertical stop bead on the side where you need to replace the sash cord. The stop bead is usually held by 3 nails, 1 in the middle and 1 near the top and 1 near the bottom. drive the chisel in close to the middle and slowly open up a wedge. keep going and remove the stop bead once its all loose
5. Once you remove the stop bead from one side, you should be able to slide the bottom sash out.
6. Quite often to get to the panel cover behind which the weights are located, you also need to remove the parting bead in the middle. The youtube shows a fairly loose parting bead, probably being removed many times. With many layers of paint, its difficult to get a scraper or chisel behind it and lever it out. The way I do it is first, I score the paint with a utility knife all around the joint to break the seal, then I drive a chisel to bite into the side of bead and slowly lever it out.
7. To find the nail that holds the panel cover together behind layers on paint, you might need a magnet or metal detector.
8. Use the existing sash cord, even if it is broken to work out how long your cord needs to be.
9. Tie a good knot, like a figure 8 knot to fix the cord to the weight.
10. Put the things back together and you're done.

By the way, don't caulk it like that guy did.

What Paul said perfectly but when removing the stop bead.
I insert two old paint scrapers then I force my chisel between them.
Saving bruising the timber.

Cheers Matt

Hi Graham,
From memory, Bunnings or any decent hardware store will/should have the cotton sash cord.
To replace the sash cord, you'll need to remove the window concerned. This involves removing the beading along the edge, inside the room, this is quite easy to remove, the hardest part is cutting the paint holding both parts together. From memory, I used a sharp knife, something like the ones with a disposable blade, or a proper Stanley knife, something that won't break. Use a broad chisel or similar to get between the beading and frame work, the nails will probably pull through the beading, so that's no biggie.
Once you've both sides of beading off, the window can be removed. The side that the cords still OK, will need to be cut, probably a 2 person job, unless you've a table or stand to support the window on. On both sides of the frame, at the bottom, there should be a piece of timber that pulls out, this is normally about 300 mm (12") long, it will/should have a 45 degree cut on the top, I think the top comes out, try tapping gently with a hammer on the bottom, you might need the knife again to sever the paint. Once these are out, the weights will be seen and can be removed.
Remove the old cord on the window, usually some galv headed clouts, place the new cord in position and carefully nail it back on, trying not to use the existing holes or break the glass. Put the cord through the pulleys at the top and put the window back in place, you'll need something to hold the window in the UP position. This is so the cord can be fixed to the end of the weights, without the support, it will be virtually impossible to do the next part. Pull the cord tight, make sure you don't pull so tight that the window support comes away, feed the cord through the top of the weight/s and tie off, I usually run the end of the cord through the eye of the knot again, so that it enlarges the knot and won't/can't be pulled through the eye in the weight. The weight should finish up about 25 mm (1") from the bottom of the casement. While the window is in the UP position, nail the beading back on, adjusting the beading as the window comes down, make sure it's not too tight that it jambs, or too loose that it rattles or becomes drafty. If it becomes sticky, rub some candle wax on the beading sides of the window.
Hope this helps.
Kryn

God I love old houses. How good is that window. Being a carpenter and working on a lot of old places like this you really appreciate what craftsmanship is. New houses have nothing on these old beauties.

Matt, would your chisel be a bench chisel, paring, mortise, firmer, butt or dovetail?
with a tang or socket handle?
Ok, I'll put that woodie part of me back in the bottle.

Thanks for all the info guys.
I'll get started today.
I think I may replace the sash pulleys while I'm at it.

I doubt that you'd find replacement unless they're second hand. Take them out, give a bit of a clean up and lube. Very little to go wrong with them.
Kryn

You can find sash pulleys easily enough, Elraco sells a variety of them, as does a crowd called restoration online in Sydney.

Whoopeedoo, what a beautiful window. You lucky person! Dave TTC is an expert restorer ... but he is in Victoria. Fortunately, you have received some excellent advice here to do it yourself.

I envy you the house that has such windows. I once had a full sandstone house 1888 with beautiful windows in Tasmania. Now I just have a Griffin and Knowlman slab on ground. It is very liveable but lacks the charm of the older house.

David

Thanks for the comments.
The bay windows are even more impressive.
But I do now have the feeling that I will want to refurbish all the windows, which could take years!?

What does your house look like from the front Graham? The view out the window to the verandah intrigued me. I love old houses, I'm only 30 but I can't stand new houses (volume built ones)

I'm a carpenter in Melbourne and all our work is generally adding rather expensive architectural extensions to period homes, which I like, the addition of the modern to the period. My partner and I bought an 1892 Victorian a couple of years ago and I have a few windows to do like yourself, which I've been putting off. Haha.

Gday Joseseat
North side view (current)




Front view, west (15 year old agent's photo)



Front bay window (1 in 6 Windows not painted closed)