Thread: 4-6-2 Tank Locomotive - Circa 1910

Hi All,

Thanks to members comments regarding the Destination Board. I have made a bit of a modification. To bring it into scale with the rest of the loco - I sanded back the letters to 1/2 mm proud of the backing board. I used 120 grit and then 180 grit. Fair bit of time involved as I needed the letters to all be the same thickness. Then repainted with 2 coats of whit. I am very happy with the outcome. To scale - the letters are only 3mm proud - about right if it were a casting.
I am doing the rear board the same. I have scroll saw cut the letters out of 3mm MDF and glued to the painted backing board. I will sand back to the 1/2 mm tomorrow.

Off to Colac now to display my old Lion locomotive at their Woodworking Club.

Regards

Keith

modified dest board.jpg

Nice job Keith It looks Great

Keith really enjoying the build. I dont have a heap to offer as this is not my expertise. Not sure what is lol.

I do eapecially like when you turn to the lathe.

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Hi All,

Not much work on the wood lathe for a while. Will be getting onto the track work soon.

Colac visit went really well. Woodworkers everywhere are fantastic people. Here are some of the Colac members looking at my Lion loco. A tremendous day

Regards

Keith

colac.jpg

Hi All,

I wonder if you could offer some advice please.

I loved the number plates that were made by a mate of mine and have shown in quite a lot of photos, but since I got my scroll saw and made up the "Destination Plates" I am wondering whether it would look better to do the numbers and D at front and rear in a similar way to the Destination plates - so they look like a casting and would be painted as per the original loco prototype ?

Maybe have answered my question myself but would really love feedback. (I don't think I have the skills to do the "4" on the D4 plate)

Attached are photos of the "Destination Plate" and one of the plates my mate made.

Regards

Keith


signs comparison.jpg

Everything you have on the train looks fantastic Charlie.
The plates your mate made for you are wonderful.

But if I may, I'd say that as you've gone along from build to build your style and technique has not only improved but flourished.
Your Craftsmanship has become the signature of your work.
For that reason I think if you where to make the number plates yourself it would give more continuity the train.

Keep the fantastic coming Charlie Boy, we all enjoy every minute of it!.

Cheers mate
Trev.

Hi All,

Made up the rear Destination Board and slide brackets. Unfortunately with the sanding down the letters to 1/2mm thick also sanded off a fair bit of finger skin - painful.

I am now working on the rear tail disc which will be situated on the buffer plate.

I have 3 photos -

Side view - showing join of bunker to cabin
Front view - showing Front Destination Board
Rear view - showing Rear Destination Board

Added some more structural work inside bunker to allow me to securely position the Bunker rear handrails.

Regards

Keith


front dest board.jpg bunker join.jpg rear dest board.jpg

Yes you could do the class and number plates but the outside frame is also raised and that could test you. Try doing the superscript 4 to scale first - if you are not happy you have your answer at least for the D4. The K class does not have superscript, but the builders plate is a bit more involved so you would probably still use your mate.

Your skill and patients(?) amaze me. As others would say the attention to detail is what really sets the model apart from others.

Rear tail disc - as the one on the front is up, yes make one for the rear but have it folded (only a half disc) and painted body colored - in effect your engine is set to run bunker first - it is after all a tank engine.

Re cab ventilation of the D4, talking to operating staff at Puffing Billy over the last week, (temps in the 30's but humid) the cabs of the Na's can get stinking hot (and that is with front, side and back windows open) I can imagine the D4 with out opening front windows would be like a dry sauna, or worse on a humid day. Some of the handles would get burning hot to touch unless handled with a sweaty. This is where the bucket of water and tap can come in handy.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

Yes you could do the class and number plates but the outside frame is also raised and that could test you. Try doing the superscript 4 to scale first - if you are not happy you have your answer at least for the D4. The K class does not have superscript, but the builders plate is a bit more involved so you would probably still use your mate.

Your skill and patients(?) amaze me. As others would say the attention to detail is what really sets the model apart from others.

Rear tail disc - as the one on the front is up, yes make one for the rear but have it folded (only a half disc) and painted body colored - in effect your engine is set to run bunker first - it is after all a tank engine.

Re cab ventilation of the D4, talking to operating staff at Puffing Billy over the last week, (temps in the 30's but humid) the cabs of the Na's can get stinking hot (and that is with front, side and back windows open) I can imagine the D4 with out opening front windows would be like a dry sauna, or worse on a humid day. Some of the handles would get burning hot to touch unless handled with a sweaty. This is where the bucket of water and tap can come in handy.

Thanks Kevin,

Think I can get over the raised outer quite readily by having this as a separate scroll saw component and then gluing on. The superscript "4" I think I can get done by just hand filing and then gluing on the background base plate. The sanding back to 1/2mm will be a bit painful on my fingers I think. Looking at modifying the makers plate for the bunker by just having the VR and the crown in the middle and not having the tiny "1910" and "Made at the Newport Workshops"

Have almost finished the tail disc and as you said - I have made this workable as either "white" or turn down chasis colour.

I think it was probably "lucky" no OHS issues in the old days. I still would have loved to be a driver or on the footplate.

Going up to the Newport Museum next week to talk about the logistics of taking the D4 model up there (when I finish the trackwork) and also checking out my next build

Thanks for your expertise as always.

Regards

Keith

Originally Posted by Repliconics

Everything you have on the train looks fantastic Charlie.
The plates your mate made for you are wonderful.

But if I may, I'd say that as you've gone along from build to build your style and technique has not only improved but flourished.
Your Craftsmanship has become the signature of your work.
For that reason I think if you where to make the number plates yourself it would give more continuity the train.

Keep the fantastic coming Charlie Boy, we all enjoy every minute of it!.

Cheers mate
Trev.

Very well deserved HIGH PRAISE for a top job a one special ubeaut project by a fine craftsman......

Not knowing the train were the number plates cast on the original and the destination board made from wood if so then I would have thought that they may be different styles.

Why are you not happy about making the number 4 on the scroll saw is it the fact that you need to scroll out the middle if so it is just a case of drilling a hole and poking the blade through before connecting it to the saw, Hope that made sense

Originally Posted by Dalboy

Not knowing the train were the number plates cast on the original and the destination board made from wood if so then I would have thought that they may be different styles.

Why are you not happy about making the number 4 on the scroll saw is it the fact that you need to scroll out the middle if so it is just a case of drilling a hole and poking the blade through before connecting it to the saw, Hope that made sense

Hi Derek,

No - I took the blade out for both the R and D in "FLINDERS ST" on both Destination Boards. It is just the size of th "4" - very tiny. I will try with scroll saw but think it will end up being done by hand with mini files and a drill.
Probably won't get to it tomorrow - son's birthday - but will soon.

Thanks for your comments

Regards

Keith

Don't Freak Out Charlie Boy!.
Just pear some 3mm MDF with a Stanley knife then sand it down to the thickness you need.
Turn it over to the sealed side and draw or apply a printed copy of what you wont.
Then with a scalpel and steel ruler cut it out.
Cutting out the number 4 is very easy, but if your worried about doing the turns in the letter D by eye.
Get your hands on a set of steel French Curves.
Very handy things to have in your kit.

Cheers
Trev.

Thanks Trev,

Peter (pawoods) suggested I may use cardboard for the lettering as well. Where did you get your French curves from ? I have some flexible ones I use for designing Cathies quilts but pretty ordinary - steel ones sound good. Could you send some photos of them with a size comparison - please.

Take Care Mate

Charlie