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Thread: glueing truck sides
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5th June 2017, 03:48 PM #1Senior Member
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glueing truck sides
Hello, I'm trying my first toy truck build for the grandson (who is 1 in december).
I'm doing it off the top of my empty head, now what is the best way to glue up the tray sides, which are 5mm thick glueing to a 8mm base/tray?
1. do you glue or pin and glue, trouble is finding something that small to nail into the base - then trying to nail the bleeding thing in straight.
2. i am going to put in a removalable vertical sliding gate at the rear of the tray, when it is in place, it will help with forces applied from the youngster, when he is old enough!
Regards
Stevo
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5th June 2017, 03:57 PM #2
Firstly Stevo, Congratulations on the toy truck build...
Some years back a few blokes on the forum recommended "Titebond Original" to glue up toy parts.
For strength in the toys I've built I've often over built them to take the play of our grandsons..
Also I've used 3mm and 4mm bamboo skewers as dowels to strengthen the joints, the bamboo soaks up the glue in the hole becoming very strong...
Something else I've done on corner joints is add an exhaust stack in the corner...
I hope that's some assistance, cheers, crowie.
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5th June 2017, 05:55 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Totally agree with Peter.
In my loco builds I use spiral nails as my dowels (cut the heads off) and secure them in position with 5 minute araldite. They will never come out.
I use a piece of extra timber as well glued to the base. I let it dry and then secure the upright to the base and the extra piece of timber ( also ensures it is at 90 degrees.
I use quickset Selleys PVA glue (blue bottle) workable in 30 minutes.
Regards
Keith
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5th June 2017, 06:13 PM #4Mug punter
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i just use ordinary wood glue ... where i can i pin them with dowels made from toothpicks which i bought from coles and which have a diameter of 3/32 inch ... i generally just use spring clamps on them or rubber bands if i can't get a better clamping point
the toothpick dowels are not for strength ... just to keep it from sliding out of place when i put clamping pressure on
i have a friend who used small tacks for this purpose ... pushing them halfway in to one piece with a clamp and then cutting the heads off with pliers, leaving a sharp point which he presses into the opposing piece ... again the purpose is not for strength just to positively locate them against movement when clamping
regards david
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5th June 2017, 06:30 PM #5
Hi,
Bamboo kebab skewers also make good dowels and do add a bit of strength. Also safer than nails or brads if it breaks apart through mishandling.
RegardsHugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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6th June 2017, 10:15 AM #6Senior Member
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Thank you Gentlemen, thats a big help, I was really worried about using tacks or nails as mentioned by "A Duke" if the little fella "piffs" the truck and it breaks exposing the sharpies
I will post some pic's but it is only a very basic build, ordered some wheels and axles so they should be here at the end of the week, so I will be asking about their installation, I will pop the pictures up at the same time when the wheels rock up.
Cheers and thanks again.
Stevo
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6th June 2017, 12:00 PM #7Intermediate Member
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Hi Stevo
Ditto to all suggestions above, particularly the bamboo skewers.
I also use these to fasten the axles when mounting wheels when using the stubby axles with the hub on the end.
I generally install the wheels last, after the rest of the truck is finished, oiled etc.
When I drill the holes for the axles I generally drill all the way through to the other side on the drill press. This keeps the holes aligned.
It is usually only a 5-10 minute job to install all wheels and axles from here.
Have everything that you need ready on the bench and it is pretty quick work.
I use an old credit card with a slot cut out of it as a spacer between the wheel and the body.
Having the credit card spacer in place means you don't have to worry about jammed wheels or how much space to leave for them to run freely.
Put a bit of glue in the axle hole, insert axle with wheel on it and while holding the axle in with a thumb I flip the truck over and drill a 3mm hole through the base of the truck into the axle.
Put a bit of glue in and tap a bamboo skewer in. Once this skewer is in through the axle it is now fixed in place.
Remove the credit card spacer and the wheel will spin freely.
I then cut the skewer flush with a flush cut saw. I have a $20 Irwan one bought at Bunnnies that is perfect for this.
Repeat another 3 times. Wheels on and finished.
Hope this helps.
I look forward to seeing some pictures of the finished truck.
Cheers
Rod T
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6th June 2017, 06:25 PM #8Intermediate Member
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Stevo,
You might also drill pilot holes for any brads etc that you might use, so as not to split the thin sides. I find that a brad itself, with the head cut off, is a great substitute for a small drill bit. You might have to use a drill with a chuck that can handle a very small bit however. I've just ordered a couple of small chucks that have a 6 mm shaft, for use in the large cordless drills we have at our Shed.
Superfoot
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8th June 2017, 04:16 PM #9Senior Member
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Lots of good advice Gentlemen, (thanks).
The wheels arrived, now the problem of do I use the big ones at the front and small at the back, as pictured.
Or big - big, or small small. (photo is a bit blurry and cropped to stop the background)
The wheel chassis/axle has to be added still , but you get the idea.
DSC04813.jpg
Inside the truck, sides still to be trimmed, and back gate added.
DSC04812.jpg
Cabin without window but has the side step, I may drill a Hole straight through the cabin (door to door) to look like a window that way the little fella has somewhere to grip when pushing.
DSC04807.jpg
The radiator a piece of Grevillia - silky oak i think? it would have looked good with the grain straight up and down but that is all I had.
The bottom corners are turned in a tad deliberately as I will take a bit off the side steps beside/behind the radiator.
DSC04806.jpg
I have made a few blue's along the way (too many to count) but its good learning, so fire away with any praises or poops, If this lasts 6 month's with the little fella I'll be very surprised!
Stevo
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8th June 2017, 06:28 PM #10
G'Day Stevo, Great looking truck you've got going there sir...
On the wheels, larger diameter at the front is the way I went with a farm truck style...
An easy way to get the centre heights on the different wheel sizes is to lay both side by side against a straight edge on a piece of card [mark a line were the straight edge is on the cards] ; mark the centre holes through the axle peg holes... I hope that makes some sense.
Cheers, crowie
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9th June 2017, 09:21 AM #11
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9th June 2017, 09:30 AM #12Senior Member
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Thanks for that Crowie, I asked his dad last night, and he said big wheels front and back, the truck reminds me of a Mercedes 1418 series.
I did a stint of house removal and re-blocking in the early 80's, (B of a job) and the boss had the 1418 truck for transporting houses etc.
It was a real work horse, never failed.
Cheers
Stevo
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