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  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    You're doing better than me Keith, WAY TOO HOT here to get into the shed though I'm sure it would have helped take my mind off other things....
    Keep the photos coming sir, keep that train steaming on through the production line..
    Cheers Peter
    Yes - the shed is a good place to focus on other things. We were lucky with the heat - it was originally supposed to reach 38 down here yesterday but only got to about 30. By-passed us and "lucky" you got it.

    Loving this loco

    Regards

    Keith

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  3. #137
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    Dec 2015
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    Looking great!
    But it's the little details that put it over the top.

  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by htl View Post
    Looking great!
    But it's the little details that put it over the top.
    Hi,

    Still working on the basics of the loco. The challenging part will be the "teardrop holes" in the splash guards of the 8 foot main drive wheels. Also the detail of the controls inside the cab. Reckon this loco may take up to December to complete - it's enjoyable

    Regards

    Keith

  5. #139
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    Aug 2010
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    Looking good Keith

    DaveTTC

    Turning Wood into Art

  6. #140
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    Nov 2008
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    As always Keith a lot been done on the loco and as always a very high standard but then we expect nothing less from a craftsman like yourself

    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    You're doing better than me Keith, WAY TOO HOT here to get into the shed though I'm sure it would have helped take my mind off other things....
    Keep the photos coming sir, keep that train steaming on through the production line..
    Cheers Peter
    Been the opposite here for a while but did manage to get into the shed for a couple of hours, paint drying stopped work.

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post
    As always Keith a lot been done on the loco and as always a very high standard but then we expect nothing less from a craftsman like yourself



    Been the opposite here for a while but did manage to get into the shed for a couple of hours, paint drying stopped work.
    Thanks for your comments mate

    How cold is it over there Derek ?

    Regards

    Keith

  8. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    Thanks for your comments mate

    How cold is it over there Derek ?

    Regards

    Keith
    For a week it was below zero and now it is only just above that. At least I have managed to get back into the shed and do some work on a Prime mover cab unit from a set of Australian plans and also the last competition piece for the turning club.

  9. #143
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    Hi All,

    A top mate once told me that if I get cracking in any joins that I have made - the best remedy is to cut the crack out and repair it.

    Here is the tip that I was told that may benefit others.

    There was a crack developing between the joins of my Stirling piston cylinders and the smokebox. This was on both sides.
    Using a dremel - cut out the crack to a depth of about 3mm.
    Fill the crack with Bodyfiller (that may give a bit of a clue).
    Allow to set - about an hour and then sand back with 120, 180 and wet/dry paper.
    Give at least 2 coats of primer.
    The crack should never come back.

    I have also been working on my piston drive assemblies on both sides of the loco. I cut these out and laminated with 8mm thick (cut on table saw) pine. This gives me the exact width for the gap for my crank arm. The side bolt boss and the piston shaft guide was made out of pine offcuts that I turned in the woodlathe to 18mm diameter and then drilled with a forstner bit.

    Regards

    Keith

    38.jpg 39.jpg40.jpg 41.jpg 42.jpg

  10. #144
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Sometimes one can get all cracked up about puns too Keith but bog won't fix them, only laughter... Top job sir. Cheers, Peter

  11. #145
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    Hi All,

    I have been working on the design of the piston drive cranks. Sketched up from the photos I had - (I think they look pretty much to scale) and then copied them on my printer. That way I could get both arms the same. Cut them out and then used a cheap glue stick to adhere the paper to the pine. I have found that if I use PVA glue it impacts on the surface of the pine and is a real pain to sand off.

    I cut out the arm roughly on the bandsaw and then filed and sanded using 120 and 180 paper. I used a 3/8" bolt as my main connecting shaft and turned the head down on my metal lathe to give it the round shaft head.
    The spacer between the arm and the wheel is turned out of 25mm aluminium. The bearing oiler nipple is made out of 6mm aluminium turned down and drilled with a 1.5mm drill.
    I recessed the inside of the wheel with a forstner bit so the nut won't protrude.

    The second photo gives an indication of size using my empty beer can.

    Now to finish off the other side crank arm.

    Regards

    Keith

    43.jpg 44.jpg

    By the way Peter - We won at bowls Yesterday - Maximum points - now in the four

  12. #146
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    I guess you mean connecting rods and crank bearing. The crank bearing (on the driving wheel) is often referred to as the "Big End bearing", the other end on the crosshead being the "Little End".

    Wait until you start working on the motion of the Garratt (at Drysdale or Belgrave) and you will appreciate your small scale, two cylinder engine.

  13. #147
    crowie's Avatar
    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    Hi All,

    Cut them out and then used a cheap glue stick to adhere the paper to the pine. I have found that if I use PVA glue it impacts on the surface of the pine and is a real pain to sand off.

    The second photo gives an indication of size using my empty beer can.

    Regards

    Keith

    By the way Peter - We won at bowls Yesterday - Maximum points - now in the four
    ....
    Thank you for the most useful tip on using the "glue stick".....

    Congratulations on the win at bowls, final you've done it sir, WELL DONE....

    lawn_bowling.jpg

    And who was the person who emptied that beer can on you??

    Cheers, Peter

  14. #148
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    Love the little cartoon Peter.

    Yeah - I emptied the can

    Prefer Carlton Draught though.

    Regards

    Keith

  15. #149
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    Hi All,

    I finished off the other side coupling rod and then started to do some work on the top of the boiler. I don't think it matters too much if you jump from one component to another that is totally different - in the longer term everything has to be made and fitted anyway.

    I am happy how the loco is going.

    I have made up the main steam whistle. I went online and looked up an auction site for steam whistles. I found one that looks very similar to the Stirling - downloaded the photo and then drew it up to my scale. All the components for the whistle are made out of aluminium (including the handle). The handle was the most difficult. I cut it out of 3mm aluminium sheet and then filed it down to the shape I wanted and then used sandpaper to round it off. The handle bends really easy by hand in the vice. I used 25mm aluminium round as my form to bend around. The whistle will eventually be spray painted in "Super Gold" and will look like polished brass.

    I have also made up the steam dome although it doesn't look like the more recent style steam dome (perhaps you can help us out on the Kevin "Handyjack"). I laminated 5 pieces of 19mm pine and clamped them overnight. I turned up the dome on the woodlathe and then sanded the base on a spindle sander to get the contour of the boiler. This dome will also be finished in "Super Gold" to look like polished brass.

    The next things I am going to work on are the smokebox door fittings.

    I have also included a photo of the loco looking out my shed - because I like the photo

    Regards

    Keith

    45.jpg 46.jpg

  16. #150
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    The 2nd photo looks really cool, almost life like
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

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