Thread: GNR Stirling Locomotive

A real late comer, but I have been through the thread and now up to speed. I forgot how much I enjoyed watching your builds until I saw the little the little Penny-Darren steam engine model on the Clayton Boyer site and it made me immediately think of your builds. Had to come back and see what you have been up to.

This is a great build as yours always are. I will be tagging along.

Thanks Paul,

Great to see you back on the Forum

Regards

Keith

Hi All,

Taken nearly 5 days but I have done one of the steam injector assemblies just behind the main drive wheel and in front of the trailing wheel. Lots of work for something that is probably a bit insignificant in the build - but I am happy with it.

It was turned out of aluminium and all the other assembly pieces are also aluminium (except the handle shafts - they are 2mm wire). Parts were araldited together and then joins blended using bodyfiller. Now need to do the other side.

Regards

Keith

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You've had too many lessons from Trevor, Keith...
Everything is in the correctness of the detail...
Top job sir, Cheers, Peter

You say they are insignificantbut it is the attention to these little pieces of detail that make this stand out as a complete build. Looking good mate and can't wait to see a little colour which will certainly bring it alive.
I agree with Peter about Trevor he certainly put you on the right path with the use of filler

Originally Posted by Dalboy

You say they are insignificantbut it is the attention to these little pieces of detail that make this stand out as a complete build. Looking good mate and can't wait to see a little colour which will certainly bring it alive.
I agree with Peter about Trevor he certainly put you on the right path with the use of filler

Thanks Derek,

Yes - bodyfiller is a bit messy to work with , but files and sands up beautifully. Recommend anybody to try it. I got my tin of it - (called Bog at Bunnings). You only need a tiny amount of hardener to the mixture - that gives you a bit more time to slap it around and into the position you require. Whist it is curing - you can cut off excess with a stanley knife.

I will start the paintwork on the loco when I have done the interior cabin ( will probably start painting the control components as I go along) I think the green I am going to paint the loco will look OK.

Regards

Keith

Hi All,

Did a search on footplate photos of the Stirling and managed to get my hand on some extra detailed photos of the cabin controls on the Stirling so now its all go for the interior of the cabin and all the controls. The controls are a little less complicated than my 1910 4-6-2 Tank loco so I think it will come up OK but I will focus on the quality of finish of the loco controls.

I have finished the other side of the loco's steam injectors. It is a heck of a lot easier making a second component that you can copy off the original.

I have taken another photo in grey scale of the loco looking out the workshop. (I know that Ray liked the grey scale version).

Now working on the firebox and where the controls will be fitted once made.

All the Best

Keith

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The days are getting shorter, the nights longer.
Its cold in the morning, time to get the fire going.

Look forward to the the cab build. Right Hand drive this one.

Hi all,

Now started on the footplate. The photo shows the start of the firebox. The drilled holes are where the control valves are located and all have flanged bases. I have drawn them up so I know exact flange sizes to scale.

The shown assembly is made out of 12mm thick MDF. The backing flange is 3mm MDF. The rounded edges were roughly done witha rasp and then filed with a smooth file and sanded. It has then been primed and re-sanded. The firebox opening assembly is MDF with the opening protruding through the MDF. The brackets on the assembly are made out of aluminium.
All rivets are spiral nail heads araldited into position.

As luck has it - the gauges on this loco - only 2 - a steam valve and a vacuum gauge - are the same size (to scale) as my watch faces I have from Cathies second hand watches. The only issue I may have is making up the vacuum gauge scale as it it a double vacuum gauge with 2 separate needle in the one gauge - See photo. Anyway this is the fun bit of the build.

Ignore the scrappy looking floor - it will be finished off with proper floorboards - the MDF is just there for the firebox assembly to sit on at this stage (also the protruding screws)

Regards

Keith

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Now I feel things are starting to warm up.

The two gauges are a "pressure gauge" to indicate the steam pressure above atmospheric pressure in the boiler, the other gauge, I would call a brake gauge, in this case the amount of vacuum or negative pressure for the brakes. As I am not familiar with vacuum brakes I do not know what the two needles indicate. I am sure one would indicate the vacuum in the train pipe.

The round top will make it difficult to heat any tucker up. Might need to squeeze it behind some pipes.

Originally Posted by Handyjack

Now I feel things are starting to warm up.

The two gauges are a "pressure gauge" to indicate the steam pressure above atmospheric pressure in the boiler, the other gauge, I would call a brake gauge, in this case the amount of vacuum or negative pressure for the brakes. As I am not familiar with vacuum brakes I do not know what the two needles indicate. I am sure one would indicate the vacuum in the train pipe.

The round top will make it difficult to heat any tucker up. Might need to squeeze it behind some pipes.

Thanks Kevin,

Found a double needle vacuum gauge face on a website. All's good now

Keith

If you need gauges created graphically, I'm happy to help. Just need clear images or drawings of the gauges and their diameters. If you have logos or brand names to be included happy to add them too, of course.

Hi all,

Over the last 3 days I have been working on making flanges and components for the control valves inside the cabin.

The flanges are machined out of aluminium. There are 2 different size flanges that were required for this locomotive. I have drilled the flanges 3mm which looks OK for the scale of the loco.

The first valve assembly is a combination of 3 aluminium shafts I machined up. They are araldited together using 2mm wire as my dowel to join the shafts. I have used M5 nuts drilled out to look like tube nuts at the base of the valve. I will be using 6.3mm aluminium solid as my pipework on the main piping inside the cabin.

The handwheel was finicky. Machined 20mm Outside diameter and then hacksawed it off. Drilled 4 holes and then used needle files to get the four quadrants done. Then handfiled the back smooth where I had hacksawed.

The next component is something I am really looking forward to making - the boiler water sight glass. This will have real glass on the 4 sides. More practice for my glass cutting

Regards

Keith


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Have you scaled what thickness glass you need?

DaveTTC

Turning Wood into Art