Metal bolts in wooden threads.

[Alexkara]

Boys, Girls, Ladies, Gents, Ladents, Gendies and Rexx The Wonder Dog (hope I have included everyone),

I appreciate metal bolts directly into wooden threads is not every ones cuppa tea, however, I was surprised how many woodworkers have never considered the concept in their timber projects.
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If the topic has raised your eyebrows, you may wish to check out this blog I wrote for Lumberjocks yesterday (rather than repeat here). It's is not meant to spruik a product or provide expertise on the topic but to present the concept and the learning curve/progress I've gone through in case you think it may be useful to you if it's a new suggestion.

[Dalboy]

On my tyre cutting jig in the tool holder mount I have used threaded bar straight into wood. Like most things careful selection of wood and even bolt there is no reason why you should not do so. And of load on the wood to be taken in consideration.

[cava]

Good review.

[Chris Parks]

Corrosion of the bolt has always been my concern if it is steel and is in the timber long term. Wood has moisture in it and moisture causes corrosion (rust). Stainless bolts are the answer of course.

[I_wanna_Shed]

I also pre-ordered a set of Metric taps from The Wood Whisperer (it was a pre-order with a clear understanding that they would be delivered around June, if anyone wonders why it took months to arrive).

I haven't used mine yet. TWW modified the design so that the shank is smaller than the equivalent metal tap. This allows for the compression of timber fibres which will allow for a much tighter and 'less wobble' fit.

[MrFixIt]

Hi

Yes, threads in wood are viable. The quality of the "grip" can fluctuate. The type of timber and the (sometimes variable) moisture content affects the ability to turn threads that are designed for adjustment. My preferred method is to use skein nuts. These are threaded inserts that are screwed into timber. The inside of the skein nut has a thread for bolts/cap screws etc. and a screw thread for installation into wood or MDF. The skein nut works very well in MDF but not so good in particle board.

For those interested or perhaps unfamiliar with skein nuts here is a link to some images or just google skein nuts.

[Bohdan]

I often use metal bolts in wood as occasionally adjustable stops. To ensure that the bolt doesn't destroy the thread with repeated adjustment I put a small dab of PVA glue in the threaded hole and screw in a lightly oiled bolt. After the glue dries I remove the bolt and repeat the procedure. After a couple of times I have a glue impregnated thread which has so far proved itself as very durable and will even work in chipboard.

If I want the bolt to hold permanently I just do it once with a larger quantity of glue.

P.S. I now use SS bolts as they don't rust, not in the timber but on the outside where they are visible.

[graham.murfett]

Interesting. I have used metal threads in timber before, but I have never precut the thread with a thread tap. I usually just use the bolt thread to 'form' the thread.
Works or me!?


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[Kiwi75]

I use metal bolts for axles in my wooden toys and have yet to be let down by them, though I do use a hole of just the right size as to cut a thread and a large enough wooden axle as to not split.

[woodPixel]

Im going to have to order a set of those now....

Expensive arent they!

[Lappa]

I use metal cutting taps to cut thread in timber.

I've used these brass ones in knock down furniture. They work a lot better in ply than the zinc alloy ones because they don't have as an aggressive outside thread.

Brass & Copper Fasteners : Insert, Threaded, Brass

[Lappa]

I use metal cutting taps to cut thread in timber.

I've used these brass ones in knock down furniture. They work a lot better in ply than the zinc alloy ones because they don't have as an aggressive outside thread.

Brass & Copper Fasteners : Insert, Threaded, Brass

[Simplicity]

Hi

Yes, threads in wood are viable. The quality of the "grip" can fluctuate. The type of timber and the (sometimes variable) moisture content affects the ability to turn threads that are designed for adjustment. My preferred method is to use skein nuts. These are threaded inserts that are screwed into timber. The inside of the skein nut has a thread for bolts/cap screws etc. and a screw thread for installation into wood or MDF. The skein nut works very well in MDF but not so good in particle board.

For those interested or perhaps unfamiliar with skein nuts here is a link to some images or just google skein nuts.

Thank you
Mr fixit.

I now have a prober name for the thinger manjiges.

Cheers Matt


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[KBs PensNmore]

I do this quite often, mainly for jigs, mainly for use on the router, using Threaded Inserts.
Skein nuts also go under the name of Threaded Inserts. The Green Shed has them too.

[NCArcher]

Does anyone else feel these WW taps are a solution to a problem that doesn't exist? Standard metal cutting taps work perfectly well in wood. I've been taping holes in hardwood for ages. Never had a problem. For threads that get used a lot, like in jig adjustment, I prefer a threaded insert.