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Thread: Using Toys and Joys plans
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6th July 2018, 01:12 PM #1Novice
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Using Toys and Joys plans
Hi all,
This is probably a silly question, but what is the best way to use the Toys and Joys plans for a beginner who is concerned about mistakes?
I've seen some posts where users cut out the shapes from the actual plans and glue those to their wood and cut the shape that way, but that would only be a one-time use?
The plans recommend using carbon/tracing paper. I'm guessing people do that and then use the method above to cut out accurate shapes without wasting the plans themselves?
I have access to a table saw and a scrollsaw but the plans and site recommend a bandsaw, which adds to my concern of making a newby mistake and ruining the plans.
Or should I just measure up the wood while referencing the plans and hope my measurements and marks are all accurate enough for the plan?
I'm sure that I'm just being overly dramatic, but any feedback from experienced toy makers would be greatly appreciated.
Furns
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6th July 2018 01:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th July 2018, 01:41 PM #2Senior Member
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On parts that have a specific shape i use a copier and copy the piece i need. That would be anything curved for me.
If it is just a angle on a straight piece i just measure the angle.
I also glue the copy on to 1/8 hardboard and make a permanent pattern to trace.
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6th July 2018, 02:47 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Furns
I don't use their plans, but like oneye, I will draw up my own and then copy them on my printer. I make multiple copies and also scan onto the computer so I won't lose them. I used to glue the paper onto the timber using PVA glue, but it penetrates the timber too much and is a pain to remove. Instead I use a paper glue stick. Get them from the supermarket or Reject shop for pittance. The paper comes off easily.
Regards
Keith
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6th July 2018, 11:29 PM #4
I make copies and use them as patterns. either that or I sometimes will use the measurements and draw out the part this all depends on the piece in question. If the part has a straight edge then make a edge on the wood straight and place the template on it along the edge.
Sit and study the plans and work out if you can break the build down into small sections working on each one. When you have a number of sections then glue these together. Normally I start with the chassis as that is the backbone of the model/toy.
Which plan do you have, also when you start please post on here the progress which will help as you can ask questions as you build also someone may suggest a way of doing something that you may not have thought of.
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7th July 2018, 09:01 AM #5
I did a blog on how I make and use plans for my models, find it here.
There's a hundred ways to do just about any thing but this is what works for me right now..An Index Of My Model making Blogs on Lumber Jocks.
http://lumberjocks.com/htl/blog/116729
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7th July 2018, 09:54 AM #6
Furns, as most people mentioned, copy and print to scale is the cheapest way out. Personally I feel that tracing is only introducing additional margin for errors. At times you may need to scan, print, stitch and paste to the work piece. Depending on thickness, the scroll is one of the best tools for off the tool finish for intricate shapes. Straight(ish) cuts can simply be achieved by direct drawing on the parts... or just depend on the accuracy of your tablesaw's fence settings.
While T & J recommend bandsaws, and they are a great asset, you just need to remember that off the tool is not the neatest and tight curves are generally bandsaw blade size dependant... though having said that, I have seen some incredible results with large blades under a trained operative. You didn't mention having access to a disc sander (and/or spindle sander) which is a very handy tool(s) to follow up on bandsawing. If you have a lathe, you could make a sanding disc attachment... there are many blogs on how to. Appropriate sanding attachments to a drill press is an "acceptable" substitute for a spindle sander... again many great blogs on the procedure.
Good luck with your venture into the T & J addiction... and as for mistakes... even seasoned veterans make many mistakes... they've just learnt to cover them up well.
PS. Last minute thought... I've seen may toymakers cut awkward shapes in multiple parts (though the plans call for one piece) and glue them together to fool their audience.
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7th July 2018, 11:51 AM #7Novice
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Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate all the feedback.
Ive gone down to officeworks and had them do me a few copys of the plans I bought (#30 Waltons pickup and #25 Fire Truck).
The fenders on the Walton look a bit tricky compared so I might try the Fire Truck first. I picked up some Blackwood and Blue Gum today and I'll make a post if I get a chance to start this weekend.
Furns
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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7th July 2018, 12:49 PM #8Mug punter
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hmmm .. i typed a response here yesterday (should have been post 4) but obviously failed to successfully complete it
in that post i said (as others have) that i use photocopies and paste them onto the wood with stationery glue sticks
i also observed that with the crane boom arm, i pasted the wood onto the photocopied plans so that i got the two sides of the boom arm the same
i further noted that with mudguards i cut the plan view (ie looking down on them) first then double side tape the waste piece back on to cut the side view and that for the side view you need to paste the paper on one of the guards from the back of the paper and one from the front to avoid making 2 left or 2 right guards rather than a pair ... also suggested that you try the guards out of pine first to get the hang of them and that i use a disc sander and bobbin sander to refine the shapes where necessary
if you are prepared to take advice from someone who cannot even get their post to go through, i hope it helps
regards david
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7th July 2018, 12:57 PM #9Mug punter
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i don't know how much officeworks charges but i have found ALL of the time i have not needed any copies larger than A3 (which fortunately is the size of my photocopier at home) and often A4 is sufficient but that there are plenty of times i need two or more copies of something .... for instance the mudguards generally have the plan view of both sides (L and R ) on one page but only one side view (and you need A3 for them)
thus if you can work it out ahead of time and do as much copying as you can at home, it may save some money on printing
regards david
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7th July 2018, 04:34 PM #10
G’day Furns, Top mob of blokes here in toymaking and model making.
I think you should be on top of it now with some great assistance; check out Bruce’s blog as hey definitely a good toy/model maker who does first class tutorials.
Looking forward to seeing you efforts sir, cheers crowie
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7th July 2018, 06:56 PM #11
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7th July 2018, 08:38 PM #12Mug punter
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7th July 2018, 09:08 PM #13
Guilty as charged... on my first build, I made all the wheels right handed (tread orientation)... so I had to make 4 left handed ones and now I have some spares,
IMG_0712.jpg
But I'm not stewpid, I quickly learned my lesson... the next time I made them all left handed... fortunately I only had to make 2 right handed ones,
IMG_0713.jpg
At least I've mastered the art of mistakes!
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8th July 2018, 12:46 AM #14
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8th July 2018, 01:50 AM #15
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