Thread: Wheel jig

Great job on the drawing. The only thing I see different to my design is I have attached the indexing knob to the shaft using a grubscrew through a boss rather than the nut. That way you can set the clearance between the knob and the mounting plate rather than tightening the nut and locking it all up.

Thanks TreeCycle. Its easy for me as I do this a few times a day for my clients. It helps them visualise a thing before we even prototype

Version 2 is live. BTW, everyone is free to take these and do what they want with them.

Obviously I haven't actually made a wheel with it yet, but I did try to visualise the whole process. When you mentioned how the wheel attaches I was thinking while designing "how do we get this sucker to cooperate"... especially not to turn or wiggle.

My thoughts are the centre rod is a bright threaded rod/bolt of some kind and the nuts are the nylon-locked kind. One would do them up "goldilocks". The essence of the job is the indexing wheel and stop-rod. If the assembly were complex, requiring bearings etc, then it gets fiddly to see how it might behave itself. I considered a lock down clamp or even a cam lock. The cam seemed most sensible, especially when put in combo with the indexing wheel and rod....

If the cam kept everything modestly tight (but loose-ish) while locating the index and inserting the rod (a 1/4" steel or brass rod from the model shop), then tightly secured by lifting the cam - then it will not wobble or move while the cut is made. The cam is located on the rear of the indexing wheel. This seems to eliminate all the complexity.

What a fun project!

04232-121105_IG.jpg wheel jig Treecycle V2.jpgwheel jig Treecycle V2-1.jpg

edit: trimmed the bolt to make the cam actually work Put the nylon nut on the wheel side.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

why are all my posts being deleted?

I had the same problem until I put "white out" on my [DEL] key... now I don't lose anything... except the [DEL] key.

wP, Thanks for the post and the SKP. That cam is one neatto solution. If I may take it to the next stage, you might be able to incorporate the indexing with the cam. Maybe a large diameter spring (or maybe a thick foam/rubber washer) between the backing board and the indexing wheel with just a small indexing dowel protruding (3mm) out of the backing board.
wheel jig Treecycle V2.skp - SketchUp Pro 2016-001489.jpg
If you line up the ducks properly, the cam should engage the pin. Just a thought. Certainly simpler than the nightmare I came up with.

I may have mentioned I tried to SU it from Dallas's DXF file, and did a 720° about turn. However, I do like looking at other peoples work as I can always learn something. I thank you for your SKP as I picked from it the easier way to draw diagonal kerfs in a wheel using the "twist" operation. Up till now I've always used the "intersect faces" and then spend the next 20 years cleaning up the mess and plugging holes...

Originally Posted by Treecycle

... I would like to rig up some sort of reduction gearbox to the pivot shaft which will increase the accuracy of the spacings and also make the number of grooves almost limitless. Will have to see how I go with this.

I have had a play around with gearing to get my jig operational. I am currently working on a rig to hold the "original jig" to permit router/Dremel/Foredom use (have just trialled it prior to posting this reply). I have catered for using my Festool QF1400 router. I have also made up a 3D printed adaptor for a Foredom 44T handpiece which will accept 1/4" router bits. This way with the appropriate templates I should be able to "kerf" non-linear shapes. I have uploaded to SketchUp file to DropBox and also an A3 sized PDF file of the measurements and layout diagrams. I have also uploaded a separate SKP for the router option. For those that just like to look at dirty pictures, I have placed a number of pickies into a pdf file of the process I used to test the jig.
The files can be accessed using this link to my DropBox. As I may have mentioned, my jig is grossely over-engineered, however, it may give someone ideas in/for another project.

PS. Treecycle, I apologise for calling you 3C... I misread your monika as THreecycle.

Is there some connection that I cannot see between the index knob and the shaft, otherwise turning the index knob will not turn the wheel.

PS. Treecycle, I apologise for calling you 3C... I misread your monika as THreecycle.

Thought that might have been the case. Took me a while to work it out.

I see your point, wP will need to confirm that, I think he included the caveat the he hadn't test run it yet. I was only day-dreaming and trying to confuse the issue with my springs. On my jig(s), I use skateboard bearings (got a swag for under 50c each a while back for general workshop jigs... and the odd occasional nose and ear-rings)... For 5/16" wheel bores I use a 22mm OD x 8mm ID x 7mm wide bearing(s) and for 1/4" bore I use a 3/4" OD x 1/4" ID x 6mm wide bearings. They jam in the timber and when I crank up the retainer bolts (and appropriate spacer washers) the whole spindle and wheel moves like my missus' lips... as one.

Treecycle, you are right! How stupid of me. Let me relook at your earlier solutions.

Alex, you'll find a few ball bearings in the objects list of the SKPs

Originally Posted by woodPixel

... objects list of the SKPs

????

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Is there some connection that I cannot see between the index knob and the shaft, otherwise turning the index knob will not turn the wheel.
Thought that might have been the case. Took me a while to work it out.

This morning I was lying awake contemplating this conundrum... Then like the chirping of the birds, it dawned on me that my spring loading suggestion with the current configuration made no sense. I quickly realised why I finished up with the contraption I did.

Sorry for the...
Red herring.jpg

You all have been busy while I was well busy with things that don't matter.
Now making wheels matters!!!
My biggest problem is getting a true indexer working I was looking at my 4o tooth saw blades and will be playing with making a indexer with perfect 40 points of interest.
My wheels have all had 36 grooves but some of the spacings have been off just slightly.
I made this indexer to work with my Hummer build that had a 4 1/4" wheel.
Most of my builds now use a 3" to 2 3/4 wheel so am wondering if the 40 grooves will be to close together but believe this will give a finer car tire look.

I know you're wondering why is he talking about saw blades,but they have perfect spacing and if I take a 5/8 dowel for the saw center then drill a hole at the 40 points I will be able to have perfect spacing with no wandering while making my indexer. [using 7 1/4 saw blade]
I know ducky with his laser cutter can do better but we work with what we have.
My Sprint race car is in need of wheels so will be looking into this in the next couple a days.

I love making wheels this is going to be fun!!!

Originally Posted by htl

....
I know ducky with his laser cutter can do better but we work witI know you're wondering why is he talking about saw bladesh what we have.
My Sprint race car is in need of wheels so will be looking into this in the next couple a days.

I love making wheels this is going to be fun!!!

Looking forward to it htl (can't call you #4 here... With all these randy Aussie blokes. you could be #x in the thousands here). Hate to contemplate your limit if you had a lazer (yeh I know tires vs tyres).. your SS (Shop Smith in Yankee speak) seems to more than compensate.

PS. Why can't we get SS here in the land of the best??... C'mon vendors!

"PS. Why can't we get SS here in the land of the best??... C'mon vendors![/QUOTE]
Alex if they were going to bring them over it would have been a long time ago they've been being made since like 1955 or so.
I know this is a late post but LJ has been really quiet so searching around here for inspiration. LOL

This has sorta given me an idea, I have a spiral saw that never gets used and it fits Dremel size bits. If I made a sled with something like what the gents above have designed I could do shaped or stright grooves in one pass, one very slow pass no doubt.

It wouldn't be as nice as a saw but I don't have one of them.

What about a freewheeling mechanism in a bike hub? I know I have an axial type ratcheting hub(called star ratchet) but it only has 24 engagement points, still, with a quick release clamp locking it in pace it could possibly work.

DT Swiss.jpg

Sounds interesting, never had a look at them before.

Here is my solution to get equal spaced holes or tread on wheels. I've build a divider and that solution could be applied to any configuration or numbers of holes to do.

Diviseur 16 Version 2-0.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-1.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-2.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-3.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-4.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-5.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-6.jpgDiviseur 16 Version 2-7.jpg