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  1. #1
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    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Default Help please? Trimming 3mm off new cabinet doors

    Hi Everyone,

    Looking for some advice, please? I'm making a few doors for some cabinets I've created. I picked up a couple of cheap pine chests of drawers, have removed the drawers and runners, etc, and am adding shelves and doors to convert them into cabinets. I had no idea how much room to leave around the outside of the door edges, and, frankly, think I'm going to run into trouble once I add the hinges.

    What is the easiest way to trim down the outside edges of the doors? They're just made of 18mm ply. (I used 12mm, then framed the front of the doors with 6mm, which is glued and nailed onto the fronts). I'm thinking that an electric planer might be the go?? I tried using the table saw, but it got a bit wobbly without the riving knife in situ. Would I be able to use a router for this? If so, what sort of bit would I need?

    Also, is there a standard allowance for the gap around cabinet doors using mortice/non-mortice hinges.

    I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks very much.
    Lizzie.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    4,770

    Default

    A flush trim router bit and a straight edge is a good way to remove a small amount. Clamp the straight edge to the door and let the bearing ride along the straight edge.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    Default

    Are the doors to be fitted internal to the cupboard or on the outside - ie. inset or overlay? I normally aim for 3 mm around outsides of doors and between doors if inset.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Are the doors to be fitted internal to the cupboard or on the outside - ie. inset or overlay? I normally aim for 3 mm around outsides of doors and between doors if inset.
    Thanks Lappa. The doors will be fitted inside the cabinet. So I allow 3mm on each side, and top and base? Sounds good.

  6. #5
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    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    A flush trim router bit and a straight edge is a good way to remove a small amount. Clamp the straight edge to the door and let the bearing ride along the straight edge.
    NC, thanks for your reply. Why would I need the straight edge? Wouldn't I just let the router run against the edge of the door? Any recommendations for a good router?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
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    Table saw should be ok, riving knife does not stop wobbles, something else is causing wobbles

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    NCArcher is spot on. The bearing on the router bit follows the straight edge so the door is trimmed exactly to the straight edge

    http://woodtools.nov.ru/books/WoodTi...a%20Router.pdf

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Default

    Thanks China. The problem with the table saw was that, because I was trying to trim off such a small thickness, the cut off bit wedged at the side of the blade, which then jammed and slowed, causing the wood to move sideways, to the left. I agree, theoretically it shouldn't have made a difference, but it did.

  10. #9
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    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Thanks Lappa, that makes more sense.

  11. #10
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lizziecro View Post
    The problem with the table saw was that, because I was trying to trim off such a small thickness, the cut off bit wedged at the side of the blade, which then jammed and slowed, causing the wood to move sideways, to the left. I agree, theoretically it shouldn't have made a difference, but it did.
    Hi Lizzie
    if this happened it's usually an indication that your saw is either not set-up properly or you're not using it correctly. Either is not good.
    Would you like to post a photo of the setup?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Thanks Ian, I appreciate your comment. The machine is otherwise running perfectly. I imagine part of the problem was how I was feeding the timber into the blade.... very carefully! Ha ha. I'm a bit cautious about working without the guard on the blade. The surface of the ply was quite slippery. I like my fingers attached to my hands. It's probably all just rookie error. I haven't used the saw without the riving knife and guard before. Maybe I just had the fence up too close to the blade. I was trying to trim a minute amount off, thinking I'd do it incrementally.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lizziecro View Post
    Thanks Ian, I appreciate your comment. The machine is otherwise running perfectly. I imagine part of the problem was how I was feeding the timber into the blade.... very carefully! Ha ha. I'm a bit cautious about working without the guard on the blade. The surface of the ply was quite slippery. I like my fingers attached to my hands. It's probably all just rookie error. I haven't used the saw without the riving knife and guard before. Maybe I just had the fence up too close to the blade. I was trying to trim a minute amount off, thinking I'd do it incrementally.
    Just to confim... the part of the drawer front running against the fence is the good side, not the part you're removing?

  14. #13
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lizziecro View Post
    Thanks Ian, I appreciate your comment. The machine is otherwise running perfectly. I imagine part of the problem was how I was feeding the timber into the blade.... very carefully! Ha ha. I'm a bit cautious about working without the guard on the blade. The surface of the ply was quite slippery. I like my fingers attached to my hands. It's probably all just rookie error. I haven't used the saw without the riving knife and guard before. Maybe I just had the fence up too close to the blade. I was trying to trim a minute amount off, thinking I'd do it incrementally.
    It has to be asked, why were you working without the guard or the riving knife?
    and trapping the off cut between the fence and the blade is a definite no-no


    none of us want you to loose a finger or three, or to suffer kickback.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  15. #14
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    Jun 2011
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    Woonona Beach, NSW.
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    Ha ha ha! Yes, TCCP, you have just struck the problem! Sheesh. Hmm. That'll do it. Indeed, I was trying to trim the part against the fence. Brains certainly left the body there. Good grief. Sounds pretty stupid now.... ha ha ha. Oh dear. Ah well we live and learn. It worked beautifully on the top of the first door, even if it was a) the wrong thing to do and b) just ridiculously stupid!

    I've realised why I did it....My table saw has actually got a rip capacity which will take the width of the door, just not wide enough to take the length of the door. I'd trimmed the top of the door off in that way, and then had to trim the length of it off, so just followed suit... Geez Joyce.

    Good on you TCCP. No wonder no-one understood what had happened and why! If I wasn't laughing so much, I'd be completely embarrassed! Ha ha ha. Thanks very much.

  16. #15
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    Ian, see above for what happened. Uhuh. I took the riving knife and guard off so I could cut a very fine length off the board. That was how I trimmed the top of the board, which wouldn't have fit in between the fence and blade. Stupidly I just used the same system.

    Nothing to see here folks, move along now.....

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