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  1. #1
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    Default Any tips to tell if this circular saw blade needs sharpening or replacing?

    Any tips to tell if this circular saw blade needs sharpening or replacing?

    Are the photos clear enough?

    A few days ago each one of the tips had a bulging tar/oil build up on every side.

    Used a cheap Dremil take off to remove the tar from all sides as best I could.

    Working on my technique to eliminate burn and blade gouging.
    Seems a faster feed rate and another 2 to 3mm of off feed side relief on the fence.
    And for whatever reason the Triton 2000 fence was loose and bowing away from the blade under pressure.

    IMG_8640.jpg

    IMG_8639.jpg

    IMG_8638.jpg

    IMG_8637.jpg

    IMG_8636.jpg

    IMG_8635.jpg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I'd say it's due for a sharpen. In pics 1 & 2 you can see a bright line where the top meets the face which indicates that it's rounding over.

    Out of curiosity, what are you cutting with it? Triple chip grind, high tooth count and what looks like 0 degree rake says to me that it's a non-ferrous metal blade...

  4. #3
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    Wow!
    So knowledgable!

    Cutting mostly hard woods like Spotted gum and hard wood battens.
    Some ply 6mm, 12mm, and 18mm.
    And some pine 2x4s.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  5. #4
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    I'm a qualified wood machinist and I read tooling catalogues for fun (yes, really)

    In a nutshell, you have the wrong blade for what you're doing; you should be running a timber blade which is ATB (alternate top bevel) with 10-15 degrees of positive rake and fewer teeth than the one you have. This will give you a better surface finish on endgrain, significantly reduce fuzzy edges on the back and bottom of crosscuts (which I'll bet you're experiencing now), be easier to push timber through and probably reduce the gum problem as it will be running cooler.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Nice!
    Thanks heaps.

    Would you happen to have a hyperlink to a specific blade you would recommend?
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  7. #6
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    Yep, it looks pretty shagged to me too! I wouldn't be cleaning carbide teeth with a Dremel. If you haven't got one of the specialist blade/bit cleaning solutions get some 'Simple Green' all purpose cleaner from the big green shed. It comes in a 32 fl.oz. spray bottle. Does a fantastic job of cleaning blades, works best when you immerse the blade just don't leave it in too long. Clean off with an old toothbrush.

  8. #7
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    Can't help you there, the only blades I'm familiar with are industrial grade and they don't come small enough for a Triton (and if they did they'd cost $150+).
    I'm sure it's been discussed here plenty, have a search through the forum and you should find something useful.

  9. #8
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    I just bought a new dedicated 10" crosscut blade for my tablesaw - this one https://www.amazon.com/D1080X-Diablo.../dp/B00008WQ32. It's not one of the industrial ones, the carbide teeth aren't big enough to sharpen multiple times, but it does a fabulous job on crosscuts up to about 70mm and because it's not industrial I didn't have to pay an arm and a leg. Your Triton takes a 9-1/4" blade? If you have a look at CMT, Freud etc. catalogue I'm sure you'll find something suitable.

  10. #9
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    I don't think the ATB exists for the 235mm.

    how about this one:
    Circular Saw Blade 235mm Irwin Marathon Weldtec Handheld Thin 9 1/4" 40t | eBay

    Better yet:
    IRWIN PROFESSIONAL 235mm (9 1/4") 60T CIRCULAR SAW BLADE- WOOD CUTTING 95305 | eBay

    Not sure about the degrees of rake on either.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  11. #10
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    I started with a green bottle of liquid used to remove grime before tapeing / sticking things to glass.

    But it wouldn't clear the tar/oil buildup.

    Went to soft sand paper on the dremil take off.
    Wouldn't take it off either.

    Moved to the copper colored wheel brush.
    Took it off.
    Was careful about holding it there too long.

    Took forever.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  12. #11
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    This video on blade cleaning was done by one of our fellow forum members (Mission Man?)

    CHRIS

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    I don't think the ATB exists for the 235mm.

    how about this one:
    Circular Saw Blade 235mm Irwin Marathon Weldtec Handheld Thin 9 1/4" 40t | eBay

    Better yet:
    IRWIN PROFESSIONAL 235mm (9 1/4") 60T CIRCULAR SAW BLADE- WOOD CUTTING 95305 | eBay

    Not sure about the degrees of rake on either.
    Those are both ATB and they both say so and have an icon for it on the package. ATB is the single most common grind in the world, it exists in every size.

  14. #13
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    I can see that.
    Doesn't show the 10-15 degrees of rake or not.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  15. #14
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    Thanks heaps for all the support gents.
    Much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  16. #15
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    Default

    That's the angle of the face of the tooth relative to a straight line from the centre of the blade to the tooth tip. It's generally not shown, but both your links are in that range. Pretty much every wood blade will be unless it specifically says otherwise

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