Thread: Attaching Checker Plate to trailer

I doubt if the Roads mob would pass it for rego,dont know what they are like in Qld.

QLD Transport don't look at that stuff when getting rego

Does anyone know if VSB1 has any specifics for this area?

No, the VSB1 has no stipulation with regard to attaching the flooring to the chassis.

Unless they're biga$$ pop rivets, I'd be more inclind to tek-screw the sheets down. Pop rivets will tend to break over time.

Tek-screws suit me fine. Easy to use also

I could use stainless rivets but they will get exxy for the area I am needing to cover. And if my air rivetter decides not to pull them, there is no way I could do it by hand

Cheers

If I was to go down the route of welding the floor in, what is the process of where to start etc so as to eliminate buckles?

I did weld a floor into a box trailer once and it ended up with a buckle which was a real pain. My brothers trailer has the same thing

Thanks

Start in the middle, and use tack welds all over then short stitch welds. Ideally a heavy weight on the top will keep the floor hard against the chassis.

Drill holes in the plate and plug weld it. If you aren't too worried about getting the floor off weld it in a few spots and Sikaflex the rest.

what about gluing it down with silaflex with a couple of screws /welds

use sikaflex or silicone to run a bead between the stitch welds for the appearance of it been fully welded and to help the prevention of rusting on the cut edges.(just on the top, not the underside). i recon sikaflex would keep it down but when it does eventuall start peeling off your going to have a great time getting it off to do it properly. in my opinion you don't want screws or rivets, they come lose and become trip hazards, even better if your wearing thongs, .find a bodybuilder not to far from where you live, go see them or give them a call and ask them how it should be. done.

I think i'lll go for the holes in top and plug weld it.

I'll let you know how it goes

Plug welding would be my absolute last option.
Steel to steel, I would stitch weld from underneath and possibly fully weld the seams, although I more than likely would only stitch them too.
Food for thought, the body skins on buses are Sikaflexed on and they don't move. Just make sure that you use the correct type of Sikaflex as there are many types
3/16 rivets and Sikaflex will hold an absolute s?+$%&*d! The rivets are primarily to hold all and locate while the Sikaflex cures.
If you rivet between the raised bars of the checkerplate you wouldn't even know they were there.

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

Plug welding would be my absolute last option.

Why?

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Why?

Reward for effort basically.
You'd need to drill all the holes, then plug weld the sheet to the floor and potentially also grind the plug welds flush. A very good chance that the sheet will buckle sufficiently to rattle annoyingly also, true you could put a bead of silicone or the like under the floor, but you don't want it near the weld area, so more mucking around.
I could have the floor stitched down in less time than it would take to drill the holes.
As an example, you don't see too many truck trays floors plug welded down, unless it is an inner wear liner.
If you should ever wish to replace the checker plate deck, the plug welds will be an absolute headache to remove also.

I have plug welded quite a few trailer floors and had no problems. Beats laying on your back or having to tip the trailer and for most trailers only four plugs are necessary as Sikaflex will do the rest.