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  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Thanks guys for your comments. I know override brakes are 'sub-optimal'; they are only temporary until I can find the time and money to fit electric brakes and a new axle.

    Interesting to learn that mechanical are more problematic than hydraulic. I decided against hydraulic because I was worried about moisture in the fluid, being stored outside and all. I could still go that way if the mechanical setup doesn't work out. Just need to rebuild the wheel cylinders and plumb it up.

    One concern I have with the cables is the inevitable ingress of grit in the sheaths, since they have lost their little bellows. I guess that's why they use naked, straight pull cables, but that won't work here. One more example of why to use standard trailer components.
    Hi Bryan,
    Save your money and fit Hydraulics, that way any vehicle can tow it, get the cylinders lined in stainless, PBR in the city, I think it is, can do that, use a synthetic fluid as it won't draw in water. A couple of mates with LJ 50 Suzukis did this. Protect the master cylinder by using a jam tin with a slot cut in the side to go over the cylinder and lid, stops the UV destroying the lid. When you refit the slave cylinders make sure that the bleed valve goes on top. You'd be surprised at the number of people that do it, even qualified mechanics, a friend who is one, couldn't work out why he had spongy brakes, after reconditioning the callipers, he had them wrong way around.
    Regards
    Kryn

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default Attitude

    How important is it for a trailer to sit level when loaded, and why? Is it only about weight distribution? If you keep a suitable weight on the hitch, is attitude then irrelevant? (Within the constraints of the ball coupling obviously.)

    When I built my drawbar, in a previous life, I set it level when empty, failing to allow for sag. When loaded it squats and sits slightly nose-up. Looks a bit wrong, but does it really matter? The wife's bathroom scale suggests a negligible difference in hitch weight in the range of angles involved, though admittedly that test was done while empty. The pic shows a load of 470kg of fire wood.
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  4. #48
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Hi Bryan,
    Glad to see that it's on the road. Personally I wouldn't worry to much about it, but if you're worried about it, try turning your tongue upside down, it looks to me as being on top. Tow bar tongue that is.
    You could use a piece of 100 X 50 channel, drilled to suit the coupling and welded on.
    Another alternative, a lot more work, would be to either get a spare 2 sets of springs and reset them, reset the ones on it already, or find another spring with a bit more curve and fit it. You can reset them yourself, with a piece of channel or lump of railway line and a decent size hammer, depending on the amount of lift you want, hit the spring about 100 mm apart, in the centre of the gap, with a fair amount of effort, keeping the same amount each time. If you want more lift,hit it 75 mm apart. Measure before starting so that you have an idea of the amount of lift you get. The way I measure is to sit the eyes on the ground and measure to the top of the spring at the centre bolt hole. Do the same amount to each one. The spring centre bolt positions are different, front to rear so make sure they go in the same way. Surprising the number of people that put them in the wrong way around.
    HTH and Regards.
    Kryn

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