Thread: help me get the measurments right????

Probably not the answer you were hoping for, but I would just start again now.

The guards would probably be ok to reuse along with axle, wheels and tyres.

The cancer in the subframe looks pretty serious. Trying to weld to it........yeeeesh!!!!!!!

You wanna replace the drawbar, so why not redo the entire subframe? Do it once I recon.

Just my two cents worth.

To fix that trailer to pass registration will cost around $500 .
Buy this trailer local to you , offer $ 700 .
Trailers 2000 (2004) 8 x 5 Box Trailer with 3 Bike Rack | Other Automotive | Gumtree Australia Gold Coast City - Pacific Pines

Register it as is , then add the cage and box after rego. The draw bar is quite long and will have enough room to mount the box. It does not have to support a lot of weight .

Originally Posted by jatt

Probably not the answer you were hoping for, but I would just start again now.

The guards would probably be ok to reuse along with axle, wheels and tyres.

The cancer in the subframe looks pretty serious. Trying to weld to it........yeeeesh!!!!!!!

You wanna replace the drawbar, so why not redo the entire subframe? Do it once I recon.

Just my two cents worth.

Hey Jatt,

thanks for the comments mate...The sub frame isnt that bad its just one corner really and as for starting again its a budget thing man...hence ill buy a new one in 12mths the right size as this ones on the small side for what i want

Originally Posted by Retromilling

To fix that trailer to pass registration will cost around $500 .
Buy this trailer local to you , offer $ 700 .
Trailers 2000 (2004) 8 x 5 Box Trailer with 3 Bike Rack | Other Automotive | Gumtree Australia Gold Coast City - Pacific Pines

Register it as is , then add the cage and box after rego. The draw bar is quite long and will have enough room to mount the box. It does not have to support a lot of weight .

this is the size im after but short on coin...hmmm 500 to fix? i dont think so I priced the steel today with cage and all for my local steel mechant under 350.00.....

Seriously, do yourself a favour and junk it. It may look ok in some spots but the frame has a severe case of cancer and it'll be falling apart sooner than you think.

I am talking from experience here and have pulled trailers that were better than what you've got there off the road.

Originally Posted by 355tonner

this is the size im after but short on coin...hmmm 500 to fix? i dont think so I priced the steel today with cage and all for my local steel mechant under 350.00.....

Steel $ 350 , welding rods $30 , grinding disks , $20 , sanding paper $20, primer and paint $60 , Bolts , screws etc $30 , lights , wiring , plug $100
The wheel bearings could be shot and pack up soon. Not to mention the tyres and rims If you can get them off without breaking a rusty stud .
The amount of time you will invest in fixing it you could be mowing laws and making money so add that in also.

Originally Posted by Retromilling

Steel $ 350 , welding rods $30 , grinding disks , $20 , sanding paper $20, primer and paint $60 , Bolts , screws etc $30 , lights , wiring , plug $100
The wheel bearings could be shot and pack up soon. Not to mention the tyres and rims If you can get them off without breaking a rusty stud .
The amount of time you will invest in fixing it you could be mowing laws and making money so add that in also.

hey retro,

welding rods...got em
grinding disc...got em
sandpaper......got em
rust kill paint...got it
lights & plugs..they work


so under 350 for sure....plus on holidays from my other job so im getting paid to fix my own ####!!! living the dream...hahahah

now back on topic...does anyone know the sweet spot????

Not quite sure what you mean by "sweet spot"...

Usually, the length of the drawbar is determined by usage. Most are built at the 4' mark from the front cross rail as no tow vehicle is wider than 8', so even jack-knifing it, you wont hit the front corner of the trailer with the back corner of the tow vehicle. And in some states, a trailer less than 10' long (along with a few other factors) doesn't require registration. If you're looking to add the equipment box on the front, then you'll need a drawbar long enough to give you at least 4' from the front of the additional box.

I am, however, in agreement with the others on this, that there's fair bit of cancer in that frame, particularly in the side rails. But without seeing it in person, I'm not in a position to comment further.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted on the progress.

If it were me, I wouldn't spend $35 on that trailer, let alone $350.

Just my 2.2 cents worth.

Originally Posted by 355tonner

hey retro,

welding rods...got em
grinding disc...got em
sandpaper......got em
rust kill paint...got it
lights & plugs..they work

Maybe so, but you had to buy them in the first place, so they are a legitimate cost to include as you will need to replace them before you commence your next project.
Anyway, back to the original question.
That trailer is really not worthy of conversion to anything as it was originally a very lightly constructed trailer and since it's run in with the dreaded cancer is even worse.
If you extend the drawbar then you will need to rewire at least to some extent, so figure on doing a complete job as plugs and lights etc are often not salvagable. $350 does not buy much steel anymore and I assume that you would intend putting a steel floor in, leaving little to cover your drawbar and coupling mounting plate, (if not, a timber floor will quickly eat up $$$$). AND you reckon you will build a crate included in this price as well! Have you factored in new rated safety chains or coupling (if required)?
I appreciate your budgetary constraints, but the chances of that sows ear changing to a silk purse are minimal I'm afraid.
Many people are trying to dissuade you from wasting your money, but it seems that your mind may already be made up.

My two cents . . .
I might be wrong but will continue on the assumption that you want the trailer for a mowing business? If yes, there are a couple of ways you can get yourself a trailer that will last a year until you save to buy a new one . . . which is the result you are after.

Plan A - You continue what you are doing and good on you for that. It's great that you have the talent and the time and are willing to put effort into rebuilding the trailer. There is a lot of satisfaction to be gained from doing that sort of 'therapy'. The unknown factor in this plan though is the budget and if the trailer will cooperate with you and stick to whatever your budget is ($350+). If you blow the budget, it would be money that could've gone to Plan B. The other factor which only you might know, is the time it will take you to do up the trailer. Time (off the road) is money and time that can be better spent on doing other things (see Plan B).

Plan B - You sell your freebie trailer on Ebay for say $150(plus?). Here's a tip . . . a single, from a distance, and slightly out of focus photo might pull in an extra $50 . Add the auction proceeds to whatever cash you can scrape up (trailer reno budget money) and you should have $500+(?) to buy a second hand, registered and ready to go trailer. $500 to $600 should get you a trailer that the will last a year? Instead of doing a MAJOR rebuild of an old trailer, you will have also freed up your time to concentrate on other equally important areas of your business like going out and getting customers . . . e.g. letterbox drops, quoting, website development, etc.
If I was wrong about the mowing business, please disregard the above and enjoy your trailer reno. We'll all be here waiting for your updates (with photos!) Thanks for sharing.
Cheers.

I buit a trailer some time ago with he help of a profesional body builder . His sweet spot was as follows. Distance from trailer axel to tow ball eaqual to 1.5 times the distance from the diff of the towing unit to the tow ball. This will make the trailer follow exactly the path of what is in front.
Rowley.

Originally Posted by Yonnee

Not quite sure what you mean by "sweet spot"...

Usually, the length of the drawbar is determined by usage. Most are built at the 4' mark from the front cross rail as no tow vehicle is wider than 8', so even jack-knifing it, you wont hit the front corner of the trailer with the back corner of the tow vehicle. And in some states, a trailer less than 10' long (along with a few other factors) doesn't require registration. If you're looking to add the equipment box on the front, then you'll need a drawbar long enough to give you at least 4' from the front of the additional box.

I am, however, in agreement with the others on this, that there's fair bit of cancer in that frame, particularly in the side rails. But without seeing it in person, I'm not in a position to comment further.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted on the progress.

Hi Yonne,

I was waiting for you to chime in on this one....So its four foot than ok ill keep that in mind.. Is there a place in front of the suspension shackles that is better for trailer balance?

thanks again mate

TONNER!!!