Thread: Jayco Camper Trailer ceiling replacement

Hi Westaust55,

I dont know if you are already a member or have even seen the site, but there is a forum called myswag.org. There is a lot of camping information on there, and a lot of Jayco users. Give it a try and see what that brings up

regards
Harmful81

Obviously first task is the find the source/location of the leak and reseal.

I would wait with that until you remove the internal ceiling as water can travel a long way and it will be easier to follow the trail from inside.

With most other items removed now, I can see staples at the sides and along (under the sheeting joint trims) the but the big question remains is there polystyrene foam in roof cavity (2004 model) and is the plywood glued to the foam.

Yes, ceiling is glued to polysturene foam, with approx 19mm square timber battens runnin g along the ceiling sides and a few for dividers. There are also sheetmetal plates where there are light fixtures and where the fittings are to hold the door up in transit.

If glued, might warrant using some oil of cloves to “kill” any mound spores (apparently exit mould etc do not kill the spores) and partially sanding back (belt sander) the existing ceiling then glue and staple new sheets over existing.

I helped my son repair a 2000 model Swan, which had this repair done, new ceiling over old, by a previous owner and as a result they never really fixed the leak. We went up to the Flinders Ranges last October and it leaked. We finished removing both new and old ceiling and we were glad we did as it didn't smell too fresh inside that lot.

We also used this opportunity to run some extra wiring for lighting and sound in new channels cut in the foam.

If you are getting a leak through the roof skin, I would be removing all of the seam caulking on the roof and completely recaulking it. Had to do this every 4 or five years with an onsite van, even with no towing etc to weaken the caulking. This is the best way to keep moisture out of the ceiling cavity.

Once you are sure that you have fixed the leak, start work on replacing the ceiling.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Yes, ceiling is glued to polysturene foam, with approx 19mm square timber battens runnin g along the ceiling sides and a few for dividers. There are also sheetmetal plates where there are light fixtures and where the fittings are to hold the door up in transit.

Pulled out some staples tonight and carfully levered the plywood down along one edge to look inside to roof. I can now confirm there is polystyrene sheeting with the ceiling plywood glued to it.

We finished removing both new and old ceiling and we were glad we did as it didn't smell too fresh inside that lot.

@Big Shed, any tips on the best way to remove the plywood and keep the foam intact?
levering slowing has worked for a smaller area so far with a couple of mm layer of the foam remaining stuck to the back of the plywood.

We also used this opportunity to run some extra wiring for lighting and sound in new channels cut in the foam.

That seems like a good idea. I am having ideas on replacing the 16-Watt 2-D fluro type fitting I used to replace the Halogen lights with LED types now. Maybe use say 4 LED lights in place of the original 2 light fittings.

Thanks for the feedback
westy

@Harmful81.
thanks for that suggestion. will investigate the myswag forum as well.


@malb,
yes, I am considering to reseal all avenues for leak on the top side (ie around hatch and full length of centre line between the two aluminium roof sheets). No signs of water near the sides - seems to be on centre line near the two lights.

Have started to remove the ceiling sheeting with a view to ascertaining more precicely where the leak was (which is something I can make a start on by lights in the evening - external roof is a daytime job). The fact that there is foam insulation will slow progress and best I can do is to look at the visible timber with plywood removed to get an idea on extent of water in roof space.

@Big Shed, any tips on the best way to remove the plywood and keep the foam intact?
levering slowing has worked for a smaller area so far with a couple of mm layer of the foam remaining stuck to the back of the plywood.

Use a broad scraper and slowly separate the plywood from the foam.

That seems like a good idea. I am having ideas on replacing the 16-Watt 2-D fluro type fitting I used to replace the Halogen lights with LED types now. Maybe use say 4 LED lights in place of the original 2 light fittings.

No need to replace the existing lights, we replaced the existing globes in the original Jayco lights with LEDs from Ebay with the same fitting. They use less than 1/20th the power of the original globes, that's why we took the opportunity to put some extra lights in.

As we bush camp a fair bit, power consumption is important when running off the 12 V battery.

My son has a 2000 Swan and we have a 2003 Penguin.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Use a broad scraper and slowly separate the plywood from the foam.

Thanks for that tip. I have some assorted width paint scrapers but will visit Bunnings for an extra wide version - I am sure I have seen some about 150 mm wide.

Originally Posted by westaust55

Thanks for that tip. I have some assorted width paint scrapers but will visit Bunnings for an extra wide version - I am sure I have seen some about 150 mm wide.

bar b que egg slicer they have a long handle might make it easier to get in behind the panel

Classic Caravans - Newest Threads
This is a site for caravan repairs and restorations, I am a member there and good advice on your problem
les

@Big Shed,
another quick question: What adhesive did you use to glue the new plywood into place?

@SirCol ,
Thanks for the tip.

Will consider the BBQ slice as an option if other wider scrapers are not reaily available with a longer handle.

@Less88,
Thanks. I will have a look at the Classic Caravans forum as well

SikaBond FoamFix

Available from Bunnings, about $24 per can

...and before you ask

http://www.gunnersens.com.au/product...y-plywood.html

Available on special order, yes you guessed it, Bunnings.

Originally Posted by Big Shed

SikaBond FoamFix

Available from Bunnings, about $24 per can

...and before you ask

Paper and Polyester Overlay Plywood - Plywood - Building Products, MDF, Plywood & Benchtop Surface Materials - Gunnersens Australia

Available on special order, yes you guessed it, Bunnings.

Thanks Big Shed.
Best to ascertain what others have used rather than take a punt based on what I might see on the shelf at Bunnings et al.
Cannot see the SikaBond Foam Fix at Bunnings website but CSS website does give to outlets near me (Wangara and Osborne Park - only couple of km from me).

Thanks for the link to the coated plywood as well. I knew Bunnings and Camec here in WA sell this item.

Regards
westy

You're lucky to find half of what Bunnings sell on their (woeful) website, but our local Bunnings stocks it (Bendigo-Vic) and at least 2 Bunnies in Adelaide (where son lives) stock it.

A brief update for those who may be interested.
I have now:
1. stripped out the stained and mouldy ceiling plywood
2. removed the roof hatch amongst other things found the metal upper lip that the seal mounts on has been bent inwards on the hinge side (likely since original install)
3. removed all the old sealant on the roof from the centreline and side
4. applied new Sikaflex 11FC adhesive seal to the roof joints and roof hatch
5. flooded the roof with water and checked for leaks – all looking good
Also have taken the opportunity to run some extra wires to enable fitting of some extra lights and have a fan fitted at the roof hatch.

Next step will be to install the new plywood (already obtained) for the internal ceiling which I hope to do this coming Saturday using the previously suggested Sikabond foamfix. The original plywood has a paper coating whereas the plywood I have selected this time has a poyester film coating.