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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    34

    Post Low Height Motorcycle Trailer

    Well after alot of lurking and reading, picked up alot of info from Yonnee and Dazzler's posts, I'm gunna build a motorbike trailer for 2 street bikes.

    I've come across some links with some extra info for those who'd like to follow.

    Being a stickler for detail I always like to have the answers to questions before I dive into anything, and after reading the VSB doco on ADR's for trailer build's, it remained unclear as to what steel to use to meet the strength requirement for the drawbar.

    I found this;

    Tongue Strength

    While this has a mostly American flavour there is mention of the Australian requirements for drawbar strength.

    For those like myself who like the nitty details and want to work it out for themselves there is a link to Onesteel's Design Tool for RHS and SHS here;

    DuraGal Capacity Tables,
    http://www.onesteel.com/images/db_im...lows_mar02.pdf

    And for Painted and Plain Steel,
    http://www.onesteel.com/images/db_im...ecs/DCT_CF.pdf

    So for a trailer of 7'x4' ATM 750Kg with 75x50x2mm drawbar will exceed those requirements.

    For the rest of the chassis, I plan on using either 75 or 100 x 50 for the rear member, 75x50 for the front and 50x50 for cross bars. The floor will be either plate or 17mm plywood.
    (The total weight of the 2 bikes will be around 475kg) so I've got room to move on weight of the trailer. Also allowing for a ramp and possibly a spare tyre as well as electrics, tiedown bars etc. (Still not sure what thickness and dimension the gussets for the drawbar should be? As well as covering the ends of the hollow sections?)

    As far as building myself, I enquired as to what I need to do in Sth Aust to register a home built.

    1. Apply for a VIN (Single number or Low Volume) just apply on a form or sign a statement at Service SA requesting a VIN for a home built trailer. - The will issue the VIN on the spot (You will still need a to arrange a proper label for fitting latter.

    2. Once the trailer is built you need a permit (about $7 at time of writing) to get the trailer to pre-registration inspection. Apparently any trailer manufacturer can do this or take it to vehicle inspection at Regency or Lonsdale.

    3. Once passed, you pay for rego at Services SA.

    (I'll let you know how all that goes when time comes - I already have the VIN)

    Bought a MIG welder, got to get some practice in first. If the rain holds off this weeknend have a piece of fence rail to cut up and have a go on.

    Apart from that source/pricing components from several places at the moment and just waiting for some $$$ to come in to make a start.

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  3. #2
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    Tooradin, Vic.
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    Default

    Sounds like a great build. You've certainly done your homework.

    I'll be interested in how you do the channel for the wheels. Most road bike trailers I've seen have the standard 5" wide bike channel, belted with a hammer for the rear two feet to flare it out for the rear tyre to fit. If it's not done neatly, it looks like 'carp'...

    My own thoughts for the next bike trailer I'm going to build is to buy one channel and cut it up to use for the front wheels only, and have the rears located by either short lengths of angle iron or SHS, with the ends cut at 45*.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
    Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Yonnee View Post
    Sounds like a great build. You've certainly done your homework.

    I'll be interested in how you do the channel for the wheels. Most road bike trailers I've seen have the standard 5" wide bike channel, belted with a hammer for the rear two feet to flare it out for the rear tyre to fit. If it's not done neatly, it looks like 'carp'...

    My own thoughts for the next bike trailer I'm going to build is to buy one channel and cut it up to use for the front wheels only, and have the rears located by either short lengths of angle iron or SHS, with the ends cut at 45*.

    Not sure on how to put a channel in yet Yonnee, Several thoughts of full length channel with a narrow 130mm section for the front and a split rear section for the rear just screwed/tacked to the floor (It's really just to stop the rear stepping/bumping sideways off the trailer. - Similiar to your SHS / Angle idea.

    There are some pre built bike holders for that you strap the front wheel in and tie down the back (ie., Discounted Motorcycle Wheel Chocks) - if I just put a 90degree channel at the front of the wheel and and underneath it will hold the bike under a similar concept.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melton
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Hi 15 year old set up bolt in /out..
    for trail bike set.. alum. ramp not in pic..
    have put road bikes on it eg gpz 900s
    Tony....

  6. #5
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by antoni View Post
    Hi 15 year old set up bolt in /out..
    for trail bike set.. alum. ramp not in pic..
    have put road bikes on it eg gpz 900s
    Tony....
    Nice one Tony , Just what I was thinking but the channel up front would be more upright and deeper.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    34

    Default Its a start

    Well after delay in funding. A start has been made - first up I practiced a lot with the welder I got for Christmas.

    So out of some left over practice metal I've built a stand for when I get the frame to a point or 'hanging it up'

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    As opposed to this channel for the front of the trailer to push the Moto into. It's 3mm Mild Steel. Welding it was a POP compared to the DuraGal.

  9. #8
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    So here it is laid out and prep'd for welding, I cleaned the edges with a flapdisk and wiped them down with Acetone. Made welding all the much easier.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    Frame welded up for next stage. I had no room in the shed so I worked on the back patio, The concrete was fairly level, it took a while to get square, but once I finished welding the bottom welds and flipped it over the front member had rotated away from the bottom a little, I had to stand on the side members while welding and had to fill a little with a second pass. (No photo's though)

    Here is the frame done and resting with a shot of one of the welds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bankstown
    Posts
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    Nice welding for a beginner. Just one tip: maybe just a little more heat. I see from the photos that, in places, penetration is a bit lacking. Rule of thumb: the flatter the weld, the better the penetration. Be careful though, too much heat & you'll burn through.

    When welding gal you're supposed to remove the gal first, that way there's no annoying splattering going on, not to mention the toxic fumes TBH the welds on the cross pieces of the stand look pretty good, but keep an eye on the upright.

    As for the dilemma with the channels: Have you thought of simply joining two different sized channel sections together?

  12. #11
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    34

    Default

    Thanks for you comments Wood_Metal - I did some more welding on a little wheel I made to help get the frame/chassis out of the shed. - Clean black steel is so much easier I've now found.

    The front channel is done - see the above photo (earlier post) -as for the rear I think I'll go the way of Tony's trailer with a couple of bits of angle.

  13. #12
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    I thought I had this worked out to the 'nth'. Turns out I've not allowed for the mount bolts for the axle.

    This is what I have for mounting;

  14. #13
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Default

    This is how it looked when I thought I had it all together 'properly'. (I'm not sure if I've got the spacer and fishplate in the right spots). The clearance to ground is only about 90mm - So I've tried to configure the ubolts / spring fitting so other ways. Are these feasible

    ==== Found this in the VSB =====

    21.5 Ground Clearance
    The ground clearance of a trailer measured from the horizontal road surface of any point on the
    underside of the trailer except the tyres, wheel and wheel hubs must, when unloaded, be not less
    than:
    100 mm for any point in the width of the vehicle which is within one metre fore and aft of any
    axle;

    So is this correct - because the wheel will cause the axle to rise/fall the clearance doesn't need to meet the 100mm - and it is within the 1mtr distance
    Last edited by Wood66; 9th March 2012 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Added info regarding ADR

  15. #14
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    Default

    Or should it be like this?

  16. #15
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    Default

    or maybe these two; The second of these 2 photo's I think is a no no, as even when trying to fit it up this way the spring wanted to slip back/forth through the ubolts.

    In one of the instances I think the bottom nut through the guts of the spring even protruded through the spacer - so I dont think that would work either.

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