Thread: Plan B trailer build

leaves are 6mm thick.

other side and front gate on

started on mudguards and side boxes, using the floor from the old Plan A trailer, 2mm thick, so more kg's.

Coming along nicely.

a little more progress,
folding 2mm steel with a hammer is hard work
and I really must update my spreadsheet of weights to see if I'm going to get anywhere near my target of 500kg's

Originally Posted by Franklin

I examined the span and load deflection tables for plywood, and decided that 12mm with 480 span would suit my use of the trailer. I've ended up with 450 spacing, and I have recessed the ply 15mm (so that in future if I think I need thicker I can go to 17mm with just a small chamfer).
purchased axle, springs, brakes, hubs, and a sheet of 12mm structural CD ply. bought australian ply. apparently all australian ply is metric (1200x2400) whereas the imported is imperial (1220x2440).
.

The reasons why many of us use the formply and not CD ply is that it is guaranteed waterproof glue between the plies and the two faces are laminated with a melamine layer. That means that so long as you seal the edges properly they will last at least 10 years and can last much more. Like all bases the longevity has as much to do with how good you are at keeping moisture from sitting on it for any great time - that single catcher load of grass clippings left overnight or longer can bugger either in no time!

I have used formply over steel or aluminium for more than 30 years for a few reasons: a) I find that fitting it is easier; b) it is quieter; c) it takes any load and does not deflect or bend out of shape (as metal often does) - it is forgiving of dropped weight onto it; d) it allows me to screw stop blocks etc to hold odd shapes loads in place (I seal the holes up after!); e) I can easily fit recessed tie down points/ loops; f) if the melamine layer get too broken up you can use a couple of coats paving paint (I add the non slip granules too) that will extend it another couple of years; and g) it is easier to set up removable barriers (also out of form ply) to carry mixed loads (I have a set up that allows me to carry three different loads at one time).

All that to say that if I were you I'd re-think the CD ply and look at form board - you can always find another use for the ply (BTW imported can be metric or imperial. And you can just cut down imperial).

Looks great though!!

Bloss,
thanks for input, got a bit of time till I have to make final decision on floor.

right now I need some advice on hinges for the side box.

I can get some bailey channel with seal from clark rubber (and if i get the side seal then I can decrease the number of folds I need to do) to go around the lip. But where do I find decent hinges?

I could always weld on some standard butt hinges, knock the pin out, get them galvanised, knock a stainless pin back in. But this will look a bit agricultural.

Would prefer some sort of concealed hinge arrangement, some of the kitchen cupboard ones would be suitable, but not sure how they would go with the load.
I am wanting to hinge it on the bottom edge, and I would like the hinges strong enought so that the door can be sat/stood on when opened horizontally, I dont mind a chain stay if needed.

any advice anyone.

I want to sort out this one box first prior to continuing.

Frank

I think I have decided to use tailgate hinges for the side doors.
Not sure if thats really what I want though. Going to stick out a bit.

Is it possable to mount the Tail Gate hinges internally.

I think the seals become the issue if I try to go internally

more progress, the end is in sight for one side .

done one lid, starting to look good. Decided to continue looking for hinges, tailgate ones are too expensive, $9.xx each, for two bent bits of steel and a pin, they look too agricultural too.

Pretty pleased with my folding ability with a hammer now (check out the join on the last photo).

Going to spend this week thinking about the tailgate hinging arrangement, I think I'm going to go for the ability to hinge it top and bottom ie. able to be both a top opening tailgate and a bottom opening (tipper gate).

still stuck on hinges, thought I had found some nice concealed units,
but they stopped selling them years ago they tell me.

probably have to make up my own.

Very close to finishing the bodywork now,
I can see a glimmer at the end of the tunnel.

I ended up getting some 304 stainless hinges from Bunnings .
Now that I have made the hinge decision I have now got one box finished and hopefully the rest will follow.

Lookin' good.
What seals are you going to use for the doors?

Y.

the seal I'm using is the one top middle on this page
Pinchwelds, Bailey Channels, Glazing Channel Seals, Top Blister, Side Blister | Clark Rubber

however I didn't get it from clark rubber, their price was around $14/m, after some chasing I ended up getting it from Industrial Rubber Supplies for about $4/m, saved me some $$ which I ended up spending on the hinges, probably should have chased around for them some more, but i'm getting impatient to finish it and the wonderful wife wants the garage back too.

long time, no update.
I planning on taking it for licensing this week, or next week.
Working on the wiring at present.

have decided to get it licensed before I galvinize (sp?) it. That way if there is any issues, I can cut and weld without worry. I hope there is not any problem with trailers having to look 'respectable'.