Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default Advice on under-bed drawers?

    I'm building a simple sled-bed base. Basically 3x 2.1m lengths of 240x45 KDHW about 800mm apart (queen sized bed) with merbau slats over the top.

    I'm planning on fitting drawers between each runner for linen storage, probably around 800Wx180(ish)Hx1500L.

    However I can't decide on how to fit them.

    If I use drawer slides, they'll have to be loooong to cater for the 1.5m length. The length would also mean I'd need to be extra accurate in ensuring the runners are accurately parallel.

    Although I envisage the drawers being for linen I can't guarantee that something heavier will go in at a future date. And I also imagine that they'll be filled from the "front" first... meaning that when opened fully there'll be a lot of weight and leverage on the first few mounting screws in the slides.

    The other option I'm considering is to build the drawers as independant boxes and mounting them on castors. This has much greater room for error but I'm uncertain about wear & tear on the carpet (short pile), ease of use on the carpet or even what would be the right selection of castor.

    This is a project that I assume many here have already undertaken, so does anybody have some feedback?

    Anything you've done and would do differently next time?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    3,518

    Default

    I would think the box on castors would be the easier option. Castors will do the carpet less harm than the feet of the bed will. In the past when we had a computer desk the office chair wheels were marking the wood floor so the answer was a small rug under the wheels.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tallahassee FL USA
    Age
    76
    Posts
    4,620

    Default

    In lieu of casters, I forget what they're called, but there are really slippery pads used for moving furniture. Probably teflon or such on the bottom, in various sizes, and about 10-15mm thick, so very little height penalty vs. casters.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    72
    Posts
    636

    Default

    Because the drawers will only move backwards and forwards castors are un-necessary and will cause problems when you try to reverse direction. You can just fit simple wheels on bolts as bearings to the sides of the drawer.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    58
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Agree with Bohdan, casters don’t work well particularly on carpet in that situation as they have to rotate 180 degrees with each movement in or out which also causes them to rotate sideways in the movement that can cause them to jam on each other
    Straight fixed wheels work best or I have also done it with 1200 long heavy duty drawer slides but they are quite expensive and a bit More time consuming to set up

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default

    Thanks, fellas. Fixed wheels it is.

    I suspect that you've saved me a headache...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    used to live in Sydney, now it's Canada
    Age
    62
    Posts
    9,780

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    I'm building a simple sled-bed base. Basically 3x 2.1m lengths of 240x45 KDHW about 800mm apart (queen sized bed) with merbau slats over the top.

    I'm planning on fitting drawers between each runner for linen storage, probably around 800Wx180(ish)Hx1500L.

    However I can't decide on how to fit them.

    If I use drawer slides, they'll have to be loooong to cater for the 1.5m length. The length would also mean I'd need to be extra accurate in ensuring the runners are accurately parallel.

    Although I envisage the drawers being for linen I can't guarantee that something heavier will go in at a future date. And I also imagine that they'll be filled from the "front" first... meaning that when opened fully there'll be a lot of weight and leverage on the first few mounting screws in the slides.

    The other option I'm considering is to build the drawers as independant boxes and mounting them on castors. This has much greater room for error but I'm uncertain about wear & tear on the carpet (short pile), ease of use on the carpet or even what would be the right selection of castor.

    This is a project that I assume many here have already undertaken, so does anybody have some feedback?

    Anything you've done and would do differently next time?
    apart from thinking that your bed is structural overkill -- mine has two 200 x 45 rails supporting full width 100 x 25 Tassie oak slats -- I think the easiest way to build your under bed drawers is to use full extension slides attached to 17 mm construction ply 'membranes" stiffened with pine 2 x 4s and suspended from the 240 x 45 rails with joist hangers.
    regards from Canada

    ian

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    48
    Posts
    1,388

    Default

    Europeans have been using divan beds with built in drawers for a few decades now, and these are fairly flimsy affairs only good for holding bedding. The most common method is to fit them on the sides of the bed but frame but some do have them at the foot.

    Why do you want them so long at 1500mm? I mean, I can see you looking to maximise the available space but seriously that's looooong.

    Ok, the divan type drawers would be about 800mm long but they would be fitted with only 500mm cheap pressed steel drawer slides. The reason being that folded linen is quite large and is easily accessible with a drawer only half open, plus the leverage would be reduced. I don't know the maximum length slides available but you could use that principle. If you are concerned about the leverage issue then fit one or two wheels at the drawer front, small filing cabinets use a single caster to prevent them tipping over when the bottom drawer is fully opened up.

    Alternatively, full length extending drawer slides as used in 4WD's are available in really long lengths, and are actually quite cheap.... when bought from overseas!
    "Bananas are an excellent source of potassium" -Homer Simpson

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Why do you want them so long at 1500mm? I mean, I can see you looking to maximise the available space but seriously that's looooong.
    Yep. Each one will have the equivalent of twice the 'normal' under-bed drawers storage. We're hoping to move the bed linens and duvets (the duvets are the space killer) out of the miniscule hallway linen closet so we can use it for more frequently used items such as bath towels.

    Alternatively, full length extending drawer slides as used in 4WD's are available in really long lengths, and are actually quite cheap.... when bought from overseas!
    Yeah, I've been looking at those.

    At the moment I'm inclined to go with fixed wheels on the drawers, but as they can be built separately to the bed-frame I'm keeping my options open. Provided I keep the bed runners truly perpendicular to each other, I can always retrofit slides.

    I do like the hybrid idea of castors on the front though...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    apart from thinking that your bed is structural overkill
    Definitely. And deliberately.

    I'm tired of fixing "flimsy" commercial bed bases.

    Although, after sourcing the materials, I'm actually going with 240x35 runners, not x45. But they'll be made of Blackbutt so weight is increasing. I wonder if I'll need to bolster the floor joists?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    used to live in Sydney, now it's Canada
    Age
    62
    Posts
    9,780

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    Definitely. And deliberately.

    I'm tired of fixing "flimsy" commercial bed bases.

    Although, after sourcing the materials, I'm actually going with 240x35 runners, not x45. But they'll be made of Blackbutt so weight is increasing. I wonder if I'll need to bolster the floor joists?
    I don't think you'd call this queen sized bed flimsy.
    Advice on under-bed drawers?-dsc04215-email-jpg

    the show rails are 6 or 8 x 1.5 Aust Cedar, the slats ar supported on 1.5 x 2 battens glued and screwed to the rails.
    10 years on -- when it was dismantled for storage -- it was still as solid as.

    the key is the joints. Proper M&Ts for the head and foot boards, and bolted dowel joints for the long rails.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    regards from Canada

    ian

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I don't think you'd call this queen sized bed flimsy.
    I wouldn't say it's flimsy at all. After all, the rails/slats are practically the same size as I'll be using. The reason I'm going 240 instead of your 200 is to gain a li'l more height, not structural considerations, as the bed won't have legs or feet.

    The central runner is overkill, admittedly, but it keeps the build minimalist for easy breakdown and transport. We're only renting and I doubt the owners will be too happy with me removing windows every time I want to move a piece of large furniture in/out of the house.

    I imagine that once we set up our own domicile I'll have a completely different set of criteria for the build.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    used to live in Sydney, now it's Canada
    Age
    62
    Posts
    9,780

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    I wouldn't say it's flimsy at all. After all, the rails/slats are practically the same size as I'll be using. The reason I'm going 240 instead of your 200 is to gain a li'l more height, not structural considerations, as the bed won't have legs or feet.
    no legs, no feet

    how are you planning on achieving clearance for the under bed drawers?


    The central runner is overkill, admittedly, but it keeps the build minimalist for easy breakdown and transport. We're only renting and I doubt the owners will be too happy with me removing windows every time I want to move a piece of large furniture in/out of the house.
    a bed should break down into 5 main components, Head board or rail, foot board or rail -- both including the legs or feet -- side rails x 2, slats. all of these should readily fit through doorways and up and down any stairs.
    regards from Canada

    ian

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Hades w/out heating
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    no legs, no feet

    how are you planning on achieving clearance for the under bed drawers?
    It's a sled bed. The runners sit on the floor, with the slats fastened on top like decking over bearers. The ends of the slats will probably overhang the runners by 2 or 3"

    I think 240mm is more than enough clearance; after taking into account castor heights, etc. I should have around 180mm drawer depth. It is a tad shallow for stowing bulkier linens, hence the desire for extra length.

    FWIW, I'd originally planned on profiling the bottoms of the runners on a BS to give the appearance of a very low hung japanese torii... but for a few practical reasons decided against it.

    For now.

    I can always break the base down at a later date and refine the profile should it take my fancy. Or build a different style of base and re-purpose the Blackbutt for some other item of furniture.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    58
    Posts
    63

    Default

    If you mount your casters from the inside of the drawer so that only 10 to 15mm of wheel projects through the base ( carpet type will determine this) you can maintain most of your 240mm drawer unit less tolerances for clearance and drawer base thickness

Similar Threads

  1. Drawers with slide in bottoms - advice please
    By Lappa in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 18th Jul 2017, 09:15 PM
  2. Small drawers in cabinet, advice on clearance needed
    By Bendigo Bob in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11th Jul 2016, 08:29 AM
  3. Chest of Drawers advice needed.
    By DSEL74 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 6th Jul 2016, 09:07 AM
  4. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 13th Mar 2014, 04:37 PM
  5. Advice required on how to cut drawers
    By beeroll in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 14th Oct 2010, 09:08 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •