Thread: Advice on joins for cube wine rack design

I think the best quality way would be to do a dovetail trench across the uprights and do the male dovetail on the end of each horizontal piece . All done with a router and jig for the uprights and for the horizontals use an inverted router in a table, using the same dovetail bit.

If not that way, just trench the uprights with either the same jig type as for the dovetail or do it on a radial arm saw with a dado blade and fit the horizontals straight into them.

Then like you say a floating tenon , plenty of room using 50mm Cedar ( Aussie Red Cedar ?? ) You'd want to stop the trench short of the fronts though . You could cut the tenon from 10mm ply . uses the same jigs as the first two. A jig and router table .

Rob

It may be worth looking at the new lamello joining system, I haven't used one but have heard that complex joinery like your wine rack is made a lot easier.

I'd be looking at slicing (sawing) veneers off your cedar slabs and using them to veneer double thickness MDF or particle board.

I'd then use the strips of cedar to face the shelves.
This will make wiring for the concealed lighting much easier.

as to joints, I'd look at a mix of loose tenons -- biscuits or dominos or dowels -- and knock down fittings

only teh shelves need be strong, the uprights are either much much beefier than required for the load or purely decorative -- eg the vertical "hanging fins"

Originally Posted by jrock_au

It may be worth looking at the new lamello joining system, I haven't used one but have heard that complex joinery like your wine rack is made a lot easier.

JMO, but I wouldn't really call it Complex Joinery, there's just a lot of them.

Steve

Originally Posted by jrock_au

It may be worth looking at the new lamello joining system, I haven't used one but have heard that complex joinery like your wine rack is made a lot easier.

When you say 'new lamella' do you mean the 'invis' system?

Originally Posted by ian

I'd be looking at slicing (sawing) veneers off your cedar slabs and using them to veneer double thickness MDF or particle board.

I'd then use the strips of cedar to face the shelves.
This will make wiring for the concealed lighting much easier.

as to joints, I'd look at a mix of loose tenons -- biscuits or dominos or dowels -- and knock down fittings

only teh shelves need be strong, the uprights are either much much beefier than required for the load or purely decorative -- eg the vertical "hanging fins"

should have included

I recommend that you finish as much of the shelves, supports and fins as you can BEFORE you assemble the structure.