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  1. #16
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    Aug 2017
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    Mt Kembla
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    249

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    G"day Derek looking very nice so far great amount of information.A question on the azebiki saw have you used it to cut any dovetails as I am looking to cut some stopped tapered sliding dovetails by hand and was wondering what sort of saw to use.I haven't seen one before but it could be a solution.

    cheers.....Roy

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    Hi Roy

    In the past I used a dovetail saw. This cannot reach the stopped end of the sliding dovetail, and the last bit has to be chopped out with a chisel. I have not yet tried the azebiki on a sliding dovetail socket as it is fairly new. I think it would be the perfect saw for stopped sliding dovetails (which are no different from stopped dados).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

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    Thanks for taking the time to take loads of photos, looking forward to the next installment.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
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    64
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    212

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    Great work Derek.
    Great photos as well. [emoji1303]
    Look forward to your next installment.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    This is the work completed this weekend. It includes rebating the rear of the carcase in preparation for the back (at the end of the build), tuning up the dados for the horizontal drawer blades, and building the drawer blades.





    Rebating the side panels of the carcase is pretty straight forward. The rebate is 6mm x 6mm. Planing the full width is unobstructed.





    However, where the upper and lower panels need a rebate, planing through will lead to gaps in the panels as these end in dovetail pins. There would have not been an issue here had I used mitred dovetails, but this was an oversight at the time. Now I have a couple of choices, one being that I add a bead around the read panel, however I do not want additional adornments on the chest.


    The decision is made to use a stopped rebate at each end. If completed at this stage it would lead to a weak set of pins. This is where the rebates would end ...





    Instead, they will stop short of the end at this stage, and the remainder chiselled out after the carcase is glued up (glueing up will support the weakened pins) ..





    The ends of the panel are excavated to start and end a saw cut, and then the shoulders are sawn with a azebiki ...








    You do not need to create a chisel wall for the saw teeth if you knife the line with a Japanese cutting gauge or a thickish knife. This opens a wide enough kerf ...





    No guide, just muscle memory...





    A cutting gauge from each side will clean out the rebates ...










    Cleaning up the dados


    The strategy for the dados was to make them 20mm with a power router, which was done, and then fit panels to these. The panels were completed with the assistance of a jointer-planer/thicknesser, and this made it easier to dial them close to 20mm. Final surfacing was with handplanes.


    Although the dados were made with a brand new 20mm straight bit, they were not as precise as I would have expected. A little tuning was necessary to bring them to width.


    The tool of choice here is a side rebate (rabbet) plane. This one is by Veritas. It is in stopped mode to cut to the end of the stopped dado ...





    This was the fit ...





    A total of 40 dados needed to be tuned (that took a few hours!). The drawer blades below are, in fact, for the 24 drawers, and will be cut to fit the compartments.









    The drawer blades


    The design of the chest called for vertical dividers. This would create an emphasis on the vertical. Every apothecary chest I have seen used horizontal dividers/drawer blades as the primary construction. It would have been a lot easier to have done so as well since the bow front could be shaped in, and then the curved drawer blades attached to the carcase. This would have been followed with the individual vertical dividers which, while needing to be aligned, would be straight and uncomplicated to align. Starting with the vertical dividers meant that the bowed horizontal drawer blades presented a complication with alignment.


    I built another template ...





    This was similar to the plan drawn up at the start. It differed in that it represented the drawer blades plus the area seated into the 3mm deep dados.


    Cut to size ...





    The curved ends were removed ...





    ... and a second template made to form the bow front of the drawer blades (above and below) ...





    In the meantime the (horizontal) drawer blades were sawn to size. Not that the grain for all runs across the width of the chest. Expansion takes place front-to-back.





    The sections will still require shaping to a bow ...





    I had a chance to use the mitre gauge I built for the Hammer slider ...





    The shaped merbau drawer blades now need to be given their walnut end faces ...





    These are glued with the aid again of blue tape ..








    The templates from before are now used to shape the ends ...





    And the result is a drawer blade ready to fit into the dados ...





    Fitting next ....


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default Apothecary Chest - part five

    The previous weekend had seen the completion of the drawer blades. There were 24 to make - 6 rows with curved faces.





    The walnut was flushed ...





    ... and then were slid along the dados in the carcase ...





    At this point the build came to a grinding halt. The drawer blades ... dados ... were not coplanar ... level ... damn! We are talking a millimetre here-and-there, but the combination looked terrible.


    What went wrong?


    It was the marking out. I ignored a very simple rule - I failed to use a common reference point. This should have been done with the dividers installed - with the inside base of the carcase as the reference - and not marked outside the carcase.


    I could have repaired the dividers, but I decided to scrap the lot and make new ones, and cut new dados.


    The carcase was repaired. The dados were filled in ...





    Flushed ...





    None of this would be visible when the new dados were made.


    Then I did what I should have done when marking the positions of the dados - made a series of MDF templates, which could be used as left- and right hands ...














    These were used for all dividers, with a line scored by a sharp knife ...





    The power router and guide were used again. Tempting fate, perhaps, but I was convinced that the fault lay with the marking out, and not the cutting of the dados. I was tempted to just do the dados by hand - I do feel more in control with hand tools - but 40 needed to be done in all, and in hard merbau, before the weekend was over.


    I am not going to bore you with pictures of the dados being made. It was the exact same as before ... except this time I did not cut on the wrong side of the line with one!


    Here is the rear of the chest with the drawer blades inserted ...





    And a couple of the front ...





    The dividers and the drawer blades have yet to rebated to fit the stopped dados, nevertheless the shape of the chest is becoming more defined.





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    70
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    2,730

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    Nice recovery Derek. I don't wish to hijack your thread but I wish I could say the say the same about me. Yesterday was one of those days I wish I could replan and rerun also.
    Franklin

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Age
    46
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    229

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    Really enjoying this build Derek.
    Thanks for showing your issues along the way and how you overcome them.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    64
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    212

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    I really felt your pain Derek when you realised it just had to be redone.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzzie View Post
    Nice recovery Derek. I don't wish to hijack your thread but I wish I could say the say the same about me. Yesterday was one of those days I wish I could replan and rerun also.
    What happened to you, Franklin?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Gold Coast
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    70
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    What happened to you, Franklin?
    Lost all my brownie points!
    Franklin

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Well the carcase was finally glued up, everything square as can be ... and I forgot to take a photo of this!


    However, while planing the outside, I discovered that the black walnut required nothing more advanced than a simple single-blade common angle plane. Many years ago I received a smoother from Steve Knight. This was the first occasion I got to use it.





    Just wonderful to work this wood!


    The next step was to complete the vertical dividers. These were inserted and, with some relief, these were square as well. A reward for attention to detail?


    The photo below shows the next steps: the stopped dados need to be extended, and the faces of the dividers need to be shaped to match the angles of the carcase.


    The dados are marked to 12mm from the edge ...





    ... and chiselled and pared away ...





    These were then glued in place (yes, I got that one! ) ...





    During the dry fit I had been careful to fit them flush with the rear rebates, and then saw them parallel. This made it easier to ensure that they were glued square (since the fronts could be flush with the lower edge of the carcase, but not the upper edge, which has an overhang) ...








    Time now to install the drawer blades. These were positioned loose, as before ...





    To fit them to the stopped dados, the front was marked out ...





    Below the rebates are marked and knife walls cut ..





    The first saw cut is across the top to establish the face ...





    Then saw diagonally along the vertical line ...





    .. before finishing on the horizontal ...





    This will maximise obtaining a straight saw cut.





    This is the fit once all is done ...








    The drawer blades will remain loose until the drawers are completed, since they still need to be used as a template for each drawer.





    At the rear of the cabinet, the drawer blades are marked for length and sawn flush (in the photo below, half are flush, with half to go) ...





    All done. Each is marked for repositioning ...





    So that is it for this past weekend. The drawers are next. Curved fronts and compound dovetails. How much fun is that!





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,857

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    Looks great so far.

    I must admit... I do not envy your next step.

    Good luck!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Mt Kembla
    Age
    62
    Posts
    249

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    Great job so far Derek.Looking forward to the next instalment.

    cheers....Roy

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Calwell, ACT
    Posts
    8

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    Thanks, Derek, for sharing each step of your progress (including the occasional cock-up!). It is fascinating for many of us.
    David in Canberra

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