Thread: Apothecary chest

Your first post at Ubeaut! I am honoured. Thanks for the comment

Regards from Perth

Derek

oh, these are much better.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Your first post at Ubeaut! I am honoured. Thanks for the comment

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm a better lurker than writer... [emoji6]
Since I wanted to buy a Hammer K3 I'm reading your posts and this build is exceptional!

Much better. Even the small diameter IKEA ones are at least 24mm projection. I've been thinking any metallic knob was going to remind me of a Naval mine on that curved front. I'd still like to see how a small leather tab might look (smaller than the IKEA ones). The lower the profile of any pull might maintain the visual integrity of the curved front better.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The idea is for the knobs not to dominate ...

Yes, as they sometimes do on fora.....

They will look really good Derek. Secured by a square head brass screw perhaps?

Derek, I wasn't as affronted by the metal knobs as some, though I agreed with you the ones you had were a bit large & domineering. But I think the wooden ones do look quite a bit better, and should certainly be a lot quieter!

Bringing the spigots through & wedging should certainly fix them solidly in position. What I've always done with wooden knobs is make the spigot about half the depth of the drawer front/door and a firm fit in the drawer, then insert a screw from the back. Screws don't hold well in long grain, of course, but by drilling an undersized hole in the knob part, you can get a wedging effect as the screw is driven home. The only advantage this offers over through wedging is that it's easier to remove, should that become necessary. I think I've needed to replace a knob because of damage only once in 30 odd years, so it's hardly a big deal!

Cheers,

Derek a couple more thoughts.. I'm not sure how you managed to drill all the screw holes for the handles accurately on the curved fronts originally, but if you have the slightest doubts about the pulls I would not be boring the fronts for fixing wedged tenons yet. Consider cutting off the tenons and drilling for fixing with a screw.

Cheers,

Hey Derek,

Bit late to the party but would something like this have suited?

https://www.timbecon.com.au/cabinet-...obs-matt-black 19x19?

Originally Posted by Jestar

Hey Derek,

Bit late to the party but would something like this have suited?

https://www.timbecon.com.au/cabinet-...obs-matt-black 19x19?

Thanks for the thought Dane. The smallest at 19mm are the size I was searching for. However the rest (shape and paint finish) is not.

See you at the Show.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Derek a couple more thoughts.. I'm not sure how you managed to drill all the screw holes for the handles accurately on the curved fronts originally, but if you have the slightest doubts about the pulls I would not be boring the fronts for fixing wedged tenons yet. Consider cutting off the tenons and drilling for fixing with a screw.

Cheers,

Hi Franklin

I have doubts that the small diameter at the base of the knob (about 11mm) would sustain a screw and not split. Hence the tenon. It will also be easier to keep the knob square since the baseline comes off a lathe and does not go through the vagueries of being cut off with a saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by IanW

Derek, I wasn't as affronted by the metal knobs as some, though I agreed with you the ones you had were a bit large & domineering. But I think the wooden ones do look quite a bit better, and should certainly be a lot quieter!

Bringing the spigots through & wedging should certainly fix them solidly in position. What I've always done with wooden knobs is make the spigot about half the depth of the drawer front/door and a firm fit in the drawer, then insert a screw from the back. Screws don't hold well in long grain, of course, but by drilling an undersized hole in the knob part, you can get a wedging effect as the screw is driven home. The only advantage this offers over through wedging is that it's easier to remove, should that become necessary. I think I've needed to replace a knob because of damage only once in 30 odd years, so it's hardly a big deal!

Cheers,

Great idea Ian. My thought is that I am not plannning to glue the tenon/spigot, but just hold it with the wedge. I shall make extra knobs for the "in case". If needed, the damaged knob will be cut off and the tenon simply knocked through the drawer front. I think it will be easier to insert a wedge than a screw, but for a minute or two, I was going to do it. Any thoughts?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

Much better. Even the small diameter IKEA ones are at least 24mm projection. I've been thinking any metallic knob was going to remind me of a Naval mine on that curved front. I'd still like to see how a small leather tab might look (smaller than the IKEA ones). The lower the profile of any pull might maintain the visual integrity of the curved front better.

Actually, I did consider the leather tab at one time. Not from Ikea, however. Still like it, but in the end I wanted something that blended in, like wood. Of course, that was before I became waylaid by iron!

Regards from Perth

Derek

I must be different,
I liked the metal knobs I enjoyed the contrast,
the timber ones look like they blend in to much.
I will now erect a shield lol,
But really enjoying following this Derek thank you.

Cheers Matt,

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I have doubts that the small diameter at the base of the knob (about 11mm) would sustain a screw and not split. Hence the tenon. It will also be easier to keep the knob square since the baseline comes off a lathe and does not go through the vagueries of being cut off with a saw.

I guess it depends on the timber. I turned these with a base about 20mm, pre drilled and fixed with a 6G coarse thread screw. They are fine. I don't have a very good drill press so I would be more worried about boring the 3/8" holes for the tenons all square and in line. I'm concerned that with all the effort you have put in so far that committing to a knob you may not be 110% sure about there is no room to change your mind later.