Thread: Art Deco Rounded Dovetail Detail

Thanks Graeme

Rather than waste half the thickness of each board, the other approach would be to cut about two inches (50 mm) off the end of each board.
and then fold each 2 inch block back on itself and glue to the back face of the board.

the disadvantage if this approach is that the bulges each end of the board would make aligning the 2nd board when transferring the dovetail layout a bit tricky.

Graeme, that is brilliant. Thanks for posting.

I must confess that something like this is for me extremely daunting, and I take my hat off to anyone who manages it, especially hand sawing the dovetails.

Another issue is how to finish the interior surfaces (since I assume they are to be seen - the interior if my coffee table will not be seen). The waste would be removed by a bandsaw, which has a limitation in regard to resaw height. I assume that this has to be done after glue up - yes/no? Then smoothing the interior ... scrapers, sanding ... ? It would not be possible to hand plane.

The drilling would be a challenge for the best drill press, not only for accuracy, but for depth.

Perhaps this could be done with a CNC machine ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

Good Morning Derek

The rounded dovetail was on each of the four corners of the carcase of a small Krenov inspired display cabinet in Tas sassafras, so that the inside dovetail was reasonably visible, especially when the doors were open. I don't know the maker and suspect that I was not given full information, perhaps even some disinformation.

A fuller explanation of what I was told is:

1. Cut all dovetails,
2. Assemble carcase dry and clamp,
3. Clamp sacrificial plug in corner and drill out with forstner bit, [I didn't question whether he drilled from one or both sides]
4. Disassemble carcase and thin sides between drill grooves,
5. Cut rebate for back of cabinet,
6. Reassemble, glue and clamp,
7. Plane dovetails flush and then route the round over.

It might be feasible to cut the inside curve after the dovetails are cut by routing with a round nose cove bit. But breakout and alighnment would be issues.

Sorry I cannot be more specific but I am reporting from a limited hearing and seeing, certainly not a doing (yet).


Cheers

Graeme

1. Clamp sacrificial plug in corner and drill out with forstner bit, [I didn't question whether he drilled from one or both sides]

Graeme, I cannot imagine the set up required to achieve the accuracy to drill the full length (say 400mm). I also cannot imagine being able to drill this depth with a drill press (certainly not mine - I might get 150mm out of mine). Drilling from each side sounds more feasible, but this, too, requires high levels of precision. Either a number of jigs were utilised, or it was by a CNC.

I would love to know. It is an interesting concept.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek

It was a small Krenov type cabinet, only about 120 - 150 mm deep. Drilling is feasible, but certainly daunting.

Perhaps a first try should be a very small jewel Ray box?

I have been thinking about it for a year, have many solutions that won't work. The requirement for absolute precision on that inside corner seems almost insolvable.

Nor can I envisage the set up on a CNC.



Cheers

Graeme

Definitely not CNC, they don't have that much space unless you're talking about multi-million dollar machines.

If it's started accurately in a drill press, it could be finished by hand with an auger bit of the same size; the existing 100-150mm of hole would be enough to keep the bit straight.

Hi All

Now way outside my experience. Would it be possible to use or modify a moulding plane with a round profile to shape inside the dovetail? Perhaps something like this:
https://hntgordon.com.au/collections...d-round-planes


Cheers

Graeme

Hi Graeme

I plan to glue in a triangular filet, and then use a round moulding plane to shape the inside of the curved end ... similar to the HNT Gordon planes (I was hoping SOMEONE would send one for Christmas .. alas )

Regards from Perth

Derek

Mount a trim router aligned on the diagonal of a squarish angle frame, the frame to ride along the inside corner.

Use a ball-end router bit.

Add waste blocks at each end of the height - limited by the length of the power cord.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Graeme

I plan to glue in a triangular filet, and then use a round moulding plane to shape the inside of the curved end ... similar to the HNT Gordon planes (I was hoping SOMEONE would send one for Christmas .. alas )

Derek
how long is the bed of your lathe?

It strikes me that the easiest way to shape the inside curve is 80 grit paper on a mandrel of the right diameter.

Good Morning All

Just stumbled on a youtube of someone making these rounded dovetails using a bandsaw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OLDMLEfhmQ


Makes it look real easy !



Cheers

Graeme