Thread: How should I attach base to dining table

Here's 17 ways...

17 ways to fasten a tabletop

The traditional and time proven method https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/TabletopsFlat.pdf

At 50 mm thick and vic ash the top will weigh something like 50 kg and should be pretty stable movement wise.
My inclination would be to attach the top using a single 20 mm dowel each end to stop the top being pushed off the base.

If you really want to use those inserts I'd only use one each end, again just to stop the top being lifted off the base.

50mm vic ash is the sort of stuff used to build bridges capable of supporting a B-double.

Aside from attaching it... is there any reason you're only going 800 wide? You'll barely get 2 place settings opposite each other, never mind things like dishes of food in the middle.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Aside from attaching it... is there any reason you're only going 800 wide? You'll barely get 2 place settings opposite each other, never mind things like dishes of food in the middle.

aren't you being a little tough there.
800 wide should be wide enough for two place settings opposite each other plus the pepper and salt. But also fitting in the tomato sauce might be a stretch

Thanks guys. I think I might stick with the threaded insert as it seems easier.

ian - as to having just 2 threaded inserts, one on each end - is there any issues with the top cupping/staying flat if there arent more?. I dont plan on doing breadboard ends - I just want to keep it simple as its my first woodworking project outside of making picture frames for photos I enter into art shows (and I only make them myself as its cheaper then to get them framed). (I suppose Ive made some cabinets/work bench for the shed but they're not 'nice' things and I didnt care if I made mistakes)

as to 800 wide - i just thought of it when I wrote this thread. What are you're suggestions? Would like it wide enough to be able to seat people on the ends too - will 900 or 950 be enough?

I would say 900 is the smallest you could go and still be fairly comfortable, but anywhere between 900-1000 is good for a table of that length.

I have a table I designed and made about 10 years ago out of European White Oak, this is 1050 mm wide and is about 25mm thick ( I don't have a B-Double .

I chose that width as I have found it is a good width to hold a conversation across the table when there are a few people seated, and this still gives room for dishes, bottles etc in the centre of the table.

The top is fixed with figure eight fasteners, which are low cost and very simple to fit, choosing quarter sawn material for the top will also limit unwanted movement.

Regards

There are many methods. I've, personally, used two.

The simplest is to just drill holes through your stretchers and use round head screws in deeply countersunk holes, screwing directly into the table top. I worked in a commercial furniture shop for a while and they would do this on very large table tops. I, again, personally, thought it was bad practice to do it on a top that large. A table top the size of what youre talking about can move quite a lot, and screws can be unforgiving in that sense.

I am of the opinion that "shrinkage buttons" are probably the best possible way to do it if they will work in the style table you're building. It has to be something with an enclosed or partially enclosed skirt around the underside of the table. The article above may mention them. I learned about them in "The Essential Woodworker" by Robert Wearing from Lost Art Press (Great book).

There are some do's and don'ts, but the foremost thing is don't use glue. You want to use some form of mechanical fastener so that it can move around. Chances are that screws will be involved in some way.

Good luck,
Luke

I should've just looked at the article... First suggestion is "button fasteners". This is what I call "shrinkage buttons".

One thing I'll add is that, for longevity, you want the grain of the button to be oriented such that it runs along its length and not its width. In other words, the thinner section that actually fits into the mortise... You want the grain running parallel to that.

Cheers,
Luke