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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Ireland
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    46

    Default Brown Oak Burl for Georgian kettle stands ?

    I have always wanted a nice pair of diminutive Georgian kettle stands but can't find them in the small sizes or at a price I can afford. So I'm going to make them....

    I have a few nice pieces of brown oak burl 2" thick but it has the usual faults that can be common I believe, I actually don't really want a "perfect surface" so I'm hoping the shakes in the oak would be acceptable ? I have attached images below of the actual stock and on the right the dished result I'm hoping for.

    Anyone know if this is workable for a dished top like the mahogany one shown on the right ? I will be "ageing" the little stands once finished.

    s-l500 (2).jpgantique-18th-century-mahogany-kettle-stand.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
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    2,745

    Default

    Try it. I don't think you would have any problems, but if you did, it is a learning curve.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    4,396

    Default

    I make round table tops out of similar Oak . Ive never dished one of the gnarly figured Oak ones like your doing though . Id just tap in good fitting grain matched wedges first. What is to fine for wedges use saw dust and glue .
    Are you turning them on a lathe ?
    Rob

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ireland
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    46

    Default Kettle Stand

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    I make round table tops out of similar Oak . Ive never dished one of the gnarly figured Oak ones like your doing though . Id just tap in good fitting grain matched wedges first. What is to fine for wedges use saw dust and glue .
    Are you turning them on a lathe ?
    Rob
    Thanks Rob. When inserting the wedges is it best to take out a little of the original material to allow easier fitting ?

    I don't have any turning facilities as yet, I am going to be using a friends pole lathe....I'm really not sure how that grain will work out though !

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    4,396

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anotherplane View Post
    Thanks Rob. When inserting the wedges is it best to take out a little of the original material to allow easier fitting ?
    Yes, If it makes it easier to fit.
    If it takes lots of small wedges then do that rather than one or two. What ever suits to glue it up as long as you don't pound them in to hard and push things apart. Sometimes I put in patches if the damage is to big . Its all worth it though because some of the roughest knotty wood have made some of the best tops. I know this because they sell the fastest . I don't have to try they just fly.




    Quote Originally Posted by Anotherplane View Post
    I don't have any turning facilities as yet, I am going to be using a friends pole lathe....I'm really not sure how that grain will work out though !
    Take fine cuts .Your going to run into knots every time they come around. More power would be better but it will probably work .
    Ive never used a pole lathe .You could always rout down and just do the last inch perimeter on the pole lathe maybe ?

    Rob

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anotherplane View Post
    I don't have any turning facilities as yet, I am going to be using a friends pole lathe....I'm really not sure how that grain will work out though !
    Sharp tools, light cuts. Keep the grinder close to the lathe and don't be afraid to use it every few minutes. Burls tend to take the edge off tools fairly quickly.

    Before roughing into shape try dressing the top surface to get a feel for the wood.

    If this test run results in lots of tear-out, try again but using a scraper instead of a gouge, some timbers cut better that way.

    There is no shame in resorting to the 80 grit gouge. (ie. sandpaper. A 'perfect finish off the tool' is machinist elitism. )
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ireland
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    46

    Default Oak Burl

    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post


    You could always rout down and just do the last inch perimeter on the pole lathe maybe ?

    Rob
    That's a good idea....and it would be fun going from a screaming router to the tranquility of the pole lathe !

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Ireland
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    46

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post

    There is no shame in resorting to the 80 grit gouge. (ie. sandpaper. A 'perfect finish off the tool' is machinist elitism. )
    True, and sometimes you just have to find a way to make it work...

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