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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Default Building a 8 ft long Jarrah table

    I am currently building a 8 ft long table for a forum member. I have built a number of 2m+ long tables but this is BIG. I reckon a project like this is not something you should take on unless you have the experience, tools and space.

    Finding the timber
    I prefer to use 1 piece of wood to building my table legs rather then gluing 2 pieces together. So my first step was to find around 4m of 4x4 (100mm X 100mm). 4x4 hardwood poles are hard to find these days. Timberyards don’t like to stock them because they tend to crack internally.

    After a few trips to Anagote and Ironwood, I found some Jarrah from Anagote. They also had some beautiful long boards for the top and rails.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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  3. #2
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    Making the legs

    The legs were milled to 80mm square and then cut to 75cm in length. I tapered the inside of legs. It started from 30 mm below the rail and finished at 65mm square at the bottom.

    The rail-to-leg joint
    I used the Domino. I cut a mortise to max 28mm deep. Since the biggest domino available is 50 mm, so I made my own out of jarrah. They are 56mm long and 10mm thick.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  4. #3
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    Gluing the base

    I cut the mortises (Domino) on the top side of the rails. They are for the buttons to go into when I attach the top to the base later on. It is much easier to do it before the base is glued.

    When I did my first table, I glued the base together in 1 go. I had to work very fast and I found it really difficult to keep things square.

    Now I do it in 2 stages. First I glue the legs to the short rails then I glue them to the long rails.

    Keeping the legs vertical and the rail square

    As you apply pressure to the top of the legs, the bottom will spread. So I clamped a piece of timber to the bottom of the legs to make sure the legs are parallel. I also clamped a piece of MDF to the top to make the frame square.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #4
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    Default

    Sorry, I forgot to mention that the rails are 95mm high and 35mm thick. A rail in that size has to be strong. One way to test its strength is to sit on it in the middle. It didn’t sag at all, so it is good.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #5
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    To pin or not to pin

    I decided to pin the joints with a dowel peg and cover it with a Wenge plug.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
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    Default

    First coat as a sealer

    I used 50% turps and 50% poly as my first coat. I used it as a sealer.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  8. #7
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    Building the top

    I would leave the base alone for a while and started working on the top. Before I did that I thought it would be a good idea to sharpen the jointer and thicknesser blades. So I took my Tormek out and did some sharpening.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  9. #8
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    Dec 2004
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    Default

    Wongo,

    You are a master
    I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be.

    My Other Toys

  10. #9
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    Default

    Flattening the boards

    The top will be 2.5m long so the boards I am working are 2.7m long. I chose them very carefully at the timberyard. I made sure they were flat and straight enough. I also bought 1 extra board as backup.

    Mark the boards with a chalk so you can easily monitor the progress.

    The boards started at 40mm thick. After going through the jointer and thicknesser for 3 hours, they were 31mm thick and flat. (And I was absolutely exhausted).

    That’s it for today.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
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    Oct 2008
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    Default

    Awesome. I can't wait for the next exciting installment.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Very nice Wongy.
    I need to make a 2m table and was thinking of using some Studley stuff. Has anyone tried mitred legs ie hollow box section instead of solid I would still glue a plug into the joint area and perhaps the bottom section. How big do you reckon the rails should be for 2m.

    Mike

  13. #12
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    Default

    Looking good Wongo.

    One thing though: 2.5 is only 8'4". Are you adding breadboard ends to make it 10ft?
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Nannup, WA
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Hi Guys
    I am new to this group - used to mess around on the Wrec. a few years ago though.
    So excuse me if I mess up a bit on some protcols.
    I have a small furniture workshop/gallery in Nannup WA and work in Jarrah and Marri

    This is a good job Wongo,
    A table that big in Jarrah is a big job - and very satisfying.
    I make quite a few tables - although dont like going over 2.400 long due to the logistics of handling them.

    Although tend to make the legs up to around 140 sq with the top at around 40mm - so making them shockinly heavy.
    Also do the legs as a breakdown fiting - apart from making the whole thing easier to manipulate, specialy if they being transported to the Eastern States or wherever.

    A big chunky Jarrah table is always an eye catcher.
    Well done

    Phully

  15. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    Looking good Wongo.

    One thing though: 2.5 is only 8'4". Are you adding breadboard ends to make it 10ft?


    Oh oh oh, how the hell did I get 10ft??

    First in maths right?



    Sorry xxxx, I made it 2 ft too short. Nah, 2.5m is right.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    Very nice Wongy.
    I need to make a 2m table and was thinking of using some Studley stuff. Has anyone tried mitred legs ie hollow box section instead of solid I would still glue a plug into the joint area and perhaps the bottom section. How big do you reckon the rails should be for 2m.

    Mike
    Mike,

    I made this one out of Studley's hardwood pack.

    The legs were made from 3 pieces of wood. If you do a good job then the gluelines are pretty much invisible. I did it because it was a low budget table.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/album....&pictureid=868
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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