Thread: Chunky Dining Table

That's an interesting table. I am not sure what to say for your finish but do agree that wax is not going to cut it.

So how many people does it take to move one of the legs? How strong is the floor?

Originally Posted by Christos

That's an interesting table. I am not sure what to say for your finish but do agree that wax is not going to cut it.

So how many people does it take to move one of the legs? How strong is the floor?

Hi christos, thanks for looking at my table .

The legs are light enough to carry by one person since they are hollow, and I could probably carry 2 at a time stacked on top of each other. More than that and it gets a bit heavy plus you can't see where you're going. (They don't have concrete in them)

The table top is another story however. without the glass it takes 3 people. I carried it with my brother and it was hard work!

The floor seems to be holding up, have there been cases of tables/pianos falling through the floor?

Would wipe on poly get rid of the rustic feel? I will research finishes some more.

Originally Posted by Bouncingmolar

Anyway.. I"m stuck. I'm not sure how to finish it. I've been trawling the finishing area, and wax sounds easy, and nice, but not so durable, and given my history of maintaining things I"d probably not rewax it much. I like the rough look, its a shame I can't just tell everyone not to dribble when they eat.

Sand it and oil it .

Very unusual table. I think your wipe on poly idea is pretty good, easy to apply and with a few coats fairly tuff. Or a few coats of 50/50 estapol and turps. Either will give you a feeling of not much finish but will stop the wood from staining from your dribbling friends. If you ever want to freshen it up a light sand and another coat fixes anything. As does oil too of course.

Manuka, why oiling? Is it better than waxing?

I've been looking at other people projects and maybe I'm confused, but some say they use a combo of stuff. Can you put wax/oil under poly or do they put it on top. I'd have thought wax would make poly not stick. eg: Blackbutt Wedding Shaker Table - by Daniel @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community (not quite the finish i'm after, but interesting anyway)

Thanks for the hints Hama

Bouncingmolar,

Not better so much as different.
I take it from what you said that this is a working table , meals etc .
That means that warm/ hot things will be put on it .
Plates etc will be slid across it .
Wipe downs with a warm wet cloth will be on the cards too .
So it will need a bit of TLC every now and then

Re-oiling is easier than re-waxing , and repairs to the surface are more easily fixed too.
Oil finishes can be brought up to a high shine , but not the high gloss that waxes get .
Oil soaks deep into the wood , wax sits on the surface .
Oil feeds the wood .
.
In the end it depends on what look you are after , and also how fine and detailed you sand the surfaces .

Jock

PS.
Wax can be applied at anytime after oiling quite easily . Oiling after wax is not so easy .

Oil and polys are better than waxes as far as I know its the waxed finishes that will be most likely to get "ring" damage from hot cups etc.

OK,I've been doing some reading, and it seems danish oil is the way to go if oiling. However, I also saw that penetrating resin is extremely durable and still preserves the natural look of unfinished wood.

TLC Home "Guide to Furniture Finishes: Tips and Guidelines"

Any tips for for this type of finish? I think the above guide sounds pretty easy. I'll see if I can find some at Bunnies.