Thread: Coffee table legs

Should be fine

Agree with elanjacobs. Provided you have a good fit between the pieces you are gluing together, you will be fine.

Thanks.

While I'm here, I really like tapered legs but I want it to be reasonably strong. I have no idea how much tapering the legs may reduce the strength if at all.

Actually I'd appreciate any comments about what aspects are more or less important to the strength of a table. How much is the aprons (the sizes?) and joints compared with the legs say. I can't explain well but relative sizes of parts I guess.

Tapering makes no difference to strength at all.

The most important aspect is the leg-rail joints, followed by how the top is attached. The sizes are fairly inconsequential for a coffee table, it's mostly aesthetics; 40-45mm square legs with a 10-15mm taper and 70-90 x 22mm rails are pretty standard.

Thank you for that.

Again, elanjacobs has nailed it. How do you intend to fasten the legs to the rails?

I am going to try mortise and tenon but simplified a bit. I want to find a balance between attempting something out of my league - and failing - and playing it too safe - and ending up with something I'm not proud of.

Very early after I started I made a little table with mortise and tenons without cheeks. It was the second thing I ever tried. It was a learning process and I succeeded on my third attempt at the legs. I stuffed up with the top but I was extremely proud of my results. I made a tapering jig and tapered the legs on two sides and did breadboard ends, though one of them had only a top because I somehow stuffed up my markings. (That's from my learning disabilities though so I have to accept that sort of thing will happen.) I even made my own table attachments and the dowels. I wasn't worried about size and strength though or having to do things again.

Since then the only thing I have made is boxes with mitred corners. I am thinking that the same design is the way to go but bigger. Will see how it goes I guess. I glued the top and legs and am happy with the results but I haven't started on joinery yet.

Any advice welcome

I think I meant without shoulders for the tenons.

Some time ago I made three desks for my grandchildren. The rails were thickened at the ends and triple biscuited to the legs, as noted in the pic.

Joinery.jpg

Before making the desks I tested the approach by making one of these joints using off-cuts of the cedar in the desk frames/legs. Then I tested the joint to destruction. The joint held. The legs split from the top, along the edge of the biscuits. That's good enough for me. The same method was used for my dining room table; 16 years and two house moves ago (although I did block the corners). It is as sound as the day it was built.

These days I use a Domino and floating tenons, but there is not a lot wrong with properly made biscuit joints, even for table/desk joints.

Thanks.

Got back to the coffee table today after finishing a box for my sister's birthday yesterday. I hadn't actually considered biscuits. I know mortise and tenon isn't the obvious choice considering my lack of experience but I feel more confident with the choice than with biscuits.

I've found that avoiding measurements, whenever possible, is best since I make many little mistakes with measurements. I know everyone does at times. I definitely do so more often. Writing and reading, I tend to flip the order of digits around and stuff. To have to put slots exactly opposite and in line is just asking for trouble. With a m&t I can match the second part to the first which for me is easier. I have also done floating panels in the top of the last couple of boxes. I've never done biscuits.

?? I was actually thinking that doing through mortises might be the way to go - I would have a bit of leeway with the length of the tenons. It would be easier to adjust any mistakes because as long as the distance between opposite legs is equal it will work. I managed the breadboard ends today. Kind of mortise and tenon.