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  1. #46
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    The colour variation I saw was the reason I asked the question. Looking back at the picture of the long section of timber and reading your explanation again I can see that it is indeed a crosscut section.
    Cheers.

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  3. #47
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    When you selected the washer for use as a template to round over the joints, did you select one sized with a common centre to the fillet's radius or just "pick something larger?"

    In the pix the corners look a bit 'chunky' to me... I can't tell whether it's just an illusion caused by the different grain/colours in each bend or whether the thickness is actually larger around the radiused bend.

    (Not being critical of your work, I find it admirable & am following with interest. Yet something catches my eye every time I scan through the pics and I can't quite put my finger on why. )
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #48
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    Jun 2018
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    Brisbane, QLD
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    Thanks Ian, I can see that now I’m at a computer rather than my phone, thanks for showing me the right pic! I’ll definitely be keen to see what Derek does from here. Thanks again!

  5. #49
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    When you selected the washer for use as a template to round over the joints, did you select one sized with a common centre to the fillet's radius or just "pick something larger?"

    In the pix the corners look a bit 'chunky' to me... I can't tell whether it's just an illusion caused by the different grain/colours in each bend or whether the thickness is actually larger around the radiused bend.

    (Not being critical of your work, I find it admirable & am following with interest. Yet something catches my eye every time I scan through the pics and I can't quite put my finger on why. )
    Shewie, you have eyes of a hawk!

    I used a larger washer, and set it for the same thickness as the carcase. However, it turns out that the corners are 22mm and the carcase is closer to 20mm (a fat 19mm). I am disinclined to mess with it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #50
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Finishing the base ..


    Splayed legs leave their tops angled with the rails, and they need to be flushed ...





    ... to be coplanar on both sides ...








    The next step was to add corner reinforcing blocks. These were glued and screwed ...





    You can see they follow the angled rails (created by the splayed legs).


    The under side ..





    The final stage was to level the legs. Measure the height at each corner, and use wedges under each leg until the height is the same for all ...











    Hot glue the wedges so they do not move ...





    Once done, scribe the bottom of each leg ...





    Electrician's tape is great for marking at an angle ...





    Saw off the waste, and we are done ...





    I checked the result with a digital angle box. All good. Sanded to 240 grit ...





    The drawer and finishing is left to do.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #51
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    It is now beginning to look like something familiar ....





    The legs appear pretty strong and solid. No flex.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Finishing the base ..


    ........

    Hot glue the wedges so they do not move ...





    Once done, scribe the bottom of each leg ...





    Electrician's tape is great for marking at an angle ...





    Saw off the waste, and we are done ...
    .........

    Looking Good, Derek

    I have a slightly simpler way of trimming the legs level and equal, which does not involve any marking or measuring, as follows:

    Step 1. Wedge, level and hot glue, exactly as you do,

    Step 2. Slip "shoe" of appropriate thickness around a wedged leg,

    Step 3. With flush cut saw on top of shoe, cut about three quarters the way through the leg,

    Step 4. Repeat for all legs,

    Step 5. Complete the cuts on all legs.

    It is important that you do not cut right through the legs in steps 3 and 4 as this would cause the set up to wobble.

    The drawing below might help, showing steps 1 and 2 sequentially.

    Leg Trimming.jpg



    Cheers

    Graeme

  9. #53
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    Perth
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    Hi Graeme

    That would be a more secure way of doing it, and it would be recommended for anyone who is uncomfortable with handsawing. But it does require extra steps, such as making a "shoe" to the required thickness. That takes time. I do like it.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  10. #54
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    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    ........ But it does require extra steps, such as making a "shoe" to the required thickness. That takes time. .......
    Hi Derek

    True, but it only takes time the first time. I have four "shoes" hanging on the wall - 3, 5, 6.5, & 12mm - and they can be stacked using a tiny bit of two sided tape.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  11. #55
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    Last time the base was completed, and we had a quick look at the parts together. It is not fully sanded yet, and no finish obviously. It feels very solid in the legs - I know there were some that were concerned about the 10 degree splay ....





    The - almost - last lap is here, the building of the drawer. I do not want to bore the pants off all with yet another dovetailing, so rather here are some pictures of the decisions and tasks that need to take place for a well-fitted drawer.


    The first decision was to choose the wood for the drawer front, and the panel at the other side (the drawer will open on one side of the coffee table, and the other side will be a fixed panel similar to the drawer front).


    There is just enough of the Fiddleback Jarrah for these panels. The orientation of the figure needs to be chosen, otherwise it will look like a dog's breakfast ...








    It is beautiful wood, but very interlocked. The double iron works its wonders ..





    The length is short enough to joint on a shooting board ..





    Mark the width ..





    ... and shoot to the line.


    The ends are squared ...





    I frequently read how important it is to have a backing board when shooting end grain to prevent spelching. This is not important at all. The best strategy is to score the line you will plane to, and then add a chamfer at the end. Use the shooting plane for this ...





    Now plane until the chamfer disappears ...





    No spelching ...





    The fitted drawer front ...





    ... is tight to the sides and has about 1mm gap at the top.


    The back board of the drawer, and the rear panel ...





    These are the drawer parts: the front is 19mm thick, the quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak sides are 10mm (slightly thicker than my usual 8mm as it needs to be a little beefier) and the rear is 12mm ...





    A peek at the drawer ...





    All the details in the last chapter next time.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #56
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    Oct 2013
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    Perth, Australia
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    Been away for a while, just devoured this whole thread! Great read, thanks for allowing us to follow along in such detail. Especially liked the details around the mitered dovetails and the construction of the base!

    Very excited to see the finished product [emoji106]

  13. #57
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    This was the model for the coffee table my nephew chose when I offered to build them a wedding present ...





    Let's see how we did ....


    Before the coffee table was assembled from the parts, I was mindful that it would be shipped from Perth to Sydney (which is the further than New York to LA). The main concern was that the container might bounce (be dropped or be handled roughly), and the weight of the heavy Jarrah top coming down on the splayed legs might cause them severe damage. (I am not concerned about the strength of the legs for normal home use - the construction is strong. More shortly).


    So, I build a table out of MDF that could be placed under the coffee table, and would take all the weight ...








    The top and base were connected with steel angle brackets ...





    Part of the strength in the splayed legs comes from the corner brackets, which act to lock in the mortice-and-tenon joint by preventing movement. These steel angle brackets further lock in the base from any possible twisting.


    The brackets are angled to 10 degrees to match the inside of the rails ...





    Incidentally, the best, and cheapest, anvil is this section of steel angle, the insides of which are lines with Hard Maple scrap, and then clamped in the leg vise over a leg ....





    The finish for the wood - Fiddleback Jarrah for the top of the carcase and the drawer fronts, and Jarrah for the base of the carcase and base/legs - was chosen for durability. It needs to be capable of resisting water marks and heat, and still have a natural appearance - not a sit-on-top finish, such as a poly or varnish. Most oil finishes are not durable enough.


    What I went with in the end was Evolution (satin), a hard wax oil by Whittle. This is a floor finish, and in the examples I saw it looked more like a waxed oil finish. The reports and reviews were highly favourable. I must say, after using it, I was completely sold. It is fantastic! The surfaces were sanded to 400 grit (Abranet), and then two coats were rubbed on with a micromesh cloth, 8 hours apart. Any residue was removed immediately. There was no grain raising that I could detect, however I did rub down the first coats with 400 grit grey mesh.


    The drawer case was waxed (only) with Lincoln Furniture Wax. This is a shellac-based wax. The inside of the drawer was finished with Ubeaut Hard Shellac diluted 50% with methylated spirits (alcohol). All of the above are Australian products. The interior of the drawer was lined in leather, which was waxed with Renaissance Wax.





    This is a close up of the Evolution. It is so much nicer in the flesh. Silky ...





    OK, to the coffee table ...


    The front, with the drawer (and the agonised-over-drawer-handle-pull-whatever) ..








    The colour, figure, and those rounded dovetails look fantastic ...





    Other end ...





    The rear has a closed panel. At the start of the project I had planned to make the drawer run all the way through, and open from each side. On reflection, this created more problems than it was worth, and so the one side was closed in with the same panel used as a drawer front ...





    The Jarrah base and splayed, tapered legs ...





    Finally the drawer ...


    The drawer stop used was the same design as used in the Apothecary Chest. This is adjustable, which enable the position of the drawer front to be fine tuned ...





    The 10mm drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I find great for this purpose as it all comes quarter sawn. It is a moderately hard wood (by Oz standards). Plywood was used for the drawer bottom, as it was inset in grooves and covered in leather. Jarrah cove moulding was made to finish.








    Inside there is an inscribed brass plate for remembrance ...





    Thanks for all the contributions and discussion along the way.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Hi Derek

    Beautiful work as always.
    I hope both David and Avia appreciate the skill and dedication that you have put into this build.
    In a ways it's a shame you can't keep it till after this year's wood show


    Just one thing, Sydney is not Perth -- over the past 24 hours the relative humidity in Perth has ranged between 45 and 60% vs up to 60 to 90% in Sydney. Your choice of table connectors could cause some grief.
    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    The top and base were connected with steel angle brackets ...




    Part of the strength in the splayed legs comes from the corner brackets, which act to lock in the mortice-and-tenon joint by preventing movement. These steel angle brackets further lock in the base from any possible twisting.
    May I suggest that you make up a second set of angled brackets with slotted holes that you can install when in Sydney.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  15. #59
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    Feb 2003
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    Derek, your drive byes just keep on impressing
    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen
    the best, and cheapest, anvil is this section of steel angle, the insides of which are lines with Hard Maple scrap, and then clamped in the leg vise over a leg ....

    do you even own a ball pein hammer?


    more seriously, is that a tool steel workshop hammer or a softer steel Gennoh (chisel hammer)?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  16. #60
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    ...

    Just one thing, Sydney is not Perth -- over the past 24 hours the relative humidity in Perth has ranged between 45 and 60% vs up to 60 to 90% in Sydney. Your choice of table connectors could cause some grief.

    May I suggest that you make up a second set of angled brackets with slotted holes that you can install when in Sydney.
    Hi Ian.

    Thanks, and good points.

    I will add slots to the brackets.

    My main concern is the drawer, and how much expansion will take place. It is a close fit here in Perth. Logic says I should remove a little width to allow for some expansion. But how much?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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