Thread: Coffee Table - Tripod legs

Originally Posted by Larkan

Wondering if anyone can assist me please?

I'm after a plan/instructions for some tripod legs for a small circular coffee table. Approx 600 diameter. I've searched the www and asked around but to date nothing.

Kerry

What type of tripod legs?

There's about 6000 to choose from

coffee table tripod legs - Google Search

Thanks Robert, yes you're correct there are plenty of images however I'm after some specific drawings with dimensions.

Ok .
The way I was shown. You decide what you like and then get out a pencil . Work out the dimensions and design it. Plan it then build it. The chances of a three legged tripod design with all the dimensions and instructions showing up that you also like could be a bit slim.

How about this with a round top at 600 diameter and 460 high? And Ill draw it up or show you how to draw it up?

Vintage Tripod Coffee Table Teak | VAVOOM | Buy Online

Rob.

Originally Posted by auscab

How about this with a round top at 600 diameter and 460 high? And Ill draw it up or show you how to draw it up?

Vintage Tripod Coffee Table Teak | VAVOOM | Buy Online

Rob.

Appreciate your help but they aren't what I would describe a tridod legs Rob.

I've decided on a different approach. Still making the legs as per the photo and adjusting the angles to get the top onto flat leg tops, and a flat base to the legs too. A fair bit of fiddling however it is just geometry at the end of the day. My original effort was based on a dinning table however the angles are all wrong due to the high difference.....let's see how we go.

Cheers

looks like a bit of a challenge . I couldn't imagine trying to draw that.

Perhaps marking out a circle on the floor and have another one cut out of plywood set at the height of the underside of the table top. Then play with three legs within that to set the angles and cross over positions.
When I make three legged tables sort of similar but taller to the one I linked to I keep the legs to long and cut the feet and top angles last after assembly .


The design reminds me of Hitlers Atlantic wall .

Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-719-0240-05,_Pas_de_Calais,_Atlantikwall,_Panzersperren a.jpg

Originally Posted by auscab

looks like a bit of a challenge . I couldn't imagine trying to draw that.

...
The design reminds me of Hitlers Atlantic wall .

Bundesarchiv_Bild_101I-719-0240-05,_Pas_de_Calais,_Atlantikwall,_Panzersperren a.jpg

Rob, is this one of those little-know facts about historical figures, like Churchill laid bricks for recreation and Hitler built tripods?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Rob, is this one of those little-know facts about historical figures, like Churchill laid bricks for recreation and Hitler built tripods?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Ive no idea what Hitler did for enjoyment Derek. I wonder ? Some building designs ?
And some big trouble making.
Churchill and his bricklaying was amazing to discover in one of the documentary's I watched on him years ago.

I like any and all Churchill stories.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpqwY7QL7r8

Originally Posted by Larkan

A fair bit of fiddling however it is just geometry at the end of the day.

Good luck with this!

I made just such a set of legs for our burl slab coffee table... and I'd say "a fair bit of fiddling" is an understatement.

I worked out my angles with pen 'n paper, (didn't have CAD at the time) but didn't get things quite right. From memory, where I screwed up was in the transcribing of the angles from my plan to the timbers as there's no common "zero reference."

(FWIW, our table had no gaps in the joints, it just ended up sitting an inch or two lower than planned.)

If I were to have a go at this I would zip out a laser level and mark the top accordingly when cutting the legs on the mitre I would choose the closest lock point. Once cut flip the legs so the new cut are flat to surface and laser the “top” I would assume the cutting would be the reverse degree from the first, or the same. Anyhow that’s my 2 cents,
cheers

Looking at the pic again, I see they've simplified the joinery significantly by keeping the legs at 90° to each other. (I didn't go that way, meaning I had complex mitres which made working out the joint angles... difficult.)

But whether you stick to 90° or go the difficult path, marking out the flats for the feet & top is quite simple.

Dock each leg at the same length, a few inches longer than desired to allow for cutting in the flats for feet & top.

Then, assemble it as a unit and place it on a known flat surface. Use a pencil and spacer to scribe your cut line around all three legs. Turn the legs upside down and repeat for the flats on t'other end.

If you size the spacer appropriately, you only need to do the one set of cuts on each end.

There's nothing to say that you can't use smaller spacers and "creep up" to the final result, except it means more work and with added complexity there's greater chance of error..

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Churchill laid bricks for recreation and Hitler built tripods?

Apparently Hitler played Jacks.

You should've seen the ball...

(Image via FROM the VAULT - Beached WW2 Sea-Mine, 1968/1969 - Museum)

I had read that Hitler tried and failed as an artist and had a yearning to be an architect. He likely could have designed a tripod if world domination had not distracted him.
Regards
John

Here is my 2 bobs worth.

I would make the first one using framing timber (or other cheap timber you have).
Cut these to the same dimensions (except the lengths) of your finished proposal.
Use some MDF or similar on the floor and a similar piece up top. Work out the triangular shape on the floor for the distance between legs.
Attach the legs to the MDF top and bottom with screws or any other method. It only has to be rough. Glue blocks to the MDF will also work.
Where all the legs cross over in the middle, I would hold them together (roughly) with a long length of velcro tape wrapped around.

You can now work on marking and cutting the angles for the middle joint. If you make a mistake just use more cheap framing timber.
As you already have glue blocks or screws in the rough base and top it is easier to start again.
Once you have the middle joint solved, you could then cut the leg (bottoms and top) to the correct angles as per other members comments.

At this point I put the rough model in the place where it will go and leave it for a week or so.
You can then see what it looks like from different angles and places within the room. You may decide to make some changes to your design at this point.

You can now make your real table out of the real wood and use the pine framing model as a template when setting saw angles etc.