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11th May 2018, 12:14 PM #16
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA3XjEXMxj8
This guy makes it look easy.
And this one even easier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZr_tvra--0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV9Cb_-AxosThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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11th May 2018 12:14 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th May 2018, 03:02 PM #17
Hi Barry
You can chop mortices with a chisel, or use a router. When using a router, this is the jig I built. After many over a few decades, this is the best so far ...
It should be self-explanatory.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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11th May 2018, 03:43 PM #18
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11th May 2018, 04:22 PM #19
Hi Barry
If that is the way you want to go ...
I suggest that
1. you replace all unsound wood -- including glue affected or weathered wood that will be part of a joint -- with fresh wood using dutchmen, well fitting plugs, new pieces scarfed onto the existing members, etc.
Glue these pieces with thickened epoxy adhesive. My experience is with SystemThree's products thickened with wood flour, but I understand that West Systems 200 series is similar. Be careful with your hardener as the wrong one will flash set if it's too hot or not cure at all if it's too cold. i.e. read the labels and manufacturers literature and understand the temperature ranges of the materials.
This will be a fair amount of work, as from the photos every member will need to be "repaired" so that the joints are cut in sound wood. BUT if you are not working with sound timber for the next step you are just spending time and money and not really achieving anything.
2. Re-cut all the joints to achieve a good fit. Loose tenons are an option if you so desire and a Domino will be the easiest way to cut them.
All up I think the "repair" will be more work than a new build.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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11th May 2018, 05:52 PM #20Woodworking mechanic
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12th May 2018, 11:06 AM #21
...
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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12th May 2018, 02:40 PM #22Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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12th May 2018, 02:47 PM #23
I've got oregon timber posts.
Should I consider using oregon to replace the bits n pieces on the bench?
I can't recall if the bench is made of meribu or jarra.
Might make a decent contrast.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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12th May 2018, 03:17 PM #24regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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14th May 2018, 12:19 PM #25
Got lucky! Pretty much never happens.
Found a 4.5mm Polycarb 1220 x 590mm for $30
Others wanted $35 + GST for 400m x 400mm.
So gonna give this a fair go.
How to make a perfect mortising jig
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA3XjEXMxj8
Been so long since I made something my hands are shaking.
So freakin cold out.
How do I heat my garage?
Its brick.
Its got two roller doors.
With heaps of space for heat to escape around the rolls.
No ceiling.
And just ceramic tiles on the roof.
Where I can see light streaming thru.
BrrrrrrThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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14th May 2018, 01:10 PM #26
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14th May 2018, 02:33 PM #27
the 10 x 24 x 50 ones should be. I think Barry's problem will be that he doesn't have enough sound wood
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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14th May 2018, 04:13 PM #28
Any thoughts on this:
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...non-dimensions
Following found on: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-mortise-depth
Question: i have a 3/4" thick by 4" wide leg that is going to get a mortise so it should have a mortise of 1/4" thick by 2" wide and 2" deep the stretcher is also a
3/4" x 4"??
Reply: you can get a 3" wide mortise w/ tenon out of that 4" wide stretcher....leaving 1/2" shoulder top and bottom; and 1/4" shoulder on the sides....
Sounds like you're using loose tenons....??
Another reply: On most of my standard rails, aprons, etc. they are all 3/8" because the mortiser is set up with this standard bit.
There are plenty of ways to get more exact in the dimensions, etc. but practicality and speed win out and 3/8" works well for most applications.
Another reply:
Here are some standard rules-of-thumb which are good guidelines but actual dimensions can vary a bit, ie, I use a 3/8" mortise and tenon in 3/4" stock.
1) Tenon thickness should be 1/3 the thickness of the stock being mortised to ensure the stock being mortised doesn't weaken.
2) Tenon width shoud be no more than 5 times its thickness, 4" being the max before more than one tenon should be used.
3) For a blind mortise, the mortise depth should be 2/3 the width of the board being mortised.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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20th May 2018, 10:58 AM #29
Dismantled and investigating
IMG_9214.jpg
IMG_9249.jpg
IMG_9250.jpg
IMG_9265.jpgThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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20th May 2018, 11:11 AM #30
IMG_9277.jpgThey all look quite reasonable
IMG_9251.jpg
IMG_9255.jpg
IMG_9257.jpg
IMG_9270.jpg
I could swear thats Jarrah.
Might be Merbau.
All except a couple were degraded glue.
And still tight Mortise and Tenon fittings.
Only one fell out.
Estimating about 150 Tenons to clean up and the same for Mortise.
All further suggestions welcome!Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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