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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    forgot to mention.
    I built this mortise jig incase I needed to make more.

    How to make a perfect mortising jig
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JA3XjEXMxj8&t=645s

    Designed around my Triton TRA001 Dual Mode Plunge Router

    Most from left over parts.

    Two days from start to finish.
    About 3 hours of searching for the right screws in my collection.
    I refused to go to bunnings unless I couldn't find something.
    Or maybe I was stuck at home without a car and couldn't wait any longer to get started.

    $30 for a really large off cut of polycarbonate.
    45min round trip to supplier.

    ~$2.50 for two 5/16" x 20mm counter sunk screws.
    1 hour round trip to specialist screw and bolt shop.
    Bunnings didn't sell them.

    I'm sure Masters would have had them.
    Still sad about that.


    2F56DB92-325F-40CF-A0DA-2196C67FDB4B.jpg

    IMG_9189.jpg

    IMG_9197.jpg

    IMG_9199.jpg

    IMG_9206.jpg

    No where near perfect.
    Perfection being completely overrated.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    What thickness is the polycarbonate? I have a full sheet of 8mm waiting to be made into a jig.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    The vid specs were 4.8mm thick.
    The only off cut available was 4.5 x 590 x 1200mm for $30.
    Otherwise a 500 x 500mm from a full sheet was $105 for 6mm I think.
    Other places were ~$40 inc GST for 4.5 x 400 x 400mm
    hth
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    At 9.10 in the video, he adds another block to the travel adjuster marked R. I presume when that travel adjuster and block is fully up against the rest, the router is dead central?

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Yes.

    For me R=Rear and F=Front

    For me I see no reasoning behind a max stop on the stop.
    Unless you are plunging for a single dowel hole.
    Even then you don't need it as you will be lining it up with the centre marks.

    Anyone else?
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    What thickness is the polycarbonate? I have a full sheet of 8mm waiting to be made into a jig.
    If I already had the 8mm I'd use it.
    As the 4.5mm is a bit to thin for counter sunk screw holes.
    Especially the 5/16" counter sunk screws.
    hth
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    That is quite a clever jig.

    I'll watch the rest of the video, perhaps it discusses making the insertable tenons?

    The end stops are clever and this would be an interesting way of making monster tenons that everyone loves.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    He does address making the tenons in the comments with a shortcut to another of his videos.

    Floating tenons made with a router here:
    https://youtu.be/muxCmuqZUtU?t=163

    I'm pretty sure he uses hardwood tenons.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

    Default

    I built a similar unit a couple of years ago. It was designed by Dan Phalan
    Dan Phalen mortising jig

    Although it works brilliantly, the two ways I can see it can be improved is seen in the polycarbonate jig.
    1) being able to see through the top so you can line up the lines on the timber with the lines scribed in the poly. Mine is a bit fiddley.
    2) having a thinner top so the mortise can be made deeper. The top of my unit is 18mm ply.

    i”ll make some mods. using the 8mm poly, that I now have, and see how it goes.
    Thanks for the post.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    perhaps it discusses making the insertable tenons?
    The tenon's are easy to make. Offcuts of new hardwood flooring or old floorboards are perfect for this. Just rip to size, feed each side past a half round bit on the router table and cut to the lengths you require. You can make a lot of stock in not much time.

    Nice jig Barry, you'll never regret making it. Mine has the same problem as Lappas, difficult to accurately line up on centre.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Used 80grid on my Random Orbit Disc Sander

    Any suggestions?

    IMG_9308.jpg

    IMG_9309.jpg



    Sholders are not level and tenon are not straight.

    IMG_9304.jpg

    IMG_9305.jpg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  13. #42
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
    Posts
    3,019

    Default

    I think you'd find it easier to cut the tenon off, cut a mortise in both parts to be joined and use floating (loose) tenon's. If you still want to refurbish the existing tenon setting up a tenoning jig for the table saw or bandsaw would at least establish a regularly shaped tenon with accurate shoulders that you could then round the edges on.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    For gluing sequence steps

    Find Woodworking - The Lutyens Garden Bench
    http://www.finewoodworking.com/proje.../011143078.pdf

    Full Sized plans:
    https://www.tauntonstore.com/lutyens...an-011203.html

    New Yankee Workshop
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnisMwsNB38

    New Yankee Plans
    https://www.newyankee.com/product/lutyens-bench/

    There are also Sketchup plans in 3D Warehouse.
    Although they don't come with mortise and tenon joins.
    Nor step by step instructions.

    Woodcraft
    https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...n-bench-afd279

    Amazon
    https://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Ow.../dp/B00024WAMA
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Thanks for those plans.... Im thinking a few benches this winter sounds like a half-decent project....

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Barry, if you find the jig you are using to be less than your hoped it would be, then try the one I posted earlier ...





    I have made a number of jigs over about 30 years of morticing with a router, including one similar to yours, and this trumps all. I have been using a version of it for several years. It is almost point-and-shoot.

    Here is a link to a video on FWW magazine (mine is a variation of this) ...

    How to Cut Mortises with a Plunge Router - FineWoodworking

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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