Thread: Country Hutch W.I.P.

I planed the edges of boards so I could get good jointing between both edges.
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I then used the Biscuit joiner to cut slots for biscuits.
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I prepared my clamps for gluing the ends then glued and clamped with many clamps.
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I removed all the clamps and done some cleaning up. This is one of the ends.

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Unfortunately some damage occurred when putting ends through Sander. I did not realise the sander roll was clogged in one area and it teared out some wood.
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I mixed up some different colour wax put it in spoon and heated with propane torch then filled up damaged hole.
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Looking on with interest - that's a lot of components! What kind of mahogany are the slabs?

Hi, They are African Mahogany.

I decided to do the profile on the ends next.
There is a scaled down pic of profile in magazine so I scaled it up onto graph paper.
Then i used carbon paper to trace onto plywood, then I band sawed it out.
I then cleaned it up to get nice smooth even surface for router bearing to run on.
After transferring shape onto the ends I rough cut ends on bandsaw.
I then placed template on end and set up router and proceeded to cut the shape.
Sorry I am missing a few photos.
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I installed my Dado blades to the width of the shelves and rails (all the same 3/4 inch).
While I was at it I also put a rebate on the back for the back boards later.
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The above pic is using the Dado blade to cut the rebate for the Back Panels later.
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The pics are cleaning up the Dado cuts
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The finished ends with Profiles.
Oops made a bob boo with top pic of Dado but seems to work if you click on attachment.

One of the fixed shelves being cleaned up after glue up
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Putting through Drum Sander
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Carcase Base clamped up and glue drying with Rails as well.
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Hi Everyone.
Not sure what to do with these cracks on the Underside of the Country Hutch Base Top. The Top is 7/8th inch thick and 57 inches long by 16 inches wide and made of Mahogany.
A couple of the cracks using a feeler gauge go in about 3/8 inch.
Any Ideas?
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Also I have started drilling holes and slots for attaching the same Top to the Base. The Top will be Anchored at the front with 3 Screws from underneath and then allowed to expand towards the Back with seasonal movement.
I have cut two slots in each end but not sure about the Length of the slots for seasonal Expansion in the Back Rail. I have done two of three as shown in pic to what I thought might be OK and I didn't want to go any longer in case I weekend the Rail too much.
Any thoughts please?
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Thanks in Advance
Woody

Oops Please disregard the last pic of Bandsaw cutting template.

I used dominoes on this glue up. After doing a dry assemble I realised that I would never have enough time before my glue would go off (approx 10 minutes). I decided to use Araldite as has 1 hour open time and that is how long it took me to get it clamped up.
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Cleaning up
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Face Frame completed including Profile
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I then attached with glue to the Base.
All Clamped up glue drying.
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Face-frame completed
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Cheers Woody

Graeme,

No doubt you've thought about filling those cracks with epoxy. There are other solutions, but I like the strength epoxy provides. It's on the underside, so looks are not an issue.

Hi John Thanks for your input.
Yes I was thinking of Araldite as I like its strength and long open time as well. I was also thinking about its consistency as it is thickish and might be difficult to get into cracks, however I am going to give it a try and use a small flat blade to force it into the cracks.
The other option I was thinking about is Super Glue but not sure.

Cheers
Graeme

Graeme,

I sometimes use super glue to fill small voids. First I sift some sawdust to get the fine stuff. This fine sawdust is pressed into the crack/void. Then regular, runny superglue (not the thick stuff) is dripped onto the sawdust. Pete (PJT) taught me that approach. It's really good when you want a fast repair, because the super glue goes off so fast. You can do a repair and a couple of minutes later give it a rub with a wet rag and then hit it with the orbital sander. Job finished.

However, for these deep cracks I'd use epoxy. If you heated up the wood first with a hairdryer or a heat gun, the epoxy will become warmer and runnier and sink into the cracks. Then apply some more epoxy and hit it with the heat gun again. The heat will significantly speed up the cure time, but for a few minutes the epoxy will be warm and runny, and will get further into those cracks. You will likely get bubbles, too. However, because you are repairing the back of the board that's not an issue.

Please let us know how you get on.

John

Thanks for those two great tips. I did not think of using a heat gun so I will be trying that for sure. I will let you know how I go.

Originally Posted by Woody1

... Yes I was thinking of Araldite as I like its strength and long open time as well. I was also thinking about its consistency as it is thickish and might be difficult to get into cracks, ...

Hi Graeme

I have done quite a bit of epoxy work over the years and I would do things a little differently.

First, Araldite is a super discount brand and there are much better products available. My preference is WEST System, but there is little difference between most of the major brands. The timber should be between 10° and 35°, any cooler and the epoxy may stay tacky, and warmer and it can bubble. The hardener must be measured with with an accuracy of 3%, and I much prefer slow hardener (WEST #206). I usually use MEK as solvent, but acetone is also fine.
For small crack I would do the following:

• Mix a small quantity of epoxy, stir slowly until "stripes" disappear, dilute with 50% solvent and stir again. (Fast stirring causes bubbles)
• Paint straight solvent into cracks,
• Paint diluted epoxy into wet crack - pre-wetting facilitates penetration.
• Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat epoxy coat,
• Keep repeating until crack stops accepting, or epoxy starts to go off.

After 12 but less than 24 hours scrape surface epoxy with tungsten scraper back to bare wood. Cracks should have filled with epoxy and glued timber together, but the actual crack should be almost invisible.


Cheers

Graeme