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Thread: Curses!!!

  1. #1
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    Default Curses!!!

    I have been labouring mightily to make a queen size bed for som friends in need of such an item.

    Whole unit is made from recycled pallets and Oregon. This has consumed many hours, what with
    collecting pallets, dismantling and de-nailing before much time on the thicknesser, bandsaw and
    tablesaw. The posts are laminated. as is the headboard.

    Today i began to fit the slats for the mattress. I had cut these a couple of days ago and today ran
    them through the router to round over the top edges. Took a bundle to the assembled frame and
    lo and behold I have cut them 100mm short!!!

    I have decide to patch them rather than make a whole set of new ones. The overlap on the short
    piece will be 75mm and 125mm on the long piece. I figure glue and screws will do the job or am I being optimistic??

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  3. #2
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    If you can obtain more slats, add a centre rail, and then stagger them to this rail. That way you get the support while using shorter slats.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #3
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    Derek's idea, I can't see extended boards lasting in that application. Add an inner rail each side to make up the 100mm, once the mattress is on who's going to see it?
    CHRIS

  5. #4
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    Sorry to hear the troubles ... I guess we all can think of similar situations

    This could be an answer .... but don't get your hopes up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md2W...04D3870E0917FD

    The center rail sounds like a fix. Otherwise perhaps run a secondary ledge board along the long rails ... use spacers of say 40mm and a 30mm ledge rail.

    Hope it goes well

    Rob

  6. #5
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    Thanks for the suggestions fellas! Much appreciated!

    I already have a centre rail and the idea of staggering shorter slats has been considered.

    If I go with shorter slats I will have to put lugs under then and probably have to pin,say, every third one on the side and in the middle.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tahlee View Post
    Sorry to hear the troubles ... I guess we all can think of similar situations

    This could be an answer .... but don't get your hopes up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md2WF210AmY&index=95&list=PL6204D3870E0917FD

    The center rail sounds like a fix. Otherwise perhaps run a secondary ledge board along the long rails ... use spacers of say 40mm and a 30mm ledge rail.

    Hope it goes well

    Rob
    Forgot to check if this was posted on April 1st !!!!!

  8. #7
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    Measure twice, cut once, curse, buy more, cut again

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    I think I'd be saying a few choice words rather than just doh. In fact we've all been there done that and know we'd mention a few colourful words.
    If the magic April fools goo doesn't work like in the video then I guess it's back to the pallet pile all over again. You sure you can't add more rails?

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  10. #9
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    What is it about that missing 100mm? Been there & done that more than once.

    Actually, I know one way it happens to me - tape measures! When trying to be deadly accurate, I start with the tape on 100, to avoid the little inaccuracy the sliding tip tends to add, especially when it's a bit worn (has anyone ever had a tape with the sliding tip that actually measures inside & outside accurately? ). Of course, I sometimes forget to add that 100mm back on when marking the other end.......

    Cheers,
    IW

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    What is it about that missing 100mm? Been there & done that more than once.

    Actually, I know one way it happens to me - tape measures! When trying to be deadly accurate, I start with the tape on 100, to avoid the little inaccuracy the sliding tip tends to add, especially when it's a bit worn (has anyone ever had a tape with the sliding tip that actually measures inside & outside accurately? ). Of course, I sometimes forget to add that 100mm back on when marking the other end.......

    Cheers,
    Yep. Been there, done that (and I've actually witnessed Ian doing it ).

    I totally agree with the sentiment that you shouldn't use extended boards. Yes, the weight is distributed over a number of them, but still... Don't go there.

    I must admit, I used 3/4" ply instead of slats on my king build recently, and I'll never go back. It does a lot for stability and creak reduction in my experience. Granted, it requires removing screws and toting around sheet goods if you move, but removing screws is just not that big of a deal.

    Otherwise, the staggered slats idea gets my vote.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    I used 3/4" ply instead of slats on my king build recently, and I'll never go back. It does a lot for stability and creak reduction in my experience. Granted, it requires removing screws and toting around sheet goods if you move, but removing screws is just not that big of a deal.

    Otherwise, the staggered slats idea gets my vote.
    The trouble with a solid ply sheet is that you have a warm body in the bed that sweats and this causes water vapour in the mattress. This condenses on the cooler ply sheet and results in mould in the bottom of the mattress. Slats enable the vapour to escape and the mattress to dry out.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    The trouble with a solid ply sheet is that you have a warm body in the bed that sweats and this causes water vapour in the mattress. This condenses on the cooler ply sheet and results in mould in the bottom of the mattress. Slats enable the vapour to escape and the mattress to dry out.
    Bohdan, that's received wisdom, but our (latex) mattress came with strict instructions that the base had to be continuous, so if the bed had slats, it advised placing a sheet of ply over them. No reason was given why this was so, & that would have to be the only time I actually read any instructions that came with a mattress, but I thought I should follow them, at least while it was under warranty.

    Since I couldn't easily get a single sheet of the right size, what I did instead was to fill in the gaps with strips of wood. That was fine for a while, but as Luke prophesied above, after about a year, the pine shrank/expanded a little & several now rub causing a couple of creaky spots in the bed. Been meaning to figure out which boards are causing it (there are at least two spots), pull 'em out, & plane a smidgin off to prevent the contact. But the problem is intermittent, & the only time I think about it is when I flop into bed at the end of the day, & it creaks. I'm not going to start dismantling the darn thing at that end of the day, so it's still on the 'to do' list.... :s

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #13
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    My comments were for an innerspring mattress and possibly don't apply to to the current rubber foam mattresses.

    When I was young I slept in a bed made by my father on a rubber mattress. It had a solid ply base and, after some time, the ply started to show mould. My father drilled a large number of about 1" holes in the ply and the problem went away.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    My comments were for an innerspring mattress and possibly don't apply to to the current rubber foam mattresses.

    When I was young I slept in a bed made by my father on a rubber mattress. It had a solid ply base and, after some time, the ply started to show mould. My father drilled a large number of about 1" holes in the ply and the problem went away.
    Yep, having some under- ventilation makes perfect sense for a mattress that is porous top-to-bottom. I can only presume the mattress we have isn't porous, so moisture doesn't get into or through the foam, there is certainly no mould on the wood underneath, thank goodness, or my other half would go hog-wild - she sees the smallest patch on the wall & it gets gooshed with bleach quick-smart!

    But that doesn't fully explain why the maker of our mattress insists on it being on a solid base. The only reason I can think of is that it may be because one of its proclaimed 'features' is that the foam has 'memory' and takes on a little of the contours of the bodies that nightly snuggle into it. It would probably develop some funny bulges along the bottom, if there were gaps between slats, although one would think that problem would be easy enough to forestall by a bit of intelligent construction - as it is, it's one-sided (something else I've not struck in a mattress before, either!), so that shouldn't be all that difficult to arrange.

    Anyway, I don't like the damn thing, and would much rather we go back to a plain old (& cheaper!) innerspring next time, but the Minister for Things Domestic is keen on latex, for reasons I don't fully understand, so I guess I'll get a choice - either latex or twin singles......

    Cheers,
    IW

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Anyway, I don't like the damn thing, and would much rather we go back to a plain old (& cheaper!) innerspring next time, but the Minister for Things Domestic is keen on latex, for reasons I don't fully understand, so I guess I'll get a choice - either latex or twin singles......
    After a several years on latex I went for a pillow-top pocket spring mattress and I'm much happier with it. The guy at Bedshed reckons that latex is pretty much a waste of money unless you have one of those fancy motorised beds, then you have to have a solid slab of foam.

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