Thread: Drawers with slide in bottoms - advice please

I'd just glue in a fill if you're concerned about aesthetics. It's not something that will be seen in normal use unless you fit under mount full extension drawer slides. Side mount ball bearing slides could be positioned to hide it, any other way of fitting the drawer to the carcase probably won't be full extension and it won't be seen. Normally I rout the slot for the drawer bottom, like a stopped dado which avoids the problem of a through cut.

Certainly a lot prettier than what I'd build for my mitre saw. I like box joints, they're attractive and strong.

Originally Posted by richmond68

. Normally I rout the slot for the drawer bottom, like a stopped dado which avoids the problem of a through cut.

Thanks for the reply.
I'm not sure I understand this in the context of they way I have built them.
The drawer has to slide in from the back. I didn't want to assemble with the drawer bottom in place before the glue up.
The front panel and the front of the side panels are stopped dados.
IMG_0801.jpg

The back panel is cut level with the top of the dado on the side panels so the drawer bottom is level with it.

IMG_0802.jpg

The drawer is assembled and glued.

The drawer bottom then slides in and then attached with one screw.

IMG_0805.jpg

I like finger joints too. The Jig I built makes them a snap to cut so it's easy.

Cheers

To do this I normally cut the rear down to its final size before assembly. That is, I cut it down to align with the top of the rebate on the sides and front before assembly.

It seems a bit unusual to cut the rear down after assembly.

Originally Posted by Arron

To do this I normally cut the rear down to its final size before assembly. That is, I cut it down to align with the top of the rebate on the sides and front before assembly.

It seems a bit unusual to cut the rear down after assembly.

The rear panel is cut down to its final size before assembly. I've edited my previous post to state this.

Sorry, I could have explained myself better. I rout the stopped dado on all 4 drawer panels. I assemble the four sides, then take it back to the router table and rout the slot in the back again from the outside face. Like creating a long thin through mortise I suppose. A couple of quick cuts with a tenon saw to remove the waste then fit the drawer bottom as you have.

I use the same method for the drawers I make using a lock mitre bit for the corners.

Ok, so then how does the little missing bit come about then?

I see that you do a dado on the side panels which is stopped at the front, but why does it have the little through section at the rear?

All the panels are finger routed in step one. Then the dados are routed. Then the bottom of the back panel is cut off level with the top of the side dados. This leaves 1/2 a finger in a slot designed to take a full finger. Hence the gap.

IMG_0806.jpg

Thanks Richmond68 - I've locked that away for the next drawer. I'm really struggling for space so any empty space in a cupboard or under a table is getting a drawer

Ok, thanks for the explanation and diagram
Cheers
Arron