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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Default Fine and straight kerf

    Hi all. I've been using this forum for a while now but this is my first post. It's the first time I couldn't find the solution I was after just by reading others' posts.

    I'm in the process of designing a table for behind my couch, I'm going to run power to the table and have discrete cable management built into the table top. This will be for powering a small lamp and to run chargers ect.

    I'm going to cut a hole in the top and use the removed piece to fashion a cover for the hole and the lower support for the cover to sit on (sorry, I'm not very experienced and don't really know the lingo).

    My main goal is to have a very finely cut section that sits loose, but close fitting in the space which continues the grain pattern of the wood. (I've attached the sketches I'm working on). It the attachment I'm pretty certain that the example I've inserted is a veneer but I'd like a similar effect with a board.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on how I would get a super fine cut with hand tools so when I seat the top cover it looks nice 'n' pretty?


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
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    Default

    Extend the leg detail design to the cable cover. That way you can route the hole out and the detail will take up the kerf width.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    If the hole can be the same width as the width of the boards used for the table top you can cut the boards before they are joined to leave a hole - that way you can move the boards which create the side of the hole a bit closer together to make up for the kerf loss.
    Not sure about the rounded hole corners though.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    If the hole can be the same width as the width of the boards used for the table top you can cut the boards before they are joined to leave a hole - that way you can move the boards which create the side of the hole a bit closer together to make up for the kerf loss.
    Not sure about the rounded hole corners though.
    The way I'm doing it will result in a shorter cover compared to the hole (lengthwise) so the rounded edges don't need to match up, it's more the straight edges I'm worried about.... this is a really good suggestion.

  6. #5
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Hmmm . . . . .
    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    . . . .That way you can route the hole out.
    . . . how I would get a super fine cut with hand tools

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bohdan View Post
    Extend the leg detail design to the cable cover. That way you can route the hole out and the detail will take up the kerf width.
    That's a GREAT idea! I'll have a go at drawing it up.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Depending on how thick the boards are, with practice a Japanese (Dozuki with a rounded nose) saw can also be used to start a cut in the middle of a board - no rounded corners though.

    Once your are through the wood the cut can be finished with a narrow Kataba or even a small flush cut.
    A wooden frame the size of and clamped above the hole will help guide the saws.

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