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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    518

    Default I finished those recycled oregon tables

    Well, it's finished all except the final polish.
    Thought I'd better post pics.
    Thanks everyone for the advice along the way.

    They're each 2.1 x 850.
    The timber came from the ceiling structure in the room the table is in. So it's over 100 years old. I had it dressed at a local timber yard.
    Legs are steel because I like the look of timber and steel and I find steel easier.
    I put one end of each table on wheels as they will move around that space and be reconfigured as a long table or a square one.

    The things I learnt:
    1. It's probably best to do glue-ups in sections rather than all at once.
    2. If you suspect a top might have a slight twist in it, fix it before the glue dries because you'll never do it afterwards.
    3. When you're going to go to so much effort, splurge on good timber. I like the fact that the oregon came from that space, but if I ever do another table (and I can't see it happening) I would use something really interesting.
    4. Be true to the timber colour and don't try to stain it unless it's boring pine.
    5. Don't put any coats on before filling holes with resin because you'll end up having to resand the whole thing anyway.
    6. Don't over fill holes with resin expecting the resin to be pretty easy to sand down.
    NB the latter three lessons were the cause of me having to take the glued-up tops downstairs and out the back three times to resand completely.

    Scott

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
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    1,327

    Default

    That is a great result and worth all the effort .Nice looking oregon and much beeter than you would get new.
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    112

    Default table

    Looks great New oregon would never look that good,keep telling your self that its true & makes all the hole filling etc worthwhile. They need a wax Home tonight after 5ish.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
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    518

    Default

    I'll give you a call and drop over tonight for some of the caviar of furniture waxes.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    Nice job looks great

    I personally don't mind old oregon (just picked up some to play with myself - outdoor table and stools for the deck, me thinks)
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Parkside - South Australia
    Age
    45
    Posts
    3,318

    Default

    They are some good looking tables. I love the steel and timber combination and it is good to see the light weight look of the flat bar. The wheels are also a very clever idea.

    Nothing better than using timber with a little history ...... especially when it is from the same room. You should put a note about the timbers history under the top for the future.
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    518

    Default

    Good idea about something on history under the tables - they'll be there long after I've gone because I'm not taking them down those stairs again.

    I mentioned in the first post that I hadn't done the final polish yet.

    I loved the feel of the tables after the rub down with turps/linseed and steel wool. I recall Claw's regime was to then just polish with O'Cedar or F&W furniture oil.

    The tops now have 2 coats of Scandinavian Oil on them and Moikel kindly lent me his tin of Luberon Black Bison Wax which I have put under lock and key. I've done a test with it and I'm in two minds.

    I'm hankering for that feel I had before the Scandinavian Oil went on i.e. before it went all shiny again.

    So my question is, can I rub the tops again using the turps/linseed mix and W&D and then steel wool to get the finish back to where it was and then use O'Cedar or F&W Furniture Oil or the wax or something?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    530

    Default

    [QUOTE=scottbr;1329478]Well, it's finished all except the final polish.
    Thought I'd better post pics.
    Thanks everyone for the advice along the way.

    They're each 2.1 x 850.
    The timber came from the ceiling structure in the room the table is in. So it's over 100 years old. I had it dressed at a local timber yard.
    Legs are steel because I like the look of timber and steel and I find steel easier.
    I put one end of each table on wheels as they will move around that space and be reconfigured as a long table or a square one.

    Such beautiful wood and well made

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
    Posts
    1,327

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scottbr View Post
    The tops now have 2 coats of Scandinavian Oil on them and Moikel kindly lent me his tin of Luberon Black Bison Wax which I have put under lock and key. I've done a test with it and I'm in two minds.

    [/B]
    What were your thoughts about the Bison Wax that put you in 2 minds about it
    Scott. I was thinking about getting some but as you say it's a bit exy so I would be keen to see what you think.
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
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    Default

    Peter, I should pre-empt this by reiterating that this is the first time I've ever made a table or anything like that, so I'm a complete novice at finishing..

    My reservations had nothing to do with the quality of the wax. Bison I imagine is really good and looks great on Moikel's stuff. I guess all timbers are different.

    There is a possibility I stuffed up the apllication of the Scandinavian Oil. I didn't know what to expect, but I ended up with a hard shiny coating on the timber (one with lots of very fine hairs in it because I didn't use a lint free cloth). Using the Bison over this on my test piece didn't give me the finish I wanted.

    I liked the look and feel of the timber when I had finished rubbing it with steel wool and the turps/linseed mix. If I could have this look with a bit of a sheen to it, I'd be happy.

    So this weekend I'm going to bite the bullet and rub it down again with 1200 W&D and then steel wool using the turps/linseed mix both times.

    I was going to then just try O'Cedar, but sadly I've been poking around here and found people talking about Tripoli Powder. I'm wondering whether I should get some of that, too, and use it before the O'Cedar. I think I need Claw to slap me around and tell me to stop fussing.

    My wife thinks I've gone over the edge and wonders whether there may be some sort of self help group I could perhaps join. I said, 'Yeah. There is. It's called Woodworkforum.com'

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
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    Default

    Thanks Scott. Perseverance pays off in the end.From what I know of Tripoli powder. it will give you a high gloss rather than a low sheen .
    Cheers
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    518

    Default

    Hmmm.

    But at least it wouldn't be a gloss coating like the Scandinavian Oil. So it would feel different. Maybe.

    I can feel,a test coming on.

    I'm betting that Bunnings don't have Tripoli Powder.

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