Thread: Fireplace surround

Once the design was finalised, the first task was to dimension all the timber. Makore is a very had timber and burns easily. The combination jointer/thicknesser I was using (work) soon lost its edge and really started to bounce around and every time the timber stopped there was another burn mark! I found that rubbing the knives with a diamond file/slip helped me get the job done.

The same burning problem occurred with routing the edges. As all the bits I used were relatively new, the only solution was slowing down the router and watching the feed rate. Another problem occurred with the fluting of the front panels for the side columns. The cut was rough, burn marks and obviously the board was catching and jumping. I discovered that a quick wax and polish of the router table made a huge difference. All profiles were run before cutting to length and the grain matched around mitres. Matching pieces on each column were cut from the same plank.

In my design, accuracy is a real concern as it all has to just slip together once all the parts are made AND fitted to a fireplace that is not perfectly straight or square. This required trimming the parts that come in contact with the fireplace itself to its contour and allow for the differences in depth to the plaster wall (did not want to use mouldings to cover gaps) Also the wall at the back of the mantel was curved. This involved a lot of trial and error fitting before any assembly.

All long parts were dowelled and glued and screwed together. Dowels help to keep everything aligned. Long mitres were biscuited while short ones were dowelled. The cutouts and sockets for the joins had to be made in the individual parts before assembly.



Note that a protruding tongue or key has been cut on the end of the horizontal piece that goes against the face tiles under the mantel. This keeps the mantel in position and locked back against the wall. It also stops it from tipping forward.



Note that the inside of the side socket is formed by a piece of aluminium 4mm flat (fits between wood and the bricks)

The columns consist of uneven sides 55mm in front of the tiles and 180 mm back to the wall. It has a decorative flute front and a filler at the back to form a strong box section.


There are spacers between the two and screwed and glued together. The fluted front is rebated to fit under the mantel and behind the bottom decorative moulding. The front is rebated to fit over the side pieces to leave a 5mm gap up each side. Note that the top of the assembly fits inside the mantel and is screwed to the top of the fireplace before the mantel is fitted.

First the fireplace is packed to the correct dimensions with timber. The top plank is also screwed to the wall. Packing blocks are also glued and screwed to the sides of the bricks.


Next was to attach locking keys to the base of the fireplace. These are made from the same piece that locks the back of the column sides together. These are cut with matching mitre so that the bottom of the column will sip into and around it and hold it in position.


Once this is locked in, the top of the column was screwed to the fireplace. It is critical that measurements are checked so that the slots and tongues on the mantel will match.During trial fitting, it was found that the mantel was a tight neat fit and locked the mantel in well. For the final assembly, construction adhesive was used on the mounting blocks and under the mantel to make sure it would never move.

Here are some pics of the final finish and pattern details.

Cheers,

Chipman

PS took much longer to build than I thought. (Too busy at work and then my back gave out!. But its done and SWMBO has given it the tick of approval. Now I have a side cupboard and an entertainment unit to build!)

Well done Chipman,
A nice mantle shelf gives a room a focal point. It is always the first thing visitors notice.
Regards
John

Very nice work. Looks great.

Cheers

Superb, is the right word!

I really like the way you put it together - I'm a great fan of hidden joinery, & fireplace surrounds are a bit of a challenge for me in that department.

I hope you have brought the floor tiles out far enough - have lived with a few wood stoves & those damn sparks seem to find the carpet too easily!

Cheers,

Thanks for the comments. It is a fake gas fire, otherwise the hearth would have to be much bigger AND a suitable screen.

Cheers,

Chipman

Originally Posted by Chipman

Thanks for the comments. It is a fake gas fire, otherwise the hearth would have to be much bigger AND a suitable screen.

Cheers,

Chipman

Oh! Well it's a good fake - I didn't look closely & just assumed it was a wood-burning insert...

Too busy looking at the nice joinery.

So the floor tiles should keep sparks of the carpet....

Cheers,

Superb work Chipman.

Where did you source the Makore timber?

Mick

I bought the Makore from Mathews Timber in Nunawading (Vic)

They are in NSW too. This is their contact.

16 Christie St
St Marys NSW 2760
1800 251 289

Cheers,

Chipman

I just acessed this from a different computer and realised most of the pictures are missing. So I will up load them again.

These are from the third post "Assembling the mantel"

Sorry!