Thread: Floating shelves.

Lappa - by white pad, I'm assuming the OP means these things:

Scotch-Briteâ„¢ Light Cleansing Hand Pad 7445, 6 in x 9 in, 20 pads per box 3 boxes per case: Industrial Abrasives: 3M United States

They are roughly equivalent to 0000 steel wool, but I use these pads to avoid all the fine metal particles which the steel wool leaves behind. I've found them in Home Hardware, but I'm sure Bunnies keep them too. Various colours have different "grits" - I think white is called "fine", but I've also seen a light grey one classed "ultra fine". The coarser ones are maroon or dark green colour.

Thanks MrBrush.
I've been reluctant to use steel wool on some timbers as I've heard it can react and stain the timber black.
These pads seem like the answer.

Gotta say that is splendid work. I'm a fan of OSMO as well. My method of finishing is slightly different. Edges first with a good quality synthetic brush, putting just a tiny bit of finish on the brush then wipe off with a cotton rag. Then the flat surface again just the smallest amount on the brush and use the brush like a mop, pushing the brush down to spread the bristles, then round and round pushing the finish into the timber. Finish with a few strokes with the grain then leave it alone.

This stuff goes a LONG way. Thinner application is imperative for a great result. Raking light aids seeing where it is or isn't.

Cheers

That's the stuff Mr Brush. Steel wool is so 1960's. I also use the gold colour which is a bit more abrasive between coats. That or 800 granat paper.

Enfield guy is on the money with application. You need to put it on very thinly and it's a nightmare if you let it go tacky and need to get it off. A little goes a very long way. I can get about 4 dining tables out of a 700ml tin. I've been through 6 liters of it this year which has been epic to say the least.

I think the maple and the raw would look tops. You'd probably need 2 coats if the raw finished with a coat of the semi matte. The harder the timber, the more difficult it is to work in. I've also found the finer you sand it, the more coats you need to use to get build.

The set out was done with a laser Justin. Tolerances were +\- 0.5mm which would have been tricky with a spirit level. I double sided taped all the angle to the walls then drilled through the holes from there. The corner was a long way from 90 deg so I made a template for all the miters. I had great customers. Very demanding but very understanding about the complexities of the job. It took me a lot longer to deliver than I would have liked [emoji51]

No doubt you will b e rewarded with recommended work as well

I was wondering about the "squarosity" (as George Bush would say....) of the walls - you managed to make a perfect fit for the shelves despite the best efforts of the plasterers who built that wall ! I remember doing some fit out work in a VERY old local building - one of the guys turned up with a spirit level, but everyone just laughed at him. We had a choice of using "level relative to the earth" or "local level", and needless to say the latter looked a lot better

Thanks for all the advice re. Polyx; I've no doubt that you have spared me from any number of beginners' stuff ups.

Cheers