Thread: Floating shelves.

This is seriously impressive, visually & engineeringly.

How did you use tap on screws to hold it up?

I thought tapcons were for concrete!?

Got me scratching my head [emoji848]

Thanks Graham,

The tapcons are rated for concrete, hollow block and brick. I used them rather than plugs for a number of reasons. They have a higher load capacity, the use a really small hole that's easier to precisely locate and the small hole blows out less of the brick when you're drilling leaving more of it in tact.

Here's the frame that's held onto the wall with 54 tapcons...

Believe me mate, I was nervous as hell. It's really strong though, it easily held my body weight hanging off the boxes.

I'm trying really hard to design without thought for construction at the moment otherwise I never do anything difficult

Hive Bookcase-2.jpg

That is probably the most impressive bit of work I have seen in a very long time x 100

Are the shelves in a dovetailed dado in the boxes and is the mitred shelves fitted with a spline?

Originally Posted by rwbuild

That is probably the most impressive bit of work I have seen in a very long time x 100

Are the shelves in a dovetailed dado in the boxes and is the mitred shelves fitted with a spline?

Thanks mate. Domino's throughout. I was originally going to pull the shelves up to the boxes with screws and plug them to keep the dominos in the groove but it just didn't need it. It's all a very tight fit.

This may give you a bit of an idea.

Brilliant.

Ross

That is fantastic. Such a clean look with no signs of fasteners. How are the shelves etc connect to the angle? Can't see any sign of fasteners, dowels etc from the pictures

Brilliant design & craftsmanship. pker

Love it really well executed
[emoji106][emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Lappa

That is fantastic. Such a clean look with no signs of fasteners. How are the shelves etc connect to the angle? Can't see any sign of fasteners, dowels etc from the pictures

There's 6mm holes drilled in the bottom lip of the shelves to expose the angle and then it's screwed through angle into the shelf. The 6mm hole was then plugged and refinished. That's what I really love about the osmo stuff. It's so easy to do touch ups over the finish you put on in the workshop.

I've used the concealed angle on a few jobs now and it works quite well. Simple to do, cheap.

Very nicely done indeed - looks spectacular

Curious about the choice of finish.....I've been meaning to try the original Polyx oil on furniture for a while, and it seems to be available in a satin matt or matt finish. I've seen it used by another local maker, with excellent results. Where does the Polyx Raw fit into things? Their webpage seems to suggest that it doesn't exaggerate timber colours as much as the original Polyx oil; is that why you used it as the first coat, then overcoat that with the normal Polyx? Any other tricks or lurks to using the Polyx products?

After seeing your photos, I immediately started wondering where I could get some furniture-grade Marri in Sydney !!

Very cunning fastening scheme too - I was thinking that the single shelves might droop a bit being only supported by the concealed angle, but being attached to the "box" sections of shelving with two edges against the wall totally prevents that......

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

Very nicely done indeed - looks spectacular

Curious about the choice of finish.....I've been meaning to try the original Polyx oil on furniture for a while, and it seems to be available in a satin matt or matt finish. I've seen it used by another local maker, with excellent results. Where does the Polyx Raw fit into things? Their webpage seems to suggest that it doesn't exaggerate timber colours as much as the original Polyx oil; is that why you used it as the first coat, then overcoat that with the normal Polyx? Any other tricks or lurks to using the Polyx products?

After seeing your photos, I immediately started wondering where I could get some furniture-grade Marri in Sydney !!

Thanks mate. I use the raw as a first coat on all light timbers. It's the polyx with a white pigment through it. I knocks the yellow down a touch. You can use the raw for both first and second coat for a really Scandinavian look as well. I use a lot of the semi matte polyx. I've had a few problems in the past with water marks on the matte finish but the semi matte is all good.

As for application, it depends on what I'm doing. Usually I apply with a little sponge roller to get even coverage, rub it in with a white nylon pad, wait for 5 mins then rub it out completely with a soft cotton cloth. I rarely sand past 220. For most counter tops I sand to 120 with a random orbit and then hand sand in the direction of the grain to get the swirls out and that's as far as I go before coating.

It's a great product. Their stains are phenomenal as well

Wow - that stain looks awesome. Very creative work indeed

Many thanks for the detailed heads up re. Polyx. I'll give the semi-matt a go; I'm pretty sure that is what Ian Factor uses on his commercial furniture as well.

Now you've set me wondering what rock maple would look like with a couple of coats of the Polyx Raw to whiten and brighten.......might have to get a small sample of that to try as well. I saw a hall table in rock maple once that had been treated with a soap finish to give a ghostly white look, but the soap finish just isn't durable enough for everyday use.

Cheers

Thanks for the run down on the finishing procedure. Not sure what you meant by the white nylon pad though.

Cheers - Peter.