Thread: A George III Mahogany Kneehole Desk

Your gluing of the corner blocks raises something I've wondered about for some time. Purists have argued that it is bad practice to glue blocks with grain at right angles to the elements they are supporting. I've even seen it suggested that blocks be made up of two pieces dovetailed together so that the grain runs in the same direction as the feet they are supporting.
Have you ever seen any practical problems created by the standard practice? In fact, have you ever seen blocks made up of dovetailed pieces?
Cheers,
Jim

I haven't seen or even heard of dovetailed glue blocks!

As a restorer, the problem normally encountered with vertical corner blocks failing is when the feet were water damaged due to damp walls/floors and the glue might have let go on one face – particularly with the rear feet.

One problem I have encountered on a couple of occasions is a corner block splitting away (see the block at the bottom right of the image below – circa 1750), but that's usually due to some ignoramus dragging the furniture rather than lifting it and not as a result of glue failure.

There are frequent examples of contra-glued materials in eighteenth-century furniture and if reasonable care has been exacted, then there are rarely any problems. Damp and abuse are the major factors in damaged furniture.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

I haven't seen or even heard of dovetailed glue blocks!

As a restorer, the problem normally encountered with vertical corner blocks failing is when the feet were water damaged due to damp walls/floors and the glue might have let go on one face – particularly with the rear feet.

One problem I have encountered on a couple of occasions is a corner block splitting away (see the block at the bottom right of the image below – circa 1750), but that's usually due to some ignoramus dragging the furniture rather than lifting it and not as a result of glue failure.

There are frequent examples of contra-glued materials in eighteenth-century furniture and if reasonable care has been exacted, then there are rarely any problems. Damp and abuse are the major factors in damaged furniture.

Thank WW. I did think it was being a bit excessive.
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by Woodwould

I've never heard of nailing glue blocks before and frankly, don't see the point in it.

You are right, of course but I have seen nailed glue blocks and wondered why so.

It might be to do with the fact that you can rub hide glue blocks , let them go and they stay in place. A difficult thing to do with PVA.

Originally Posted by Phil Spencer

AAAHA a 17th century computer desk

Have to trade the laptop for a Pentium 2

Interesting read so far.

The top proper consists of three 3/4" (19mm) thick pine boards glued and rubbed together, which, once dry, was tidied and squared up. I formed the mahogany edge moulding and mitred and glued it around the top's periphery.

The crossbanding for the perimeter of the top was cut from pieces of 5/64" (2mm) thick veneer left over from veneering the carcase.

Crossbanding the top.

The crossbanding was trimmed while the glue was still soft.

The crossbanding completed.

The top will be screwed to the carcase prior to polishing the desk and following that, the tooled hide will be glued onto the bare pine surface.

Ok, you have piqued my curiosity!

Do you use the food dehydrator to dry your veneers?

Originally Posted by KevM

Do you use the food dehydrator to dry your veneers?

Food dehydrator! That's me glue pot!

Originally Posted by Woodwould

Food dehydrator! That's me glue pot!

Or, if the wood looks a little hairy....

Does the crossbanding finish proud of the pine so that the leather will be flush?

Originally Posted by Peter36

Does the crossbanding finish proud of the pine so that the leather will be flush?

Yes it does.

Still enjoying the journey, WW. Off for a few weeks, so looking forward to seeing any progress when I get back.

Cheers

Graeme

The reason for the long break between dispatches is because my efforts have been focused on building a rather large wooden vessel capable of accommodating my family and all manner of other creatures that have recently congregated on a nearby hill. But now that the rains have thankfully receded to the point I can reach my bench in the Lemon Studio wearing just galoshes on my feet, work on the kneehole desk has recommenced.

Drawer construction is the same as for the cabinet on chest (the same period and style), so to spare you the sense of déjà vu, I won't trouble you by repeating the process again here. After cleaning up and ensuring a nice sliding fit in the carcase, the drawer fronts will be rebated to receive cockbeading.

Drawer in the rough.

The escutcheons on this piece are of the flush-mounted 'wire' or 'ribbon' variety: The cast escutcheons are tapped into tight fitting keyholes and then scraped flush with the drawer fronts.

Pairs of drawer stops were rubbed onto the drawer dividers and the drawers were all carefully positioned in their respective openings.

The kneehole desk in-the-white.

The rain is again falling as I type this – it is early winter after all.