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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    1,857

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I'll look forward to seeing the final product, & reading about the ups & downs of the build.....
    I'm sure there will be a few...

    I'm sort of using your desk as a target point for the color and look I want to achieve with the finish. The piece won't really be similar in build, but I think the tone and figuring should be in the same vein, and that should go great with somewhat simple crown and skirt mouldings and bracketed feet.

    This will be the largest piece I've polished. I was planning to use a couple of extra mop coats - likely three or maybe four total - with some rubbing and steel wool in between if necessary to body it up quickly. Another forum member, Flindersia, told me once that he applies three mop coats and then grain fills with pumice before he ever gets the rubber out when working with QLD Maple. I may or may not use some kind of hybrid of the two approaches, but I've never filled the grain with anything other than shellac. I suppose I paid too good of attention when I was being shown how the first time . We'll see...

    I know that the sides of the drawers on the table you now have were some of the easiest polishing boards I've ever done (in my limited experience), so if it builds as well as that Maple then I'm golden. Either way, it's been a while since I had the shellac out, so I'm looking forward to it.

    Cheers,
    Luke

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default Its all a lie!

    I like that Chisel Kerf Derek. Though, as you say, I can see ends being cleaved off like firewood!


    One other thing that has bothered me for a long time, which was raised in another thread, those "left over" dovetail markouts on the drawer sides of the New England Chest by Doucette & Wolfe is a lie!!!

    -- Exhibit 1: https://youtu.be/ZzXwmqxMbxs?t=563
    -- Exhibit 2: https://youtu.be/ZzXwmqxMbxs?t=570
    -- Exhibit 3: New England Chest of Drawers Tiger Maple Tall Chest of Drawers (picture attached)

    You can see in 1&2 that any artefacts are taken off by planing (and what exceptional planing it is too!!!!).... but in the end product (3)... what is this???? Doth mine eyes deceive me!! They are back!

    An artefact left to say "I'm hand made".....

    Its added on! Its a fast-food embellishment! Cabinetry Wank!




    Evan

    markings.JPG

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,093

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    ...... An artefact left to say "I'm hand made".....

    Its added on! Its a fast-food embellishment! Cabinetry Wank!
    Can't help but agree, Evan. Putting scribe lines back after all the joinery is done & dusted is just plain silly..

    I like to make inset drawers a little oversize & plane for the 'perfect' fit, which effectively removes any layout lines. Occasionally, the gremlins stretch my tape or story stick, so they may only need the pins levelled, & little or nothing off the sides (in which case, I have to pray that both drawer & opening have glued-up perfectly square & straight!). Planing for a 'piston fit' isn't really a practical option with lipped drawers (well, you can do some limited planing, as per the video, but much of that looked like the planing equivalent of a rhetorical flourish to me, it certainly wasn't throwing off very obvious shavings), so Luke is going to have to sweat a bucket or two of blood doing his lipped drawers to make sure they are near-perfect at glue-up!

    Whether you remove or leave scribe-lines from drawer-sides is purely a matter of personal taste, there are no compelling reasons to do it either way that I can think of. They are almost never seen, and even more rarely noticed by non-woodworkers, except when the sales person points them out to impress the prospective sucker client. I'll admit I'm obsessive about it, because both my school woodworking teacher and my old cabinet-maker mentor insisted on hiding joinery and layout lines as much as possible. Took me a lot of courage to do my first 'show' through-tenon, and even more to make it more obvious by using a coupe of contrasting wedges. So I've committed the odd a bit of cabinet wankery myself......

    Cheers,
    IW

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    Evan, you can see that he is only partially removing the lines, not completely. Because the act of scribing a line is "cutting", it actually compresses the fibers a little also. If you only partially remove the lines, it looks like a dog's brekky and a mistake because the compression shows up under finish. So you are better off going back and accentuating the lines so it appears deliberate.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Evan, there is a way to score lines without leaving marks behind. It needs to done carefully, as Kuffy points out, even light lines will show up later.

    So, ultra light lines are scored on the outside. Inside go deep as they will not be seen. Mark the dovetails, and then deepen only the baselines where the waste will be removed.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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