I decided to add an additional brace to the rear legs regardless of how much stiffening the shelf might give it, a good move I think as the movement is quite acceptable (or lack of)
I like the way the braces dissappear and appear when viewed from various viewpoints and moving the attachment points back towards the leg itself minimises the visual impact when compared to my earlier brace positioning
added front rear leg.JPGadded front rear leg1.JPG
The shelf is a torsion box again but a little different, I cut angled blocks for the front edge, then fitted the ladders to fit inside, a better method I think, both top and shelf are not quite a full half circle, a segment to be correct so to cut the outer radius I added a bit of scrap to locate the center point
shelf skeleton.JPGcutting the outside radius.JPG
A problem that occours with the ply is that when cutting it splinters quite badly on the exit side of a cutting process (bandsaw/handsaw) especially if unsupported so I utilized some bits and made up a stanley knife blade holder to score a radius on the exit side of the ply, worked quite well, although impovement can be made, a possible use for the cutout from the second stanley blade group buy
marking outer circle with blade.JPGcloseup blade.JPG
A challange I like to set myself is that the intersections of any angled veneer pieces meet at the apex when possible, there are two apexes that will meet with a 4mmx4mm strip that will go around the outer edge, in upholstery they call it piping, this protects the veneer edge and gives a visual line between two surfaces, to achieve this I tackle it in one of two ways, either locate the veneer where I want it relative to the substrate or after the veneer is glued on then relocate the edges/center points of the substrate, (either way there's a bit we cut off after
) so far I have had success locating the veneer relative to the substrate, sorry if this is getting a bit blurby but I like to say a bit about my piccys and the thinking behind my process, I find helps me see if there are better/worse alternatives to my process, also it can generate discussion in the forum
anyway, next I cut a rebate for the piping strip, (means locating the veneer relative to the substrate)
groove cut for front edge strip.JPG
Next I cut some piping strips, first I cut some 5mmish thick slices on the BS from a 25x25mm stick, then thickness sanded to 4ishmm, I setup the saw with a zero clearance insert, although not really an insert as such but I piece of masonite that I bolt to the tee slot in the sliding table, better would have been to have the fingerboards closer to the blade than I set them here, the one fixed to the false fence could have been right over the blade, two fold is to keep the piece from rising up and as a guard, note the splitter I glued into the zero clearance board, this could have been closer to the blade as well, also, note the use of a crosscut blade rather than a rip blade, for thin stock this works well.
cutting 4mm strips.JPGcloseup cutting strips.JPG
Pete
mmm looks like whatever makes the link to the pics work is off in cyberspace somewhere
ARRRRRGGGHHHHH
Fixed the pics
the stars/smoke/grinding noises cleared and a course of action appeared, add a low shelf and add the braces kinda like I was doing before...
, I soon worked it out when the belt shredded and spat the piece out I had fed in
, note to self, hear a tick tick tick hit the e.stop
