Thread: Hardwood fence - Horizontal slats - Jarrah?

Originally Posted by silentC

I think the spans are similar to what you're proposing, maybe closer to 1.8, but they have used thicker boards, looks like 140 x 30mm decking.

Capping protects the end grain of palings, it is not structural usually. You don't have any exposed end grain, so it would be purely aesthetic in your situation. I think it would probably detract from the look you are trying to achieve.


I always get it with a stain because it will even up the colour variation in the boards and it protects the finish from UV longer, so you get more life out of it. The only downside is that it looks a bit ordinary if you let it go because the stain will wear away in places and not in others. But you won't let your fence go as long as I've let my decks go, will you?

Cheers. If I can find 30mm thick Jarrah boards at a reasonable price I'll use them, but I'm not sure that I will.

I'll leave the capping. I wasn't sure about the clear vs stain oil, but I'm leaning towards the stain, mostly for the reasons that you mention.

Originally Posted by orraloon

I would avoid the water based stain. It is more like paint so a real pain to maintain later on. I did my barbie table with it and now wish I had not done it. Going to have to sand it right back now. The real advantage of oil based deck oil is how eazy it is to tuch up scratches and things later on. A year down the track it is scrub then wipe over with the oil again.
Regards
John

Interesting. I didn't know that maintenance was any different. I'll look into this. Thanks

Originally Posted by silentC

If you sit the droppers on the ground, maybe with a gal stirrup, then your chances of noticeable sag will be greatly reduced.

I'll think about this. I started out with the intention of minimal impact to the existing slab (for reasons which I won't go into). I'm now digging out 5 holes, so I guess another 3 or 4 dynabolts or chemset threads is not such a big deal.

Out of curiosity, are there any other options rather than drilling into the concrete? e.g. dropper anchored on a small wooden base with a heavy pot plant or something? Sorry if this sounds stupid

Thanks everyone for your tips.

If you're looking for a modern design, why don't you use steel posts? A 10" hole is HUGE and will be very obvious. It is not a structural footing, so I reckon you're overdoing it with such footings. If it wasn't likely to have major pressure, you could get a footing racket made up so that you can simply Dynabolt to the concrete.

If you use steel, you could get c or h section and drop the boards in with suitable spacers. Get them out of stainless or powdercoat them to a suitable colour.

I've made a deck with 27mm spotted gum. It hasn't cupped a bit. My previous deck, with 19mm boards of the same timber cupped a lot more. So look for thicker timber. I'd do it every time. 130mm boards @19mm will cup for sure.

If the fence is going to be visible from both sides, I'd alternate them on each side, overlapping them by 25% each time. Otherwise someone get the 'back' which looks crap.

Trav

Originally Posted by Trav

If you're looking for a modern design, why don't you use steel posts? A 10" hole is HUGE and will be very obvious. It is not a structural footing, so I reckon you're overdoing it with such footings. If it wasn't likely to have major pressure, you could get a footing racket made up so that you can simply Dynabolt to the concrete.

I've thought of steel posts, but I don't really like them, and they won't really work for my scenario. And dynabolting/chemsetting was the original plan, but I've been convinced that the lateral forces on a 6ft solid fence may be too much for a 4" slab (especially one that is already cracked in places where I need to put a post).

Final question (I promise).....

I was going to use Cypress 'Gold' posts, but for various reasons (mostly cost), I'm considering just using the rough sawn cypress posts that are available where I'm getting the Jarrah from. I believe this will be unseasoned, but it doesn't look like cypress shrinks much anyway.

Should I pay the extra for Cypress 'gold' (probably around $200 more for the posts plus gate frame), or just go for the rough sawn? The jarrah has turned out much more expensive than what it originally was, so I want to save money, but if I'm going to the effort of cutting and filling in concrete, I don't want to have tor redo it in 5 years because the cypress has shrunk, leaving a rain gap, or has rotted due to inferior quality.

EDIT: Never mind, I've decided that I'm probably overthinking this, and am just going for the cheaper option.

Smoky

can I ask why you need to build this privacy screen?
is it to shield you or the neighbours?

if the ground is polished concrete, I'm thinking almost anything in timber, especially Cypress, will look very tatty in a fairly short time.

If you're looking for something a little upmarket from Colourbond I suggest powder coated steel posts and 15mm fibre cement (1800 x 900) sheeting. A little time with an ROS and a decent abrasive will polish the side that will face you.

I would go for the manafactured decking (not sure of the name) you will get the colour for life ,no capping,and no maintenance.
Sure it will cost more but the time and cost over the years,ie sanding back and repainting should make it cheaper.
This can also be fixed without visible nails through the face.

Originally Posted by nrb

I would go for the manafactured decking (not sure of the name) you will get the colour for life ,no capping,and no maintenance.
Sure it will cost more but the time and cost over the years,ie sanding back and repainting should make it cheaper.
This can also be fixed without visible nails through the face.

Carpenter/Builder doing some fencing at a place I was working and we talked about these as he was using them for fencing. Main problem he had was allowing for lateral growth as apparently they move in both directions with temperature. He quoted havving to allow a centimetre a metre allowance which can be allowed for in flat decking or vertical fencing but horizontal between posts seems to me a guarantee for bowing and failure.

Neil

This post is quite old so I hope someone sees this. I am planning a very similar project with using jarrah boards at 130x20mm and somewhere between 700mm to 970mm wide. The largest fence is 2.3m wide with a central post to screw down to and maintain stability (max~about 1.5m on this). I am doing roughly 6 gates. I am planning of finishing with CUTEK EXTREME and have no issues with restaining it every 6-12months. I live in Perth an plan on installing this in the winter so should be at its highest moisture content. I want to have the smallest possible gaps between each horizontal jarrah board as well as between the side of the board (end grain) and the steel post (see pictures). What do you think the smallest gaps are that I can get away with to prevent the wood pinching each other or agains the steel frame? How many screws should I use per board as concerned about cupping- can I get away with two screws in the middle of each end of the board into the steel posts (allow equal expansion/contraction) or should I put 4 screws (one in each corner) as I thought this might reduce cupping but will this be the case? and will I then be risking problem when the wood tries to expand across the width of the board.
Steel support frame dimensions.jpgPool Equipment - Fence.jpgSide Gate - Back left.jpgPool Gate.jpg