Thread: Help needed deciding where to drill holes in garage brick walls for huge timber shlvs

Unless the mortar is crumbling away now you won't have a problem. Share the load along the wall as best you can using multiple fasteners in your vertical supports and use 10 or 12g TIMBER (not chipboard) screws into decent quality wall plugs (Ramset are acceptable) fitted into the bricks not the mortar. Make sure the head of the plug is flush with the wall or even slightly recessed. Don't use that awful spaghetti crap.

I'd be inclined to say the same thing as Chief, use some quality hardware such as dynabolts etc, however I'd still proceed with caution, and be very hesitant to load the rack up too much. If you're a DIYer you may not run into any issues but don't bank on storing long slabs of solid jarrah. I'd also keep a very keen eye on it once erected and loaded. If you notice stress fractures unload it fast.

Having said that if you happen to know someone who's a structural engineer/builder I'd give them a call for a more professional evaluation, the last thing you want is for your house to come down. I'd also consult your insurance PDS to ensure you have adequate cover in the event it does come down.

Be careful using a hammer drill when drilling for fasteners with old bricks. If you drill too deep you can blow the back of the brick out My house was built 1916 and uses common bricks and lime mortar and I had that problem when using dyna bolts for kitchen cupboards. After the first disaster and subsequent seeking of professional help, i was told if the brick appeared softish, to drill a maximum of 40mm into the brick with a hammer drill then use non hammer mode if you needed to go deeper or drill non hammer all the way.

Use dynabolts into brick (not the mortar). Install one of the proposed brackets, and see if it takes your weight by hanging off it.

If the bracket takes your weight without any drama, then install the other brackets and do the same weight test to each one.

Extrapolate your weight x the total number of brackets for a rough estimate of how much the combined shelving will take.

Wow gents!
Thanks so much!
Always feel better getting advice

Interesting read (12 years old):
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f81/mortar-brick-8017



And what about Chemsets Or ankascrews?

Can you fix some studs from floor to the exposed roof trusses ? Nice centres, easily attached with a batten screw at the top and no worries about the bricks.

That would be my preferred method.

The very first pic shows I'e attempted this in the past.

But they were just screwed in intended to be temporary.

Nothing I've found so far would support this as needed for a heavy load.

IMG_5151.jpg IMG_5152.jpg IMG_5153.jpg IMG_5154.jpg

Two screws at the top.
To keep everything upright.

And wedged into a sloping garage floor.
To support all the weight.

I just tested it and its rock solid.
But that might be just the weight of the item stored on the supported shelves.
Strengthened by the 3d H pattern of the structure.

i.e. not bolted into the concrete floor.

I was trying to figure out a way to use both.

i.e. French cleat to floating supporting rails horizontally.
And allow the shelves to support themselves like a window air conditioner in the old days.

For older brick wall, the way to do it is to lay the full length studs from the floor to the ceiling, rather than hang your vertical supports directly off the brick wall. That way, the weight that the shelves carry will be supported by the studs and not the wall. The fasteners to the wall will only have one job to do, that is to stop the shelves tilt over. For fasteners, I recommend using ankascrews. 8 x 100 should do the job. 3 screws per studs, one located at about 300 below the ceiling and one at 1200 off the floor. You can have the 3rd ankascrew at about 300 off the floor. You now can screws your verticals directly to the studs. By the way, using these multi construction bits, you can drill through the wood and straight into the wall. They are the sharpest carbide bits that I've come across.
These are the timber racks that you can use.

Alternatively, you can get some Triton timber racks. They are very good as well. Just mount them on studs instead of directly on brick walls.

Brilliant! Thanks for the exacts.
Much appreciated.

I'm thinking the studs are 45 x 90.

I was also thinking the 45 is against the wall.
And drilling thru the 90 into the brick.
So would need longer bolts.


Sorry forgot to mention I've just measured.
The ceiling battens are 36mm x 90mm.
my worry is the same.
i.e. that the thin ceiling battens won't hold the weight by themselves.

LOL.
I've purchased the Triton racks 4 times and sold them for lack of confidence.
they are $80 now.
I'll just use the up-cycled timber from the previous shelves.

Yes that vid is exactly what I want to do.
But drilling into 100YO brick was the original query.

My timber rack consists of many large cypress posts sat down hard on the concrete floor and then fixed to a single brick wall with half inch Loxons (I'm not a fan of Dynabolts). Holes were drilled into the posts at a bit less than 90 degrees, and lengths of thick walled steel pipe about 400 long inserted into the holes. The angle of the drill holes gives the pipes a bit of upward rake, so they're safe for timber to sit across. Drill the holes at 200-ish intervals along a full post length and you have a very configurable system at low cost.

I've had this is place for 10+ years with no dramas. Most of the weight is bearing on the bottom of the posts so you don't have to worry about the shear load on the bricks.

I've got too much timber lying around to justify the purchase of steel pipe.
But I do like the idea.

Was just looking at the Loxins.
they seem very short compared to the dynabolts.

the 1/2 inch to me would just tear out.

45 x 90 studs should be fine. I don't think you can get 8 x 120 ankascrews. you'll have to go up to 10 x 120.
Make sure you use sharp carbide bits, not POS stuff that does more massaging than drilling. With those multi construction bits, you will have no problems drilling into bricks (not mortar which is not strong enough)
I like ankascrews better than dynabolt because (1) you can remove them (2) people tend to drill oversize holes for dynabolts which weakens the fasteners. BTW dont forget to clean the holes with compressed air after drilling before using either.

Brilliant!
Thanks for all the tips.
Much appreciated.

I'm thinking the 10 x 120 ankascrews would need the 8 x 120 drill bit?

Originally Posted by barrysumpter

I'm thinking the 10 x 120 ankascrews would need the 8 x 120 drill bit?

To use 10mm ankascrews, you'll need to use a 10mm bit for drilling.