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  1. #16
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    Nov 2012
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    I'd say sanding or scraping is a better bet than planing.

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  3. #17
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    Oct 2017
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    Sydney
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    Ok, so I spent a good amount of time sharpening the blade and putting a 50degree secondary bevel. It worked a treat thanks@DerekCohen.

    Question now is what is the downside of leaving the 50 degree secondary bevel on my LN smoother?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Pach, I would leave the 50 degree bevel on there permanently. After all, it is a smoother.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    5,105

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    Quote Originally Posted by pach View Post
    Ok, so I spent a good amount of time sharpening the blade and putting a 50degree secondary bevel. It worked a treat thanks@DerekCohen.

    Question now is what is the downside of leaving the 50 degree secondary bevel on my LN smoother?

    Hi Pach

    The downside of having a steeper pitch on your plane blade is that it takes marginally more effort to push the plane compared to one with a shallower pitch. This is quickly offset by the superior, smoother surfaces achieved in the harder, contankerous Australian hardwoods.

    By way of reference, the doyen of Australian plane making, Terry Gordon, actually uses a pitch of 60° on his smoothers. The are designed specifically for Oz hardwoods.
    https://hntgordon.com.au/collections...moothing-plane

    Suggest that you follow Derek's advice.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    148

    Default

    Great news. I will leave it at that. Thanks for the advise, much appreciated.

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