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  1. #1
    rogerjenkins Guest

    Default Helpful advice please

    I have a problem;- Client has come to me and asked me to make a Home Bar base for him,- which I am not keen on doing without some helpful advice from you guys, as am out of my depth. ( All the regular carpenters round here have apparently put the client's job in the, " too hard basket. " so he came to me )
    Description;- Basic Construction,- Very old rustic 100 x 100 x 1200mm Jarrah posts at each corner to support a heavy Red Gum top, with old recycled Mini-Orb cladding across the front and both ends. Client wants the old Jarrah posts to be an exposed feature at each corner of the bar.
    Base dimensions,- 800mm. wide x 2 Metres Long x 1200mm.High. Client has supplied me with the Jarrah Posts already cut to lenght, and has purchased the Red Gum Slab for the top.
    Question;- How do I go about constructing a suitable frame that is strong enough to support the red gum top, plus designed in such a way that the Rustic Jarrah Posts are exposed at each corner ?
    You helpful advice welcome, maybe even some rough sketches too via this thread.
    Roger

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    1200 high, without including the thickness of the slab? Wow! That bloke must be tall!

    Do you need to incorporate shelving in the design?
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    287

    Default

    I'd first mock it up at 1200 high and see if he really wants it that high!
    How thick is the slab?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Peakhurst
    Age
    67
    Posts
    1,173

    Default

    Roger,

    From your description it looks like your client wants a 1200mm high table clad on three sides. Am I right? If I am just search around for table designs and modify accordingly. 100x100 jarrah posts will support the slab on the ends just have to size the rails to ensure it doesn't bow.

  6. #5
    rogerjenkins Guest

    Default

    Skew,- Yes, He's a," BIG BOY !! " I am a tad under six ft, and I had to look up to him when he carried all Four lenghts of jarrah into my workshop. That's right,- Carried all four x 1200mm. lenghts of Jarrah all by himself

    The Bleeder;- That's correct mate.

    Am going to sketch up a basic plan to show to the guy when he calls in again next week.
    Now I NEED you advice here,- What depth, or thickness should the main longitude rails be ? I am thinking of a lenght of 150 x 50 ( 6" x 2" ) for each main longitude rail. Would this do, or would it pay to go for something heavier,- maybe 170 x 50, or even 190 x 50 ??
    Or, do you think it would pay to have a third, " Hidden," support leg in the center of both sides, ( like a six-leg table design ), with the middle pair of legs out of sight behind the main frame ?
    Have built a table or two over the years,- but nothing ever like this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Another question;- How do I attach the rails to very old, hard Jarrah without wrecking my woodworking tools, which are of the general-purpose handyman variety ?

    *** I can understand why the local specialist cabinetmaker sent the guy round to me
    Roger

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bathurst NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    530

    Default

    [QUOTE=rogerjenkins;1336611]Skew,- Yes, He's a," BIG BOY !! " I am a tad under six ft, and I had to look up to him when he carried all Four lenghts of jarrah into my workshop. That's right,- Carried all four x 1200mm. lenghts of Jarrah all by himself

    At that rate you shouldn't have to worry about delivery....he can probably just hoist it on his back and carry away

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,360

    Default

    I'd try to avoid the need for making the rails try to bear the weight of the slab; their task should basically be to just hold the legs the correct distance apart! Along with the secondary function of giving you something to screw the mini-orb to.

    Personally I would ask him if he would mind that extra pair of "hidden" legs in the middle. (Actually, I'd prefer to put two sets in at approx 700mm spacings!)

    But if he wants the back space without any legs/dividers in the way (he gonna sleep under it? ) then you have no real option but to look at heavy rails I guess.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    60
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Another thing to think about is whether or not the recycled mini-orb has screw holes in it already. If it does, this will give you the heights for the stretchers so you can re-fix the mini-orb without creating a 'war zone' effect across the front and sides. Then again, being rustic, maybe that would be a good thing. Best to ask the client what is okay in that regard.
    You may or may not wish to tell your client that almost all 'bush' bars had/have full-sized custom-orb (aka corrugated) because it was generally left overs from building the shearing shed, after they worked out it was a good idea to yard the sheep under it in case of rain.
    That mini-orb stuff is modern-industrial trendyism and should be avoided by real men.
    Plus, normal corri is easier to cut cross-wise with tin-snips.
    Multi cuts with a circular saw to cut the shoulders for the stretchers will do your chisels a big favor with regard to saving your tools.
    Let us know what the client says and how it all goes.

    Tom
    Little by little the night turns around

  10. #9
    rogerjenkins Guest

    Default

    Drew up a quick sketch of the project, & presented it to my client who has approved it. I have included the two," hidden," support legs behind the Mini-Orb, plus two more along the rear, at 700mm.spacings. He is quite happy about that idea. Client's Ok'd a bottom shelf too, which help improve stability. The bar fridge he already has,- and is too high to fit underneath. Only have the framework to make, and attach the Jarrah Legs to. He is doing all the rest,- including adding the 100 year old, Mini-Orb to the front, and both sides. ( Quite happy about that,- He's got THAT headache,- not me ) Apparently the client, and a mate of his are currently , " having fun, " sanding the red-gum slab level. He said he's getting there slowly!! Client also noticed the Lazy Kanga Intarsia pattern I am having a go at, ( from Steve Bundred's Book, " Intarsia Down Under ),- and, he wants to see the finished article too with the intention of either buying the one I am making, or getting me to make a Lazy Kanga for him, ( Kanga is lying in a deck-chair, pouring itself a glass of beer ) Quite happy about THAT too,- extra Dollars I didn't expect to get in my pocket
    Gunna take some pics,- providing I remember to for,( A ) my own record, plus, ( B ), put on this thread,- that's providing I remember to have the camera, with fully charged batteries in the workshop. Usually I do the project first, then think about the pics afterwards
    Roger

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