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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Default How to make a Hooked Mitre

    I want to make something that involves a joint called a hooked mitre. I can't find much about how to make this joint or indeed what the key idea of it is.

    Is the idea that as the mitred together pieces shrink the hook pulls them together? In that case the angle of the inside of the hook should have a slightly acute angle so that they don't slip apart. Should the two halves of the mitre's internal face (either side of the hook) be parallel but offset? I suspect not, that could make cutting the joint harder, but if they aren't parallel there is a different difficulty.

    Is there some material (video, book, blog) that explains making this joint?

    Here is one reference:

    https://books.google.com.au/books?id...0miter&f=false

    Here is a video with a picture of part of one:

    https://youtu.be/IqvKGKzOwFA?t=324


    Greg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
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    76
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    Default

    I can't thank you enough for the video link which opened my eyes to Chinese joinery. I have now ordered a book from Amazon called Chinese Domestic Furniture in Photographs and Measured Drawings written in the 1940s by Gustav Ecke. I think there may be some drawings of various joints on the Woodworkers Institute. The best joints look difficult to make but the practice looks like fun.

    mick

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Wollongong
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    Default

    Mick,
    The Gustav Ecke book is the Google books link. I wouldn't say its really well organised (the figures aren't quite in numerical order for example), but there is enough detail to see how things more or less hang together and what the proportions are. This might be another interesting thing to look at, the bench style is fairly common: https://hillbillydaiku.com/2015/02/0...ch-progress-1/

    I kind of like this guy too, not exactly high finesse woodworking, but engaging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxYqjDsylr4

    I'm starting to suspect that hooked mitres are too obscure for an answer and I'll have to experiment. Its reminding me of my relationship to the people in the Bunnings tool department who I recently realised no-longer ask me if there is anything I am looking for. "You don't happen to have a DIN 1810 form b pin wrench do you? No? Thats a pity, any idea where I might get one? Oh well...".

    Greg

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

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    Greg
    the hooked mitre joint looks relatively straight forward to layout and cut by hand. Three saw cuts and you'd be done. Then use the cut side to layout the other side.
    However, when using one, I'd be a little bit concerned about the short grain in the hook.
    I'm less sure how you would go about cutting one using machine tools.

    In principle, the joint appears to be a variant of a scarf joint.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #5
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    Apr 2009
    Location
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    Default

    Ian,
    I'll be cutting it by hand with a fine saw, so making the cuts isn't the worry, but I'm not sure about the angles or what the joint is trying to achieve. Its not a high strength joint, there appears to be little strength in it at all. If the hook is intended to keep the joint closed as the timber moves that actually requires a degree of flex in the timber, which in turn constrains the way that it is attached to the table top (in the Gustav Ecke example), but then we are back to that quite short grain in the hook.

    Greg

  7. #6
    Join Date
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    looking at the Ecke book, it looks to me that the joint is a form of scarf joint intended to hold two wide thinnish pieces together at 90 degrees so that the apron can extend down the legs.
    a modern maker might just spline the joint or lock it together at the rear with dovetail keys
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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