Thread: Jarrah Dining Table - WIP

Thanks for this thread: I'm thinking of making a dining table using a similar design so it's great to see some real-world pictures. You mention potential problems with table-top warping that you avoided by quickly attaching it to the frame: now I work a LOT slower than you so I wonder what additional work I will in for!

I'm currently practicing on a small bedside table: what are the main differences moving up in scale when making something of this size?

I don't have a thicknesser/jointer: I found Anagote timbers who dressed my blackwood very nicely so that I simply had to cut it and glue it together...I'm hoping to use the same process for my dining table.

For the legs, did you laminate pieces together or can you easily get stock that thickness?

Tony

Hi Tony,

I had some problems before with warping on a coffee table. I then asked and received good advice on this forum. There appears to be two opportunities for unfavourable wood movement to occur during the process. One is during the glue-up and the other is after the clamps are released and before the top is fixed into position.

I guess if you are building a dining table it would be ideal if you could use some form of cauls to press the pieces flat while being clamped. Careful clamping can also minimise cupping but I think its better to stack the odds in your favour.

The problem I found in the past, and others will undoubtedly have their own experiences, is that where a glue-up went well, the top might then bow after the clamps were released. This appears to be due to the humidity being absorbed at different rates by the the boards and top/bottom of the panel. To combat this, I first kept the boards in the garage where I would do the glue up and assemble the table. I was hoping the timber would acclimatise to the conditions so that there would be no surprises afterwards. I have no idea of how effective this is but it was no hassle to do so. The next step was to keep the cauls tight until I was ready to attach the top to the table. I loosened the side clamping force after a day or so to allow sideways wood movement.

The only time the table top was not mechanically held flat was while I was flattening the underside and doing the final trimming cuts. Before I started anything on the topside, including removing the excess glue, the table top was fixed in place to the frame. This does force you to think ahead and I had pre-sanded the entire frame to 320g. I should have applied some finish to the hard to get places as well. Next time........

I think doing it this way meant I was more organised and it cut out much of the frigging around I would ordinarily do in between tasks. Consequently the whole process went a bit quicker. Mind you, the belt sander with sanding frame sped things up considerably.

In terms of moving up in scale from a smaller table, the major issue is handling bigger, heavier timber. Since you won't be do the machining yourself, that is a fair bit of effort saved. And of course the stresses on a dining table are greater so strong joints are a must.


For the legs, I used solid pieces, not laminated. New dry Jarrah is not easy to get new in that size but I found a local wood yard that did this. There are also second hand wood suppliers who could have supplied them.

Great table TPI

Yeah you have done some very good work with this and so by what I read have thought of this in advance.

Great work TP1.....I have also picked up a few tips while reading this for the top of the bar im about to pursue. Thanks for making this thread

Hi TP1,

Any pics with the final finish on or aren't you there yet?

That's a good lookinh table TPI with some nice figure in the top. Should look great with the finish applied.

I'm nearly there.

I sanded the finish to 320 then wet the surface with a sponge to raise the grain. Sanded back and applied Wattyl Sanding sealer. Sanded that off and applied wipe on poly. I left it for a few days and decided it was applied a bit too thick for what I was trying to achieve and sanded it back and reapplied WOP.

The final stage is to reduce the full gloss to a nice sheen and rub the surface to develop the lustre and feel. Hopefully this should be finished tomorrow or Friday and I will post more pics then.

Progress to date:

I did gloss WOP then final 2 coats of satin. The finish was smooth and even enough but I didn't like how it made the Jarrah look. Sanded back and applied Gloss again. Here are the pics.

The table top came out very flat indeed ( see pic 2) so finishing with higher gloss will be possible. By some quirk of fate, there is little to no dust on the table even though I applied the WOP in the Garage. I think its due to my proximity to the ocean and the gentle sea breezes that have been coming in have kept the ambient air dust free.

Beautiful result

IMHO the gloss works very well on your table probably the deep colour of the Jarrah but then any finish would look good on the great job you did of the surface..

Wow - very nicely done mate.

Looking forward to seeing the overall table finished up !

great work TP looks very nice.

Beautiful!!!

Rob

Great finish - Great table