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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Perth WA
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    Well this photo is of the final cut back (hopefully) which I did this afternoon and then on Friday I'll do the final spray (again hopefully) , I think it'll be about the tenth spray (I've lost count). But I do know that I've cut it back to bare timber twice in an endevour to fill all the minor imperfections that are only revealled when a clear laquer is applied to timber. So with the next spray, being the last (hopefully) it will have the finish I want with that being like a sheet of glass.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

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    Waiting.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,181

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    Can't wait to see the glass look top.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Well its finished. I had to do two final sprays, I opened a new tin of laquer and I thought I gave it a good stir but on spraying I was getting white flecks in the spray and after it dried the surface felt like sandpaper so it required another cut back and spray. However before doing that I knew I need to sieve the laquer using something better than flywire so it was a quick trip to the local automotive paint shop to get some 190 micron strainers, what a difference they made and the gunk they collected was nu-real, so then I did the second final spray.

    The laquer I used was Wyatll Stywood 30. I spray out in the open air. Perth's weather over the last few weeks with heat and strong winds has not been very favorable for open air spraying.

    The 6mm toughened glass top arrived today so now the table is finished. So here's some pictures of the completed job including the old table and chairs that have served us since 1972.

    I'm not making the chairs. We went and order six Domayne chairs made by Jamel this arvo.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default

    Rod, do you have any room for expansion or contraction in the screw holes etc that hold your table top on? Looks great realy lovely job.
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  7. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

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    Very nice job
    a great looking table

    not sure why you wanted to replace the old suite

    I notice on your table top to base clamping arrangement you haven't allowed for any movement of the top - have I missed something?

    addendum
    looks like my drafting took place while CH posted
    Last edited by Sawdust Maker; 18th February 2011 at 11:00 PM. Reason: addendum
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Yep, a great looking table Rod!!!

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
    Posts
    1,327

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    Been waiting to see the finished table .Very good.
    Like CH , I was also wondering about the screw holes and movement
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,181

    Default

    Beautiful job Rod.

    Cheers
    Pops

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Otautahi , Te Wa'hi Pounamu ( The Mainland) , NZ
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,114

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    Exquisite table Rod , top marks all round

    all except the metal bracket system I reckon
    wooden buttons let into the rails be better for movement.
    Look nicer too , more in keeping with the classical style of the table

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    2,035

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    Thanks All.

    The main reason I used the angle iron to fix the table to is, on each end of the table they started to bow up and this bowing is basically with in the first 200mm of each end which is the same width of the underside end edge thickning of the table. The bowing, and its only on the very ends (everywhere else is fine with a tendancy of a slight rise), up was about 6mm deep across its 1m width. This happened after everything was glued and screwed and sealed on both sides. All the timber had been kept in dry stroage for at least 10 years and to use was planed true and square.

    How am I going to fix this? I thought that the timber buttons (if that what there called) or the pressed metal thingies that need slots cut into the rails would not suffice as to pull the top down flat, which would require a fair amount of pulling down pressure, I would probably end up splitting/breaking these slots in the timber rails. So I opted to use angle iron. I placed a 3mm thick x 200mm long packing strip between the underside of the table and the top of the rail to counter act the bow as the screws pulled the top flat.

    I did think about the timber movement but didn't take any steps like elongating the holes in the angle iron to allow for movement, but the holes are slightly larger than the screws.

    My main concern was in pulling the top flat was/will I get cracking on/of the table top joints or splitting anywhere else. I spose time will tell.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    87
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    1,327

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    With all the work you have put into this table it would be terrible to see splits develop in the top . It would be worthwhile elongating the slots in the crosswise rails ' The three center holes could be just enlarged .If it was mine I would elongate the holes.
    I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan

  14. #43
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter36 View Post
    With all the work you have put into this table it would be terrible to see splits develop in the top . It would be worthwhile elongating the slots in the crosswise rails ' The three center holes could be just enlarged .If it was mine I would elongate the holes.
    I'd do the same and agree with Peter's sentiments
    I'd elongate the outside holes

    PS it would be a shame to have it expand a bit and wreck the joinery on the end skirts and legs
    Last edited by Sawdust Maker; 20th February 2011 at 06:26 PM. Reason: add PS
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    Very nice table.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Default

    The finished setting

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