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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Redland Bay - Brisbane
    Posts
    70

    Default To join or not join a kitchen bench top ?

    Laying out the timber for the kitchen bench tops and how to do the cook top and sink benches.

    Looking at using 220 x 35 blackbutt - the sink bench is 2800 LOA with the sink being 1230long and 1130 from left end and 530 from right end.

    Choice is to use full length front & rear with deep cutouts for sink or make as 3 separate sections ? 3 sections is easier but has narrow f & rear sections to support and waterproof at joins as well as edges. Other option is to just one join at left end of sink so cutouts are on shorter pieces ???

    Cooktop is similar issue with 300 to right and 900 to left

    Any advice / suggestions appreciated .

    Also looking at either Sellys Exterior PVA or Titebond Exterior with biscuits.

    Thanks

    Richard

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    I am assuming that your benchtops are wider than a single blackbutt board, so you have to laminate boards to achieve your finished widths. I also assume that there is a reasonable amount of timber in front of and behind cutouts.

    Given that, I suggest that you approach it in the same way as you would to allow for inset draw fronts in the apron of a table.

    Lay out the boards as a simulated benchtop for best appearance, grain match and structure etc, and mark a pair of cabinet makers triangles on the layout, preferably completely clear of of the cutout locations.

    Mark out the cutouts as specified.

    Take the front and back boards and rip them so they each provide a full length rail for the front and back edges.

    Then cut the central boards to length to provide the central end portions.

    Laminate the whole set into a single benchtop using the cabinet makers triangles to establish alignment, giving a once piece benchtop with the cutouts incorporated. The whole can then be sanded and finished before final installation ensuring that the cutouts and bench ends are well sealed before installation. I am thinking commercial finishing here to ensure totally dust free envionment and a flaw free finish.

    Another option is to lam the benchtops as a one piece solid, then mark the cutout and cut it out with a jigsaw, then finish the surfaces.

    I am not keen on doing the tops as two full width end pieces and two fillers at front and back of opening as I anticipate issues with sealing the joints, and keeping the joints flush over the time that the top will be in place. I am also not keen on cutting the openings into a pre finished top then going back to seal the edges of the cutout, due to the possibility of damaging the pre finished surface and finish compatability when you attempt to seal the cutout edges.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Redland Bay - Brisbane
    Posts
    70

    Default

    Thanks Melb - I had originally intended to laminate three full length pieces and then do the cut out but the weight would be pretty high and at 2800 for the sink bench, also difficult to man handle.

    The suggestion to mark then cut as required will reduce weight a bit earlier in the job so is an attractive approach and a bit easier to seal every face.

    Thanks for the input - working on a couple of 1600 x 300 x 50 blackbutt pieces at the moment for a feature stub wall capping and waterfall end to build up my muscles & confidence before the kitchen benches.


    Thanks - Richard

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Coffs Coast
    Posts
    141

    Default

    Do not use the selleys glue. I did a mates benchtops in sellys and the glue raised during oiling and left a ridgy dissapointing top. I did a later titebond trial to see if the glue was the problem. It certainly was! No more sellys for me - ever!

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