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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    935

    Post Juniper slab coffee table help

    This table was initially designed to sit on a tile floor and it does that quite well. It's taken me long enough to finish it that things have changed and it now has to sit on a somewhat thick carpet with 10mm underlay. It sits on the carpet ok until some weight is placed along the long edges, then it tends to roll towards the side being pressed down (see the black arrows in the table legs photo). It's not completely unstable and rolling over, it just depresses a centimetre or so then stops. Is there any way I can stop this motion on carpet? It doesn't happen at all on a hard floor. I was thinking of trying a self leveling foot at the tip of each leg (something like this). It'll change the look more than I'd like, if it even works, so any other ideas would be appreciated. I'm hoping I'm missing an obvious solution.

    Second cry for help is the top - I've used white shellac (Ubeaut no less!) and brushed on 7 coats so it is quite thick. I did sand the last few coats to try to ensure that the final coat was as level as possible. There are some imperfections on the surface so I'm giving it a few weeks to dry before I try rubbing it out with 240, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, grit wet and dry papers, then applying traditional wax with 0000 steel wool and buffing out. Is there anything I should be taking into consideration when attempting to rub out a dewaxed white shellac finish?
    The legs just got sanded to 240, sanding sealer applied, sanded again to 240, 3 coats of white shellac, then cut with 0000 steel wool, then waxed and buffed and came out looking great (to my newbie eyes anyway).


    table legs.jpgtable overhead.jpgtable top.jpg
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Montmorency Victoria
    Posts
    554

    Default

    Hi A
    Nice piece ......

    Rob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,743

    Default

    Unless you want to put narrow stabilising pins (think nails) on the feet (to go down through the carpet to the solid floor below) and risk ruining the carpet - stabilising feet, or matching timber shims, appear to be the only option I can see.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Montmorency Victoria
    Posts
    554

    Default

    Oh and BTW ... have you considered going back to resand at something finer than 240 grit?

    With 3 coats already I would be doing a very very light pass with a card scraper and 2000 grit,

    Rob

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,886

    Default

    Its a nice looking table but the real stability issue is the shortness of the cross leg and the heavy top. When the center of gravity goes beyond the supporting base then over it goes. The C of G will be high up and the uneven soft carpet allows enough list for the C of G to go beyond the support of the cross leg. The self leveling feet will do nothing to improve the situation. In fact raising the height will even make it worse. Sorry to say but the only 2 ways to fix that I can see are a longer cross leg or screw it to the floor.
    Regards
    John

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    935

    Default

    Thanks for the input guys - I should've stayed in my old house just for this table

    Tahlee - yes I was wondering today why I was thinking of starting at 240 grit again, the finish is level so 400 or so seems like a much better starting point.

    Orraloon and cava - I think it'll be back to the drawing board for the legs, I really didn't want to use metal tubing or hairpin legs and looking at the store bought feet, well, they really don't do it for me. Now that the anguish of a failed design has passed, I'm ready to make changes! Fortunately the top attaches to the legs with 4 dowels, so I can possibly re use the leg assembly with a lighter and thinner top.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Default

    Gorgeous table!!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,886

    Default

    You could glue & screw 19mm shims to act as feet to the four ends of the cross just extending out past the ends a bit. Give it a larger footprint so to speak. That middle cross leg needs to extend to the width of the top to be stable. With the feet proud of the cross legs it will also be better able to handle any unevenness in the floor surface. In a matching wood it should look like was meant to be there all along and not change the overall look of the table which has quite a pleasing look to it.
    Regards
    John

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    This table was initially designed to sit on a tile floor and it does that quite well. It's taken me long enough to finish it that things have changed and it now has to sit on a somewhat thick carpet with 10mm underlay. It sits on the carpet ok until some weight is placed along the long edges, then it tends to roll towards the side being pressed down (see the black arrows in the table legs photo). It's not completely unstable and rolling over, it just depresses a centimetre or so then stops. Is there any way I can stop this motion on carpet? It doesn't happen at all on a hard floor. I was thinking of trying a self leveling foot at the tip of each leg (something like this). It'll change the look more than I'd like, if it even works, so any other ideas would be appreciated. I'm hoping I'm missing an obvious solution.

    table legs.jpg
    I think the obvious solution is Audio Spikes, which are designed to hold audio speakers just above the level of the carpet.

    or
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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